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Old 10-19-2012, 08:33 AM   #481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myquite View Post
So if i do a SOA with stock springs and do a SYE i should not need to drop the tc?
Not only will you not need a TC drop, but you could put lift springs on and still not need a TC drop with an SYE. I am about +2" and no TC Drop. The clearance is awesome. If you use stock springs though you will need a traction bar in the rear. If you get Rubicon springs you wont need a traction bar, but you will need a high steer solution since those are +1.5".

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Old 10-19-2012, 09:45 AM   #482
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^^^true as long as your staying with stock horsepower less than 200 horse. Anything more than that will wad any spring up....ask me how I know

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Old 10-19-2012, 12:42 PM   #483
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Yeah, I had a spring shop re-arch mine and add the full length add a leaf, but kept my traction bar for good measure since I am pretty heavy on the gas on certain trails.
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Old 10-20-2012, 07:24 PM   #484
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what is sye?
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Old 10-22-2012, 07:37 PM   #485
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^ Slip yoke eliminator.

This is a great guide! I am gonna use it when i soa mine soon. I might be getting some SOA specific springs of unknown type from indyjeepman. I am gonna use these on mine with some mods and hopefully a front and rear stretch.

Big- can you elaborate on the swing shackle on the rear wishbone? I think i have an image in my head but want to be sure. I am gonna copy yours somewhat ifthats ok for axle wrap issues. I only have a 2.5l right now but I might as well build it for more later.
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Old 10-24-2012, 05:05 PM   #486
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I dont use a shackle on the wishbone, its solid mount on both ends.
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Old 10-24-2012, 07:54 PM   #487
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Would it be beneficial to do the mega short sye from rugged ridge and get longer drive shaft ?
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Old 10-24-2012, 10:06 PM   #488
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You can do that, it's not gonna hurt anything but your checkbook
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Old 10-24-2012, 11:10 PM   #489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amerdt4
Would it be beneficial to do the mega short sye from rugged ridge and get longer drive shaft ?
Maybe it would help if you do 4" springs or more with SOA.
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Old 10-25-2012, 05:39 AM   #490
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Maybe it would help if you do 4" springs or more with SOA.
So the wind can blow my Jeep over ?
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Old 10-25-2012, 09:28 AM   #491
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Thats why we put fullsize axles in for anything taller than a standard soa
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Old 10-25-2012, 11:29 PM   #492
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Quote:
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Thats why we put fullsize axles in for anything taller than a standard soa
Very true right there!
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Old 11-03-2012, 03:35 PM   #493
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Ibuildembig, what can I do to stop breaking CV Joints on my Driveshaft? I keep it greased, but they dont last long at all. I keep breaking the piece the arrow is pointing at. They just crap out on me even though I grease them. They are spicer too. With +1.5"-2" on top of SOA can I get away with a strait shaft or will it vibrate like crazy. 8.8 Pinion flange is pointing 2 Degrees below the SYE Yoke the way the perches are currently welded. I just want to make this as strong as possible so I dont have to worry about this anymore.
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Old 11-03-2012, 04:54 PM   #494
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Pm me, we need to talk on the phone
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Old 11-04-2012, 06:44 AM   #495
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Ibuildembig, what can I do to stop breaking CV Joints on my Driveshaft? I keep it greased, but they dont last long at all. I keep breaking the piece the arrow is pointing at. They just crap out on me even though I grease them. They are spicer too. With +1.5"-2" on top of SOA can I get away with a strait shaft or will it vibrate like crazy. 8.8 Pinion flange is pointing 2 Degrees below the SYE Yoke the way the perches are currently welded. I just want to make this as strong as possible so I dont have to worry about this anymore.
I had to have a driveshaft custom built. The PO warned me that he was breaking shafts. Oliver's in WS built it and another one for a friend's Yota. Vibration is all gone.
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Old 11-04-2012, 08:28 AM   #496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deepair3

I had to have a driveshaft custom built. The PO warned me that he was breaking shafts. Oliver's in WS built it and another one for a friend's Yota. Vibration is all gone.
Yeah this is custom built. After pulling it apart this morning i can see the center joints keep failing on me. Not sure if i can get away with a strait shaft or not. If it didnt vibrate it would defenitly last longer.
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:33 AM   #497
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Just finished an SOA conversion on my 95 YJ and having some driveshaft vibration issues. I used the RC perches and installed a tom woods SYE. Unfortunately I did not have the drive shaft when I set my pinion angle and I am pretty sure I set my pinion angle incorrectly and that is causing my vibration. I mainly feel it when I am applying throttle going forward and it settles down at low throttle conditions. Also have no vibrations in reverse.

Using my protractor I currently have 17 or 18 degrees on my drive shaft and 23 or 24 degrees on my pinion.

Basically looking for some confirmation that I need to install a 6 degree wedge to drop my pinion angle down and if 6 degrees will be enough?

Thank you for your time and I appreciate your help.

Shawn
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Old 11-04-2012, 10:49 AM   #498
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Yeah my angle is 2-3 degrees below pointing directly at the TC Yoke, but I have a traction bar and Rubicon Springs. When I hit the gas and the pinion comes up it should not pass pointing directly at the TC yoke. That is why I am pissed off. I get minimal vibration only in 4th gear at about 35mph which goes away if I speed up or anything.

If I could swap out the Yoke at the TC and pinion flage yoke for bigger ones, and go with a strait shaft that is what I would want to do. But if it vibrates like hell after all the money it would cost me I would be pretty pissed off.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:00 AM   #499
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Thumbs up Great Job!

I dug thi sup after a search; I'm doing a 8.8 swap into my Cherokee, and an SOA on my CJ7, so I've picked up lots from this. Great work, and a big thank you for this info.

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On a different note, I picked up one of those spicer adapters everyone says are right from jeep to 8.8.....thats bs, not even close. It fits the rearend just fine, but its still gonna require a step joint to make it work. So its pretty much worthless. Just get an explorer driveshaft and put the jeep front on it and go on.
It seems that some 94 and 95 YJs have a 1330 at the differential, and the common 1310 at the case. Most jeeps are 1330 at both ends, they measure like this
3 1/2" 1310
4" 1330

I see you went to a 1350 (if I remember right); Is that common on 1/2 ton trucks? If so I am considering cutting down a 1/2 tn driveshaft and using for the cherokee when I do the SYE;
Did you keep the 1310 at the case, or are you running 1350s at both ends? If so how did you convert it.
And on a side note I agree with you on not running "CV" shafts, back in the day, everyone was pulling them out and throwing them away. And all I see are not CVs but really double cordon jointed.
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:22 AM   #500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ccbruin View Post
would a stock xj drop pitman arm work?
I don;t know about YJs, but a stock XJ pitman arm does drop more than stock CJ7 arm; looks like about 2 inches. And a Grand Cherokee (WJ, I think) drops an inch more.
The XJ arm is beefier, but alittle shorter, so on a CJ you will lose some turning radius.
{This is true on my 91 XJ, and 80 CJ7}
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Old 11-14-2012, 09:27 AM   #501
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Yeah this is custom built. After pulling it apart this morning i can see the center joints keep failing on me. Not sure if i can get away with a strait shaft or not. If it didnt vibrate it would defenitly last longer.
That's exactly what a friend told me would happen, and convinced me to give up on those double jointed shafts. I always though a CV joint was like a ball and socket, like a Toyota front end.
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Old 11-14-2012, 10:13 AM   #502
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Originally Posted by 03_TJ View Post
I dug thi sup after a search; I'm doing a 8.8 swap into my Cherokee, and an SOA on my CJ7, so I've picked up lots from this. Great work, and a big thank you for this info.



It seems that some 94 and 95 YJs have a 1330 at the differential, and the common 1310 at the case. Most jeeps are 1330 at both ends, they measure like this
3 1/2" 1310
4" 1330

I see you went to a 1350 (if I remember right); Is that common on 1/2 ton trucks? If so I am considering cutting down a 1/2 tn driveshaft and using for the cherokee when I do the SYE;
Did you keep the 1310 at the case, or are you running 1350s at both ends? If so how did you convert it.
And on a side note I agree with you on not running "CV" shafts, back in the day, everyone was pulling them out and throwing them away. And all I see are not CVs but really double cordon jointed.
When I did this writeup I hadn't cut up a 94-95 yet so that's why the driveshaft adapter threw me for a loop. They have a 1330 on both ends. A 1350 is a 1 ton joint so that's what your looking for shaftwise. You can even go up to a 1410 which would be a newer truck with a diesel.
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:37 PM   #503
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Are you running a 1350 on the TC end too? Did that take an adaptor?
Thanks for the info.
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Old 11-15-2012, 03:40 PM   #504
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Yes 1350's on the whole rear driveline
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:00 PM   #505
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when i do this i'll be doing an 8.8 swap so the rear drive shaft needs to be adjusted. What about the front driveshaft, will it be long enough or will that need to be addressed also?
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Old 11-25-2012, 09:30 AM   #506
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The front shaft is usually fine
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Old 11-25-2012, 06:38 PM   #507
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I have a 95 2.5l with 5 speed.
So far stock.

My distant plan is ford v8.

But for now with my 2.5 and 5 speed.

Would it be ok to do a full size swap, soa and a stretch?
Then when the time comes do the v8 swap.

Running 4.56:1 and 33's with the 2.5 then 35 or 37's with the v8?
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Old 11-26-2012, 10:11 AM   #508
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Sure I dont see a problem with that...you just have to keep in mind your final drive ratio
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Old 11-26-2012, 12:54 PM   #509
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Good. I can't see doing the entire build at once.
So I figured i'd get my axles ready for the v8 before the v8 goes in.

Hopefully by time the V8 time comes around I'll have my manager position at the shop I work at (pretty much already do the work)
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Old 11-26-2012, 12:59 PM   #510
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Start thinking about how much power its going to make, what tranny, case etc. That will have a huge factor on what gears you need to stuff in there. My first YJ I ran 4.56's on a 38 bogger and it was fine with the 347, but the one I recently did I stayed with 4.10's so it would have more highway friendly RPM's. Basically what I'm saying is that you can make up for low gears with horsepower

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