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Old 11-01-2010, 03:52 PM   #1
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95 Wrangler Question

So got a the wrangler out for the winter and noticed something bad... A clicking in the front end every half a tire rotation. Realizing this may not be a good thing, I got the old flashlight out and poked around. Now, I'll be right up front and tell you that I can do any maintenance in the drivetrain from tearing an engine down to rebuilding the tranny, but the only thing I've never taken apart or even looked into for that matter is anything to do with steering... Yeah, I'm a little ashamed of that one.

Here's what I found when I poked around. On both front tires, there's a little "C" shapped bracket that connects to the wheel assembly. I'm assuming this is coming from the transfer case and is what actually turns the wheel. Both of those are loose and I can wobble them with my fingers. Yeah, not good, I imagine. My question is this. 1) What's the name of that part so I can order the right ones and 2) what's it going to cost and 3) Am I going to have to drop the whole front end to do this?

Thanks in advance.

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Old 11-01-2010, 04:12 PM   #2
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95 Wrangler reply

If it iscomming from the Transfer Case, are they on the front drive shaft on the universaljoits on either end.

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Old 11-01-2010, 04:42 PM   #3
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If you could post a picture it would help.
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Old 11-01-2010, 06:08 PM   #4
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probably the u-joints common issue, replace em and your golden
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Old 11-01-2010, 06:19 PM   #5
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sounds like u joints.
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Old 11-01-2010, 06:32 PM   #6
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I will also say axle shaft u-joints.. simple fix..

Go here for more infor on how to do it.. Same on YJ or TJ
Jeep TJ Web Site of Stu Olson - N7QJP
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Old 11-01-2010, 10:43 PM   #7
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I will also say axle shaft u-joints.. simple fix..

Go here for more infor on how to do it.. Same on YJ or TJ
Jeep TJ Web Site of Stu Olson - N7QJP
If u-joints are clicking while driving straight try to make a complete u-turn either way (left or right) the noise should go nuts and you'll hear a lot more of it. However, I've never heard it to be cyclic (not that it's impossible, just never had it in my experience), it's usually random rhythm with no pattern. I any case you should hear it more distinctively when wheels are all the way left or right, otherwise it could be something else. Oh, and check it they're (u-joints) covered in red dust. Is so, that's your answer.



if you see this than more likely you have this



and it's time to change them all
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Old 11-02-2010, 10:58 AM   #8
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All right, I took a look again last night and realized yeah, it's probably the U-Joints. Do I have to yank the whole drive shaft for that, or can I finagle it out with minimal dis-assembly?
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Old 11-02-2010, 11:17 PM   #9
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I'm in the same boat and was told that I'd have to pull the axle out for the job. Considering amount of rust on those I have a feeling I'll have to use some heavy equipment to get those u-joints out. I started taking everything apart when got stuck 'coz I have to go buy 36mm socket for the axle nut and find the right socket for the lower ball joint nut (30mm is a bit loose and will destroy the nut if I'd keep pushing). Speaking of, does anyone know what size socket it is originally?

Have fun

P.S. ironically enough, the sound they were making was a cyclic clicking noise. I could hear it while rolling straight ahead in neutral with engine off. "You live, you learn..."
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Old 11-03-2010, 11:47 AM   #10
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I just replaced my joints and I found I had to remove the upper ball joint to get enough clearance for the rotor to move out of the way. This wasn't an issue at the time because I was going to replace the ball joints anyway. It wasn't too hard of a job with pneumatic tools. It's a bit like a jigsaw puzzle in figuring out the angle to turn the axle shaft to get the rotor to lower enough to come free from the lower ball joint. If I was you and were going to have all this apart I recommend going ahead and replacing the ball joints and getting all that out of the way. They aren't that much either.
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Old 11-03-2010, 08:02 PM   #11
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You do need to remove the axle to change the u-joints, but you don't have to spilt the ball joint to do it. Just remove the 36mm axle nut, caliper, rotor and the three 13mm bolts that hold the hub bearing unit on and remove the hub unit and pull the shaft out slowly and as straight as possible so you don't rip the seal.
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Old 11-04-2010, 08:58 AM   #12
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As funny as it is the axle nut is 36mm but lower ball joint nut is 1 1/8"
Interesting

Could anyone suggest any trick for extra rusty axle nuts?
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Old 11-04-2010, 08:59 AM   #13
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Just did my daughters 93 YJ front axlels U Joints. Took about 2-3 hours. Didn't get in a hurry and everything worked out fine.
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Old 11-04-2010, 11:54 AM   #14
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As funny as it is the axle nut is 36mm but lower ball joint nut is 1 1/8"
Interesting

Could anyone suggest any trick for extra rusty axle nuts?
The 36mm nut: Removed mine yesterday with an impact gun.
Three bolts holding the hub: 13mm or in bad cases 1/2" with a 3 foot pipe extension. They are very hard to remove!
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Old 11-05-2010, 06:05 PM   #15
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Those three on the back are 12-points bolts. Are they metric or imperial?
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Old 11-08-2010, 07:36 AM   #16
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Those three on the back are 12-points bolts. Are they metric or imperial?
Update: It's a 13mm 12 points socket. It took me 3 days of soaking it up in PB buster (or whatever the real name is) and a 3' bar to get it moving. However ones it starts going I just kept on going in and out while lining the thread to keep it from wrapping up. Came out nicely and very clean.

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