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Old 12-05-2013, 01:38 PM   #1
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a ford 8.8

I have a ford 8.8 with LSD and dick breaks. I was told i will need to do something with my break system since i will be using more fluid with the disks breaks. Also i am looking into convert ion kits and think i found one. But i hear i will need a slip yoke eliminator kit for my axle and the guy said it runs like 200 bucks. But i have found adapter for about $50 Mountain Off-Road 221379 - M.O.R.E. Driveshaft Flange Adapter for Ford 8.8 Rear Axle - Quadratec. My real question is about what i will have to do with my break system and what i will need to do with my driveshaft and the yoke.

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Old 12-05-2013, 02:29 PM   #2
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also,will i be able to push my rear axle back by doing this?

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Old 12-05-2013, 03:00 PM   #3
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I haven't done anything to my master cylinder as far as an upgrade, and it works my Ford 8.8 disc brakes just fine. Some say you have to upgrade the master, and others don't.

The adapter that you have shown is for the axle yoke itself, it has nothing to do with the slip yoke, you will need this adapter to bolt your driveshaft to the 8.8. The slip yoke is on the back of the t-case, (other end of the rear driveshaft)

I did a slip yoke eliminator on mine as well as a Tom Woods CV shaft. Mainly because the 8.8 pinion sits about 2 inches off center towards the passenger side. So the drive shaft runs like this "\" all the time.

The slip yoke eliminator kit is about 200 bucks, add another 300 bucks for a good rear driveshaft, and your 50 dollar adapter for the rear pinion, lets not forget the new leaf spring mounts that need to be welded to the axle, as well as new shock mounts. So add another 50 for them. Then, if you want your E-brake to work, you can add another 250 for the cables to convert from jeep to ford. You also need a longer flexible brake line from the frame down to the axle, so add another 50 for that.

As far as your question about moving the rear back? Not with the lift that you have. The 8.8 in the stock position just barely clears the gas tank skid on my 87 and I have a 4" suspension lift. 1 other thing, your garage says you have a 2" lift and running 35" tires. I will have to call bullshit on this, unless it never goes anywhere but pavement.
I have a total of 8.5 inches of lift and my 35's rub when I flex it out.
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Old 12-05-2013, 03:04 PM   #4
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Yeah i was mistaken on my lift at the time I made this, its 4 inch lift haha
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Old 12-05-2013, 03:05 PM   #5
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rear axle can be pushed back. Im going to use the pring perches with 3 holes to just slightly move it back. the MORE adapter your looking it can be used, it just adds in another U-joint which is a ( bastard size ) . I have one on my rig. Another option is to use the driveshaft from the explorer, cut to length and add in the transmission end to it. If you desire o move it further back, should not be an issue.

Brakes ? some are using a proportioning valve. I haven't addressed this yet but I can tell you my front brakes are locked up hard before my rear does much of anything. I have heard something about removing a spring and something.....im assuming from inside your current proportioning valve......really not sure.

Be sure you set your angle correct before you weld on your new spring perches. driveshaft angle at the pumpkin should be 1 to 2 degrees less than coming off the transmission.
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Old 12-05-2013, 03:08 PM   #6
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And I found a convert ion kit for a good price Ford 8.8 Rear Axle Simple Swap (31 spline) - RuffStuff Specialties so then 200 for a SYE and 300 for a drive shaft and i should be good to go on installing this right? I have a welder and would be able to cut off the old perches myself, and as far as the e-brake, mine is broken right now, so it won't be the end of the world to not have that done right away, I'm in florida so no big hills i will have to park on haha.
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Old 12-05-2013, 03:08 PM   #7
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So right now I'm looking at about $680 in parts.
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Old 12-05-2013, 03:10 PM   #8
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I didn't do anything with my braking system when I swapped in my 8.8. The rear brakes actually feel like they do half of the stopping now. Feels great and I only need light pressure on the pedal to get it to stop easily. I expected brake issues with the swap but it was perfect.

Now, I have a 93 with factory ABS. It's disabled now. Not sure if that played a part in why the 8.8 brakes work so good.
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Old 12-05-2013, 04:35 PM   #9
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Don't buy the flange adapter separate just order it with the driveshaft if going the SYE route. When I ordered mine Tom Wood recommended they install it on the driveshaft so they can balance the driveshaft with it already attached, it was $349 shipped.
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Old 12-05-2013, 10:04 PM   #10
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Once complete check your brakes and if they seem fine to you and work leave them alone.

If they don't you can do a few things to improve the system. In the 8.8 threads I researched one calls for removing an o-ring in the proportioning valve.

I added a big double diaphragm booster and master I found on extreme terrain. I didn't exactly fit had to shave it around my clutch master. Then I got a proportioning valve from WJ and had to use a tee fitting to get the rears hooked up. I also had to have another custom fitting made to get it all hooked up. Way too much $$$ but I do have some kick ass brakes. Lock up 33s at 60 no problem and they feel as good as my F-150. But way tooo much $$$

There are several other threads that talk about other master cylinders from an E350 van or 79 Mercury Marquis.

The best advice is check them when your done and then decide the next bucket of worms.

Great advice on the flange have it installed with the shaft and then balanced.
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Old 12-05-2013, 10:29 PM   #11
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I just wanted to make sure this guy wasn't trying to just upsell me on stuff that isn't "required". So I'm going to get that conversion kit, the SYE, a yoke adapter, as well as a new driveshaft, oh and don't forget new break likes!! if there are any driveshafts or SYE that y'all recommend for a fair price let me know. I'm not looking to do this next week, but within the next few moths so i can start collecting these parts. To bad none of y'all are around me or we could tackle this axle and teach me some things alone the way
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Old 12-05-2013, 10:35 PM   #12
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also, What size SYE and what size slope adapter?
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Old 12-05-2013, 11:44 PM   #13
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The SYE is decided by transfer case I believe and don't know what you mean by slope adapter.

Driveshaft is easy Tom Woods in Utah Google his page. Look on the home page right if center grey banner technical info and sponsorships I believe great reading on driveline geometry a must for a YJ owner. Talked with Tom himself when I ordered my shaft.

I believe it was $310 to the door. And you really can't break them.

There is Adams Driveshaft here in Vegas I have a front shaft lockers and regear from them ask for Jim or John they will take good care of you.

I finished my 8.8 a couple if months ago no real big problems lots of the normal little stuff. It went in OK from what I read in all the threads and now no gear on the trails. I beat it up without worry. Locked with a Yukon Grizzly. Good road manners no issues on the trail about 2k miles now.
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Old 12-06-2013, 12:22 AM   #14
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I blew my 8.8 stock lsd with 31's, just as a heads up and a warning not to let your tires grab after not having any traction, check my build thread for the picture if you want
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Old 12-06-2013, 12:27 PM   #15
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Good luck on your info search (just helping to bump your thread)
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Old 12-06-2013, 12:54 PM   #16
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I have relied heavily on this link when dealing with my 8.8. You might find what you're looking for here too.

8.8 FACTS, OPINIONS & HOW-TO'S (F.A.Q.)
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Old 12-06-2013, 01:44 PM   #17
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So here are some pics
1. Is the front of the axle that connects to the driveshaft. Looks like try just cut off the driveshaft.

3. They cut the break lines 😔
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Old 12-09-2013, 02:13 PM   #18
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Any ideas how i can fix that rubber line for the breaks? its the 2nd to last pic
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Old 12-09-2013, 02:28 PM   #19
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Any ideas how i can fix that rubber line for the breaks? its the 2nd to last pic
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Old 12-09-2013, 02:42 PM   #20
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I used the fitting from my D-35 and just drilled and tapped the bolt hole. Ran new hard lines to my bump stops mounted a bracket and the rubbers to the calipers.

I can post pics tonight.
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Old 12-09-2013, 02:43 PM   #21
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and that fits on the 8.8? thanks a ton man.
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Old 12-09-2013, 07:58 PM   #22
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Here are the pics of the rear brake lines using my original tee fitting for the rears. Hope this helps.

The brackets I mounted on the bump stops most people will attach to the axle housing with a welder. But it works.



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Old 12-10-2013, 08:09 PM   #23
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I used stock Ford Explorer brake lines all the way to the frame on my jeep. The rubber line is the same thread as the hard line on the frame rail of the Jeep. The explorer rubber line is longer than a Jeep extended hose.
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Old 12-11-2013, 08:01 AM   #24
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i used stock ford explorer brake lines all the way to the frame on my jeep. The rubber line is the same thread as the hard line on the frame rail of the jeep. The explorer rubber line is longer than a jeep extended hose.
x2
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Old 12-11-2013, 08:15 AM   #25
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x2
X3
I just finished my swap last week end. used Ford brake lines and didn't do anything to my master cylinder. Brakes work great!! Now time to tackle the parking brake cables.
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Old 04-11-2014, 01:14 PM   #26
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I need a quick reply. Is a slip yoke eliminator required I I'm getting a new drive shaft?
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Old 04-11-2014, 01:36 PM   #27
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I need a quick reply. Is a slip yoke eliminator required I I'm getting a new drive shaft?
It's not required but it would be a good thing to have
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Old 04-11-2014, 02:59 PM   #28
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+1

If you need a new driveshaft for some reason, just go ahead and do the SYE and then get the appropriate double cardan driveshaft. There's no downside except for the cost. It's all upside
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Old 04-11-2014, 03:12 PM   #29
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Hmmm imma have to find a local shop that carries them.
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Old 04-15-2014, 10:02 PM   #30
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Ok I need some help pronto!!! Oh does anyone know how far I have to move the mounting brackets on this axle?! I have a re locating bracket kit.

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