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Old 10-16-2013, 04:25 PM   #1
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94 YJ Ssuspension Issues

New to the site and have been reading many threads and looks like a good place for advice. I recently purchased my first Jeep (94 YJ).

Jeep came with some known issues.

suspension issues that I would like some advice on. As I have read, the YJ is notorious for having some rusting issues with the rear passager frame near the passenger side rear shackle. Which is the case with mine. I have discussed options with a well known welder here locally and for about $800-$900, I can have both rear portions of the frame cut out and welded with new 1/8" plates. He will also cut out and replace both front floor pans.

Here are some of the issues that I need to address and would like advice on:

1. Right rear shackle/frame-I know they make caps, so which is better a cap or have the welder cut out the bad part of the frame and prefab 1/8" plates?

2. I will have to replace the shackles in the rear and I am assuming the existing shackles are the originals. What is the stock dimension of the rear shackle for a 94 YJ, or how do you measure to determine the correct size? Is it just a vertical measurement?

3. I have thought of lifting the YJ, but I am not sure of the benefits other then the obvious, it makes it higher. I like the look, and I would take this off road, but the YJ would be used more often on the road.

Is there a trade off with the handling of the vehicle when lifting this?

Would I see a difference on how it handles off road from daily road driving?

When you lift it, does it compromise the steering and if so, how can that be corrected?

When you lift either the body or suspension, is there a specific height the other has to be? That is, if I went with a 4" suspension lift, how high would you lift the body, or do you have to? Would there be any adverse effects on handling?

4. What is the benefit of a SOA?

5. I also have a few bad body mounts (Rubber is missing) on at least 2 of them. Is this difficult to replace or could this be adressed if I decided to lift it?

Bottom line, is that frame is descent, with the exception of the right rear shackle area and surface rust. If I get this corrected by a welder, is it best to have it lifted to correct the body mount issues? What I'd like to be able to do, is to have any repairs/modifications done in the appropriate order to minimize the amount of downtime and cost.

As you can probably sense, I don't have the expertise to do any of the major repairs or modifications, so it would be done professionaly. I'd like to educate myself on the best way to go about these before proceeding.

Sorry this is so long, but I would appreciate any advice along with manufacturer recommendations on lifts and suspensions.

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Old 10-16-2013, 04:40 PM   #2
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For your rust repair that price is outrageous ! I used these on my brothers old YJ and a local welder cut out the rot and welded these in for $200

Wrangler Rear Shackle Mount Section, Left Side (ART-042-L) [ART-042-L] - $149.95 : Safe-T-Cap Frame Repair Kits by Auto Rust Technicians, we make it easy to make it safe
Wrangler Rear Shackle Mount Section, Right Side (ART-042-R) [ART-042-R] - $149.95 : Safe-T-Cap Frame Repair Kits by Auto Rust Technicians, we make it easy to make it safe

If you do replace the shackles replace the frame bushings also, Never go over a 1" shackle I prefer Boomerang shackles they are anti inversion when used in the front and they clear the cross member in the rear, A lift kit will benefit from longer shackles for ride and articulation .

as for body lifts I never have gone over a 1" Bodylift I like Prothane and Daystar kits they use a 1" taller mount with new hardware others used a spacer which is sketchy.

I have run 3.5" springs with a 1" shackle and 1" Bodylift with 33's with good results, Then I changed to a better spring that was 4.5" lift with a 1/2" lift shakle and 1" bodylift and ran a 35

I ran a Rustys 4" it lasted a week before I had the main leaf snap, Warranty was a nightmare. I switched to rubicon express springs . Then a few years later I ran Alcan springs .

I am probably going to run Old Man Emu 36R springs with a set of 1" boomerang shackles and Bilstein 5100 shocks on my new to me YJ with a 1" prothane or daystar BL with a 33" tire

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Old 10-18-2013, 04:12 AM   #3
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Thanks for the feedback Tom. I will get some additional quotes on the welding.
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Old 10-18-2013, 04:26 PM   #4
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I'm a welder and I agree with Tom95YJ. Do the math to get what you think is a reasonable quote. For example, in my area the going shop rate is about $70 an hour. That means this job would take about 12 hours. You may be better off asking for a quote based on hours rather than a flat amount.
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Old 10-21-2013, 03:02 PM   #5
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Ok, just a quick update on the welding. Spoke to another welder who appears to be very knowledgeable with Jeeps and their rear frame issues. Looks like he would be a few hundred bucks cheaper, but more importantly, also works on many 4X4's. He can weld both rear frames near the rear shackles with the 1/8" plates and replace the front driverside floor pan (other isn't as bad as I had originally thought) for $600. He also mentioned two options for shackles.

1. Weld a piece under the frame which would provide 1 1/2" - 2" of lift.
2. Or simply drill the holes for the shackles into the welded plate, which would require new bushings and shackles.

Honestly, as much as I would like the lift, fabricating something a little unconventional kind of bothers me, so I was wondering if anyone has heard of this method and if it is the right thing to do. Obviously, my main goal is to correct the frame the best that I can without having to replace the entire frame.
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