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Old 02-03-2011, 02:18 PM   #91
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whats the angle need to be roughly on the rear shaft?

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Old 02-03-2011, 02:21 PM   #92
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that depends on two things, tcase drop, rear axle used, what kinda shaft, etc

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Old 02-03-2011, 04:00 PM   #93
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When this is all done could one of the mods clean out the side conversations and make this a sticky?
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Old 02-03-2011, 06:18 PM   #94
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Has any one done any thing with the bolt on kit i mean i dont see this being that secure but their kit seems to include alot more then the other kits i have looked. does any one have experence with them ? there is the link
Jeep Wrangler YJ suspension lift, components, systems.
wow that price is cheap as hell woww. its 169 for front and 139 for back or something like that for the bolt on kit and that deff saves a lot more trouble then welding and stuff. i might have to buy that in the near future.

I have a question is there a such thing as a brake line kit that acts like a coil. when the suspension stretchs it opens like a coil and then when it compresses it compresses like a coil. I want to extend my lines a little more but when i extend them and they are just flapping around in the wind and i dont like that
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Old 02-04-2011, 08:47 AM   #95
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Where did u get ur 8.8 to use? I have SOA lift right now but would like to upgrade
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Old 02-04-2011, 08:57 AM   #96
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Mine came out of a 2000 model explorer with 4.10's...gave 200.00 for it.

No coiled up brake lines I have ever seen, the right ones are cheap enough
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Old 02-04-2011, 09:49 AM   #97
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On a different note, I picked up one of those spicer adapters everyone says are right from jeep to 8.8.....thats bs, not even close. It fits the rearend just fine, but its still gonna require a step joint to make it work. So its pretty much worthless. Just get an explorer driveshaft and put the jeep front on it and go on.
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Old 02-04-2011, 11:16 AM   #98
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Goose ,you running SYE or is stock slip yoke???
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Old 02-04-2011, 11:24 AM   #99
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I wouldnt run a CV shaft if someone paid me For now we are gonna use the slipyoke...13 years of running them without issue is good enough for me lol....eventually on stage 2 it will be getting a rubicon case and I will have to redo some stuff again
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Old 02-04-2011, 02:31 PM   #100
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i got one of my ford 8.8 from a 90 bronco and the other im getting from a 98 Explorer for the disc brakes. If ur close to new york im selling the bronco one
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Old 02-04-2011, 02:33 PM   #101
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No coiled up brake lines I have ever seen, the right ones are cheap enough [/QUOTE]

my only prob is i dont like my brake lines swaying around in the wind to get stuck on crap and rip off. i get pritty reasonable suspension travel for a leaf spring under set up and i dont feel like having to deal with them getting stuck on crap, but also not wana deal with them being to short. right know i have shocks that dont allow the full length of my suspension travel b/c my lines are a lil short
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Old 02-04-2011, 02:44 PM   #102
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I have um swinging on my crawler that has 54 inches of travel and I've never wiped out one
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Old 02-04-2011, 02:51 PM   #103
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hmm interesting, i amaze people when i tell them/ show them i get over around 20 inchs of travel on leafs and axle under
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Old 02-04-2011, 06:39 PM   #104
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I had a question, are you going to run a traction/anti wrap bar on it? I have an soa lift with a ford 9 and I dont have an antiwrap bar, I'm going to be getting one cause I'm tired of breaking drive shafts I was also wondering of they mess with flexing at all?
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Old 02-04-2011, 07:10 PM   #105
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Man, I'm dying for some pictures of this. I think that when I put in my 8.8 im going to go spring over. I might as well since I'm putting on new perches on it anyways.
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Old 02-04-2011, 09:23 PM   #106
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On a different note, I picked up one of those spicer adapters everyone says are right from jeep to 8.8.....thats bs, not even close.
You must have gotten the wrong one then.. I bought 2 of them, one for my YJ and one for my bros ZJ I just put an 8.8 in and they both worked perfectly.... ford 8.8 flange to 1310 u-joint

Part Number: D/S2-2-1379
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Old 02-04-2011, 10:17 PM   #107
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I usually use two short side Explorer lines with a hard line between the T Looks clean when done.Also the Rangers have a 1310 Flange adaptor or and Explorer with drum brakes.So no conversion joint.

Good looking Jeep
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Old 02-05-2011, 12:51 AM   #108
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Whats the number of the flange you use? I got the spicer part number listed on here and no fit....just gonna build my own shaft for now out of an explorer one when I get one I guess.

Yes I always run a traction bar on a SOA, usually its a wishbone type....as soon as my buddy brings my bender back I will post pics of how I build um.
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Old 02-05-2011, 07:54 AM   #109
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I dont know the part # I just grab them at the junkyard when Im there
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Old 02-05-2011, 09:53 AM   #110
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lol I was talking to uplifted about the dshaft flange adapter.
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Old 02-06-2011, 05:08 PM   #111
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[QUOTE=Ibuildembig;1033405]Mine came out of a 2000 model explorer with 4.10's...gave 200.00 for it.

will late 90's work? 97-99 ? what front end do u recommend ?
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Old 02-06-2011, 05:09 PM   #112
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do u have a shop?
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Old 02-06-2011, 05:11 PM   #113
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i drive mine everyday. i want to be able to ride trails and then drive it home. i just want it tough
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Old 02-06-2011, 06:39 PM   #114
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lol I was talking to uplifted about the dshaft flange adapter.
I listed the part number right under my post but here it is again.. Part Number: D/S2-2-1379

If your running a stock driveshaft with 1310 joints then this is the one you want.. As i said I bought 2 and they both worked... Before this flange though I ran a percision u joint # 353 which adapts the jeep 1310 driveshaft to the stock ford 1330 flange.. That works well also but I switched to the spicer flange so I didn't have to ditch the woods 1310 u joint that came with my cv shaft..
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Old 02-07-2011, 09:20 AM   #115
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i drive mine everyday. i want to be able to ride trails and then drive it home. i just want it tough
Depends on how rough and tough you want it. I'm using one ton stuff in my personal jeeps, but most people don't need anything that heavy duty

By shop you mean business right? Sorda, I do work on a referal basis from previous customers. I don't advertise, I don't have a shop phone, I really don't even bid jobs on a regular basis. I do it more for us than anything

Uplifted, thats the same one I bought and the stock jeep joint isn't close to being long enough to go through the adapter...I will try to get some pics for ya
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Old 02-07-2011, 11:28 PM   #116
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Ok heres what I have been messing with over the last 2 days. Each pic will have a caption above it explaining what I am showing.

8.8 axle mocked up underneath


perch difference


I am building an extra crossmember to hold my wishbone traction bar, I am tucking it up tight so I had to make a cutout for the back of the tcase.

crossmember for wishbone 1


2


3


well casing used for cutout


casing installed




center link bracket


tacked into place
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Old 02-07-2011, 11:33 PM   #117
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In the paint booth



start of wishbone


The bender


Ballistic joints for the wishbone
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Old 02-07-2011, 11:41 PM   #118
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On a side not check this out....here's the Spicer adaper people use to adapt an 8.8 into their jeep with two different d-shafts. The first one is identical to the shaft in this project and you can see that there is no way it will work with this joint as its way too large. In the second pic although blurry you can see the joint will work since the cross is over 1/4 inch smaller....btw the second one, is a 2.5 driveshaft. I have 9 shafts on my shelf and not a single 4.0 shaft will work with the adapter, but every 2.5 will. I had mentioned earlier that it wasn't wide enough, I was assbackwards...the joint is too wide. What am I gonna do? Not gonna run the 2.5 shaft thats for damn sure....stay tuned


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Old 02-07-2011, 11:46 PM   #119
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I'm still lost as to why your driveshaft isn't fitting.. My shaft was a 4.0...There all the same 1310 joint wether they were 4 or 6 cyl.. Just swap the problem joint out a standard 1310 and call it a day..
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Old 02-08-2011, 09:18 AM   #120
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I'm gonna get the calipers out tonight and measure every driveshaft I have and make some notes. I have no interest in going down in ujoint sizes....I'm thinking about swapping out the yoke on the rearend for something else that will be easier to fix if something happens.

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