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Old 09-22-2010, 10:36 PM   #1
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94 Jeep wrangler issues?

Hello I'm new here and I have a couple questions. I'm looking at a friends 94 Jeep wrangler 4.0L 6cyl 5spd and was wondering if there is anything to look out for on the 94's. There is some body rust. The rear corner on the pass side below the tail light has a large hole but the frame is solid. The motor runs great but it needs a new clutch. The jeep does have high miles on it but the motor only has 50,000 on it. Money wise I can pick it up for under $1000. What do you guys think? I've always wanted a wrangler project and the price seems right.

Thanks!

Mike

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Old 09-22-2010, 10:48 PM   #2
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Buy it NOW, under 1k for a 94 in that condition??? thats great. Little body work and thats it. Can you post some pics?

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Old 09-22-2010, 10:56 PM   #3
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I hope to bring it home tomorrow so I should have pictures up. I've been looking for repair panels for the pass side rear corner but I only see them for 86 and older. Does anybody make them for YJ wranglers?
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Old 09-22-2010, 11:10 PM   #4
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Sounds like a good deal, Quadratec must have the part.
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Old 09-23-2010, 06:42 AM   #5
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Without seeing the jeep, sounds like a good deal, as long the frame is solid and you have the $$$$$ go for it.... This post is a great summary of what to look for:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f8/thin...-yj-55099.html



Good luck!!!
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Old 09-23-2010, 04:38 PM   #6
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Well here are some pictures of the Jeep. Didn't get it home yet. Wanted you guys to see some pictures of it to see what ya'll think. I went around the entire frame with a screwdriver and a hammer and It's solid. No where did I ever come close to poking through. One section of the frame by the drivers side rear front spring mount is pretty scaley but I still couldn't poke through with the screwdriver. She runs great! Goes into the gears fine. I don't even think it needs a clutch I think it was sticking on him from sitting. The body is pretty rusty. The pass side isn't really that bad except the back corner but the drivers side has a couple really bad spots by the Jeep letters and in front of the rear wheel. The drivers side floor has a couple holes but that's all I could find. I do have a Hobart 140 Mig so I can weld the panels in myself although I don't have alot of experience with sheet metal work.

What it comes down to is I can get it for $750. I'm actually not spending any cash I'm trading him somthing that has a value of $750 for it. Still a good deal right?




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Old 09-23-2010, 04:41 PM   #7
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You can get a back corner for a CJ7 and it will work.

750 is cheap...the top and doors down here would bring 1200.00
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Old 09-23-2010, 04:43 PM   #8
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I'm not an expert, but it looks like a deal to me! Heck, I would think that in a worst case scenario you could at least sell the hard top and doors for what you paid for it.
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Old 09-23-2010, 07:45 PM   #9
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So a corner from a CJ7 will work on a wrangler tub? I really only need to cut out the bottom section of that corner anyways.

The hardtop and doors will probably be sold anyways because I would rather have a soft top or bikini top. It's not going to be a daily driver.

Is it safe to use a tow dolly if I put the transfer case in neutural?
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:26 PM   #10
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You should buy it like NOW. ANd if your gonna get rid of the doors please Message me. I really would like some full foors.
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Old 09-23-2010, 08:29 PM   #11
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At less than $1k its a steal. Buy it and never look back.
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:18 PM   #12
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Has potential, lose the tubes
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Old 09-23-2010, 09:26 PM   #13
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Quote:
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Has potential, lose the tubes
No just paint them black
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Old 09-23-2010, 10:35 PM   #14
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Yup CJ7 tub is the same on the back
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Old 09-24-2010, 11:40 AM   #15
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Well she's home!!!! Loading it on the trailer the brake pedal went to the floor because I think a brake line busted so it made for a fun time trying to load it up on to the trailer with no brakes!!

Not sure what direction I'm going to go with it yet. I know I'm going to keep the original drivetrain in it as it runs perfect. The rust is what worries me but I guess if I find anything really bad I can just part it out and make my money back. I'll post more detailed pictures later.

Oh yea and I was happy to find out it is fuel injected! For some reason I thought the 94's were carbed. Yep I'm a jeep newbie!
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Old 09-24-2010, 01:21 PM   #16
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Oh yea and I was happy to find out it is fuel injected! For some reason I thought the 94's were carbed. Yep I'm a jeep newbie!
I didnt know that either lol. When I saw it was fuel injected pretty happy.
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Old 09-24-2010, 08:01 PM   #17
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Well I hope you guys don't mind looking at pictures! LOL I just want to get your opinions on it and weather it's worth fixing. I took some detailed photo's of the floor pans and body. Went over the frame front to back and the frame is indeed is solid. Put some new battery terminals on and a battery I had and it runs great. Drivetrain is solid. 4wd hi and low work great. Here's some photo's. I'll describe each photo.

Rear seat trunk area completely solid. Doesn't even have surface rust.


Pass side rear floor. Solid


Pass side rear pan by the roll bar. Surface rust and 2 small pin holes but still pretty solid.


Pass side front floor pan. Surface rust but solid and no pin holes. Just the 2 drain holes.


More to come...
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Old 09-24-2010, 08:12 PM   #18
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Drivers side rear floor pan. Solid. Just surface rust


Drivers side pan along the side of the seat. Surface rust but solid.


And the really bad area. The Driver side front floor pan. Completely GONE! Cross member is even rotted. Rest of the cross member is solid to the pass side.


Notice the coke can used to patch the side!


What do you guys think about this? Can it be fixed? What about the crossmember? Because of this rot the driver side door has to be shut pretty hard. The side of the body flexes when the door opens. Thoughts on this?

I can't believe how bad this floor pan is and the rest of it is solid except for the 2 pin holes on the other side.

Thanks for all your posts so far guys! I do appreciate it!
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Old 09-24-2010, 08:19 PM   #19
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Drivers side body.




Pass side just has some bubbles but no holes.


Dog likes it! Project Black dog??
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Old 09-24-2010, 10:33 PM   #20
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Its really up to you. You can't weld to rust so your gonna have to cut back to good metal to be able to do anything. Its not an impossible job, but time consuming to say the least. If the frame is indeed solid and it runs well, I would search for a tub and swap it over. Will be money well spent in the long run.
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Old 09-24-2010, 11:59 PM   #21
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Its really up to you. You can't weld to rust so your gonna have to cut back to good metal to be able to do anything. Its not an impossible job, but time consuming to say the least. If the frame is indeed solid and it runs well, I would search for a tub and swap it over. Will be money well spent in the long run.
how much does a tub run for?
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Old 09-25-2010, 12:34 AM   #22
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You can buy replacement panels for the rusted out parts. Look at Quadratec.com
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Old 09-25-2010, 08:47 AM   #23
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how much does a tub run for?
It all depends man...here a rust free one will bring 800-1200 depending on dents etc. But since you are in it that cheap, I wouldn't hesitate on swapping the tub versus patch panels. Worst thing about those is no matter what, the rust will come back. If you weld something and cannot get to both sides of it, or if you overlap metal...it will rust again.
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Old 09-25-2010, 08:56 AM   #24
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ohh well the jeep im getting (now tues or wensday bc they pputting the starter in) has like no rust
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Old 09-25-2010, 09:30 AM   #25
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Well as much as I don't want to I may just end up parting it out or selling it whole. I don't have the time or enough room in the garage to swap tubs out.
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Old 09-25-2010, 02:07 PM   #26
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Its not hard Mike, I can have the tub off one in about 25 minutes. I'd hate to see you give up that easy
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Old 09-25-2010, 08:23 PM   #27
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Not going to give up on it. Gonna keep my eye out for a tub and if that doesn't pan out then I'm gonna put in a new floor pan and fix the crossmember and get her back on the road.
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Old 09-25-2010, 08:54 PM   #28
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good choise!

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