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Old 03-16-2012, 01:16 PM   #31
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Mine will start occasionally then not start for a long period of time. DRB says everything is working under the hood. I pull no codes, it is a brand new engine, cps cam sensor.....wiring harness, alternator, o2 sensor all new, have tried 3 different cps, a known good one and 2 new. Original pcm has been rebuilt, I have 2 other pcms that I have tried as well, all grounds are connected. The engine is a 4.0 bored .30 over, milled, ported, polished head. 62mm throttle body, stainless header. Cam is Lunati voodoo .507 lift 264 duration. This is the second rebuild of the engine and this little problem is driving me nuts. I have been spending to much time at work lately hopin to dig further into it Sunday.

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Old 03-16-2012, 05:57 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by Dr Doug View Post
The crankshaft position sensor needs to be changed. It may look brand new but no good. It's a good investment especially if there are any questions. I had a no start condition as well and when we changed the CPS it started right up.

Some other things to check:
1. when you turn on the key you should hear the fuel pump come on and may hear a click or two from the relay in the power distribution center (just forward of the battery). If you do not hear this then your PCM (powertrain control Module)may be bad and/or your fuel pump relay may be bad.
2. check the fuel pump relay. This is very easy - just switch the fuel pump relay with another working relay (e.g., the horn - just make sure the horn relay works first by sounding the horn).
3. You can also check to make sure you have some pressure in the fuel rail by depressing the test port pressure fitting on the fuel rail (it looks like the air valve for a tire on the fuel rail by towards the front). Depress the fitting a small amount of gas should gush out (you may want to put a paper towl on the manifold to absorb the gas).
3. Check the coil. Is it new? This is another good investment if you are not sure about the coil quality. ALso, if you been messing with cranking and cranking and cranking without having the ignition wire connected to the distributor cap, it could damage the coil.
4. Check the continuity on the double pronged wire going into the coil. This was another problem I had. A no start condition was driving me nuts. I changed the coil and it started right up. but then I could shut it down by jiggling the coil wire. I'm replacing it.

Regarding your connector in the picture. It is definitly not the PCM connnector. That is on the left side by the PCM (computer).
I have two coils and two computers that I'm trying with, Gas is getting there and I can hear the Relay working, good fuel pressure as well. I replaced all the wires, I ordered a new CPS There is 8 volts getting to the CPS and good ground.

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Old 03-16-2012, 06:00 PM   #33
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I would say it could be the cam sensor in the dist. or the crank sensor on the top of the bell housing. if you have an OBDII reader it will tell you if either one of the are the culprit. At least it worked that way on my 95
It never ran before, you think the check engine light would come up if it never been running before ?
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Old 03-16-2012, 06:02 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by STUUPID View Post
Mine will start occasionally then not start for a long period of time. DRB says everything is working under the hood. I pull no codes, it is a brand new engine, cps cam sensor.....wiring harness, alternator, o2 sensor all new, have tried 3 different cps, a known good one and 2 new. Original pcm has been rebuilt, I have 2 other pcms that I have tried as well, all grounds are connected. The engine is a 4.0 bored .30 over, milled, ported, polished head. 62mm throttle body, stainless header. Cam is Lunati voodoo .507 lift 264 duration. This is the second rebuild of the engine and this little problem is driving me nuts. I have been spending to much time at work lately hopin to dig further into it Sunday.
Man, I wish I can help you, I'm doing automotive technology and I hear a lot of things from Teachers on how a lot of things dealerships can't even figure out fixes for them or unexplained !!
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Old 03-17-2012, 05:07 AM   #35
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Man, I wish I can help you, I'm doing automotive technology and I hear a lot of things from Teachers on how a lot of things dealerships can't even figure out fixes for them or unexplained !!
Thanks I appreciate that. I took automotive technology in the early 90's and I worked on cars for quite awhile but the fact that I like cars to much made me stop and begin a career in industrial equipment. If ya work on them all the time makes it harder to go home and work on your toys. Plus the fact that none of my friends own industrial equipment.
I will figure mine out sooner or later or just rip the engine out and drop in something else!
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Old 03-17-2012, 06:33 PM   #36
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i was under the impression that the plug in the picture is for the relay to push into for the driving lights
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Old 03-17-2012, 09:20 PM   #37
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Just a thought , do you have injector pulse?. you might be able to borrow a "noid light" from an Autozone or something. Plug it into one of the injector plugs, crank it , and see if the light flickers, if so, at least that part of the ECM is working. I agree that cam/crank sensors are common these. btw, you don't have a mass air flow sensor on that.

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