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Old 03-14-2012, 03:18 PM   #31
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If there is anything you need me to look at on mine just let me know. I have two 94's, one that is completely stripped and parting out. If you need something traced out just let me know

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Old 03-14-2012, 07:31 PM   #32
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That's great!! Thank you very much sir!

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Old 03-20-2012, 05:24 AM   #33
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Have not heard anything from this thread in a while.. SUP??? did that Jeep ever get figured out?
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Old 03-20-2012, 06:39 PM   #34
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Nope sir, still nothing. Looking for a new ECU, going to try that. Found one on ebay, a reman, for about 150. Was hoping I could test the old to see if it was bad. But don't have too much in the Jeep, so that much not going to hurt too bad. Unless I have a relay in the wiring missing somewhere, that is all I can think it could be. Got power everywhere I think it should be. Unless I am missing something. Going to go this week and talk to a mechanic friend of mine see if he might stop by just to take a gander at it.
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Old 03-20-2012, 08:41 PM   #35
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Theres something in here about changing some three diodes in the ECU and fixing them, check it out, some one will come along and help before long.
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Old 03-21-2012, 01:06 AM   #36
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My guy says that the ecm will not prevent cranking.
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:13 AM   #37
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So if it won't prevent it from cranking, then I have a bad relay or something like it right? The switch is good because when it is plugged in, I can touch the starter prong and the engine will turn over. But, not with the key switch when all is hooked up and back together. Down to one vechile and need to get it running.
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Old 03-21-2012, 07:42 AM   #38
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Did you use your original engine wiring harness (the left side connector looking at the firewall bulkhead)? Was the '94 motor from a Wrangler or a Cherokee?
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Old 03-21-2012, 08:14 AM   #39
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I would test power at the starter relay and work torwards the ignition switch.. maybe only a loose wire at the ignition connection. get a look at a schematic maybe a power meter with alligator clip and a factory service manual might help. $7.95 download at tradebit. Sell Files Online: Affiliate Program, Software Downloads, Digital Downloads
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:24 AM   #40
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yes used the original wiring harness. I believe the motor came out of a wrangler. You say that connector is on the left side of the engine compartment? Found the O2 sensor was broke, but that wouldn't have anything to do with it not turning over or not having fire or anything like that right? It really to me has to be something simple. I would think, maybe Im a dummy!
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:45 PM   #41
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If your issue is no crank take the rectangular 10-pin dash wiring connector apart (in the general area of the transfer case shifter) and put 12V to the yellow wire. It should be slot 7, the numbers are stamped on the connector. It should crank, if it doesn't you have a wiring or relay issue issue in your power distribution center. If it does crank you need to trace the other side of the yellow back to the column. The hot wire in START should be a green wire on top of the column. The connector is blue and the other 2 wires in this connector are yellow and violet.

I just went through this when I did a dash swap and someone had taken the feed to the #7 slot out. Finally figured out that they had run the start through the interior fusebox and out to the PDC from the bulkhead on slot A6.
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Old 03-21-2012, 04:35 PM   #42
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I can pull the ignition switch off the column, and with it still plugged in, with a test light I can touch the prong that says it is for start, and the engine will turn over that way. But not with the switch mounted to the column and using the key. I found this out by pulling the switch and accidentally hitting that prong during removal. But does that mean I could still possibly have a problem with the yellow wire you are talking about?? thanks for all the help, it is very much appreciated!!

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Old 03-21-2012, 10:20 PM   #43
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Sounds like you just have a bad ignition switch.
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Old 03-21-2012, 11:24 PM   #44
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:15 AM   #45
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I replaced the ignition switch, was the first thing I did when I started on this project after engine replacement. Do you think that I could have gotten a bad one?? The old one was doing the same thing this one is...nothing
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Old 03-22-2012, 10:21 AM   #46
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I'm guessing you replaced the lock cylinder, if you did I would check the contactors on the top of the column under the dash. I believe contact is made by a metal rod linked to the key switch. Turn the key and check for 12V at the green wire on the column when you turn the key to START as I posted earlier. You can stick a probe in the back side of the connector to check for power. If you don't have power here I think you either still have a bad lock cylinder (or it was installed wrong), your column linkage rod is screwed up or the rod is not making contact on the green wire.
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Old 03-22-2012, 10:28 AM   #47
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Mine did that and it was a bad connection at the firewall
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Old 03-22-2012, 12:19 PM   #48
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But he can send power to the starter from the column
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Old 03-22-2012, 12:50 PM   #49
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The only thing that has been changed since the motor was put in it is the ignition switch itself. Haven't replaced the lock cylinder. Bought a haynes manual, and according to it I have power in all the right spots in the different key positions. That being power to the enitre switch itself. Just not getting power or signal to turn the starter over with the key. Nor do I have fire or the fuel pump not coming on when the key is turned on. I can jump the starter and check for fire, have nothing.
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Old 03-22-2012, 01:14 PM   #50
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Maybe we're not talking about the same thing. Did you remove the steering wheel and replace the entire ignition switch (what I called the lock cylinder)? Was it new or used? The key position has to actuate a metal rod to trigger the run and start modes.

Did you find that green wire yet? You say you've jumped it off the ignition switch, if you can't get power at the green wire in start you've got a problem somewhere in the column.

Don't you dare leave this thread until you tell us what fixed it
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Old 03-22-2012, 03:15 PM   #51
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No, I didn't change the lock cylinder, I replaced the ignition switch that goes on the column. The one where the rod runs through to make the positions on the switch. I have power to the switch, just not getting any to the starter when I turn the key to the start position. Is there any other wires or relays that need to be checked that I could be missing?? I have checked all of them under the hood in the fuse box, swapped them and all that, but with no avail. STUMPPED!!!
I won't leave this thread until everyone knows what fixed it.
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Old 03-22-2012, 03:40 PM   #52
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Green wire....12V with key in start or no?
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Old 03-22-2012, 04:23 PM   #53
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There is not a green wire going from the ignition switch itself, out of the blue plug connector. There is a yellow wire, big red wire, blue and white wire, black and orange wire, and two white and black striped wires. There is however, another switch that goes on the column beside the ignition switch where another metal rod goes in which appears to be for the bright lights. There is a green wire or two going into that. One is connected to a purple wire. Does any of that make any sense??
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Old 03-24-2012, 12:31 PM   #54
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Could I have a bad auto shutdown relay, since that controls the ignition, fuel pump, and so on??
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Old 03-24-2012, 02:22 PM   #55
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Replaced the auto shutdown relay, didnt fix the problem. Still no fuel pump kick on or turnover from key. Could it be possible that I have a ground problem?? If I hooked it up would it be able to tell me a code that might be causing the problem? thanks for the help.
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Old 03-24-2012, 08:50 PM   #56
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Here's my thinking: if you can turn the engine over by touching the start lead with a test light, which basically provides a path to ground, then the ground path in the harness from the switch to the ground point in the column is bad. The same ground path also provides continuity in the RUN position, so no path means no fuel pump activity. Check continuity to ground from the ignition switch connector.
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Old 03-24-2012, 09:37 PM   #57
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^^ That is, if you are using a test light connected to ground and not just jumping 12 volts with a wire.
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:14 PM   #58
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Here's the green on the column connector. It should be hot in start.

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Old 03-25-2012, 12:39 AM   #59
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nicely done Brentd
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Old 03-26-2012, 06:22 PM   #60
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Mr Brentd,
Checked that wire after I went and bought an actual volt meter. I have 12v to it when it is in start position. I had someone sitting in the jeep and holding the key in the start position while I checked to see if I had 12v to the small post on the solenoid on the starter. I had nothing. With the meter, checked everything in the PDC, and everything from the fuses to the relays had power when the battery was hooked up. Could I really be fighting a bad ground somewhere and just not seeing it??? Thanks for the picture and appreciate the help!

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