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Old 08-19-2013, 02:29 PM   #1
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A New Project, Need Some Schooling:

Hey everyone, I picked up a 8.8 w/ 4.10's the other day and have some basic questions. I have been looking for one for months and this is the first one that was in good shape, rotated freely, had the same gear-ratio as my front D30, and has disk brakes. I have done some searching but non of my answers were YJ specific. I don't intend on installing this for a few years, but I want to prep it and work on it a bunch to get it in the best shape possible. So in the meantime I hope you can tolerate my noobness on the 8.8 since it's so foreign to me, thank you in advance. So, just to get to know the new axle assembly I took some pictures and just wanted to confirm what I'm looking at, before I start taking it apart and cleaning it up, thanks.



This sensor I'm guessing is for the ABS? Can I just remove the sensor and cap it? Also in this pic is the fill port right underneath that sensor? Should I fill it all the way up with fluid since it's in storage for the next year or two? What fluid would you recommend for my YJ? Also why is there 3 holes on the flat-flange next to the pinion housing?







I have no idea what the bracket is facing the camera. But the bracket on the right is the spring-pack bracket. I need to grind both of these off correct?






I'm guessing this was the E-brake cable before it was cut?





Dead center of camera with the wet area, is this the axle vent port? Should there be a hose on this fitting?


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Old 08-19-2013, 03:15 PM   #2
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I think that bracket is for the sway bar. Im a noob when it comes to 8.8s too lmao

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Old 08-19-2013, 03:38 PM   #3
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Yes, it is the bracket for the sway bar.
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Old 08-19-2013, 03:55 PM   #4
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Yes you can chuck the ABS sensor and cap the hole, but I would just leave it, good luck finding a cap...
Sway Bar bushing mount, cut them off too...
Yup, the cable got cut...
AND, yes thats the diff vent, there should be a hose there, run a new much longer one with a PCV valve on the end (air out, nothin in) especially if you're going to get the thing wet...
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:16 PM   #5
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Thanks for the answers fellas. Will I be re-using the sway bar bracket again or do I need a completely new one like the spring pack bracket? I know technically I don't need a sway-bar but should I worry about keeping that feature for the swap?

Also what kind of diff fluid should I run for 32's and mild-off road use / highway use? Is there an advantage to conventional oil vs synthetic?
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:44 PM   #6
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You don't need a rear sway bar it is a waste of time. All previous answers about the brackets and vents are correct. I just did my 8.8 swap and loving it. Is it an LSD or open diff. this matters when it comes to fluid choices.



Attachment 288009

Get this kit, I did and it was the cheapest. But I assure you it's put together well!

Also ensure you weld the tubes like I did for more strength.

Attachment 288007
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Old 08-20-2013, 01:14 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by AllMudd View Post
You don't need a rear sway bar it is a waste of time. All previous answers about the brackets and vents are correct. I just did my 8.8 swap and loving it. Is it an LSD or open diff. this matters when it comes to fluid choices.

Get this kit, I did and it was the cheapest. But I assure you it's put together well!

Also ensure you weld the tubes like I did for more strength.
Thanks man I'm sure I'll be PM'ing you a bunch when I start working on it lol. It's an open diff by the way, I heard they were a better candidate for a locker upgrade.

Why did you weld the tubes again? Is that a common problem with them snapping in that location? Did you weld that yourself it looks great.
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Old 08-20-2013, 08:08 AM   #8
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No problem, the open diff is better if your going for a spartan, lock rite lockers. But doesn't matter if your going for Detroit, ARB or OX lockers. Any gear oil should work good. I would be worried a out synthetic until you lock it but that's up to you. But then I would choose something that works for you.

I welded the tubes there because the stock 3 push pins that hold the axle tubes in can break free then you have the axle housing spinning and that's no good. And I wish I welded it myself. I had a good buddy of mine help me out.
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:11 PM   #9
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:24 PM   #10
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Ha!
That's twice wasomma! I've been looking for that link again so I could post it and you beat me to it again lol.
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Old 08-20-2013, 08:05 PM   #11
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Thanks for the article post, I've read through this several times before I bought the axle it has a lot of good info. Half of it doesn't apply to my YJ because this guy welded the spring-pack brackets and shock-mounts for a SOA configuration, but there's a lot of good stuff in here lol.

I've also read that to weld the axle tubes requires a "specific" type of weld, do you know what that means?
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Old 08-20-2013, 09:25 PM   #12
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A weld is a weld. Might be referring to using a specific welder so it does not heat up too much. Or might refer to being welded twice, once to fill the small gap and a 2nd to ensure its seated well.
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Old 08-21-2013, 01:55 AM   #13
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A weld is a weld. Might be referring to using a specific welder so it does not heat up too much. Or might refer to being welded twice, once to fill the small gap and a 2nd to ensure its seated well.
I think it might have something to do with the center-hub being cast-steel, that it's more likely to crack under the extreme heat. That's just my guess though lol.

I remember welding something in Metal-4 that was cast-steel and we had to put it in a bucket of sand because it would crack if it cooled down too fast. I'll have to call around and ask a couple welders, thanks again man.

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