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Old 03-24-2012, 08:11 AM   #31
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I did. i ran a 12ga power and ground to the inside of the jeep on a good ground. I probably could have gotten away with 14ga but....

IIRC they pull about 8 amps a piece. I also at first had them on seperate relays but once I figured the amperage then 1 30a relay was more than enough.

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Old 03-24-2012, 08:17 AM   #32
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There is no.reason to run such large wires into the jeep. The trigger side of the wire only needs to carry enough power to trip the relay. I have cat5 cable run which is like 28 gauge wire for my relays.

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Old 03-24-2012, 10:20 AM   #33
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I always go big on wire. First thing I do when installing a stereo is replace all the speaker wire with 10guage. My power wire under the hood is almost never less than 4 guage, and prefferably 0 guage.

Its true that using 18guage might be "enough" however using quality thicker guage wires just ensures the flow is flowing.

When installing stereo's with amp's you sometimes will get a draw down on your electrical system causing the lights to dim. The first thing to begin to eliminate that issue is to upgrade the "big 3" The Engine, and body ground, and Alternator charging wire to 0 guage. Simply increasing the guage of the wire stops the draw down.
How?
Flow of electricity, before the upgrade the stock power wire could not support the needed flow of electricity.

I know I got a little technical on it, but this is why I say never be afraid to go Big on wiring!
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:30 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Master4th
I always go big on wire. First thing I do when installing a stereo is replace all the speaker wire with 10guage. My power wire under the hood is almost never less than 4 guage, and prefferably 0 guage.

Its true that using 18guage might be "enough" however using quality thicker guage wires just ensures the flow is flowing.

When installing stereo's with amp's you sometimes will get a draw down on your electrical system causing the lights to dim. The first thing to begin to eliminate that issue is to upgrade the "big 3" The Engine, and body ground, and Alternator charging wire to 0 guage. Simply increasing the guage of the wire stops the draw down.
How?
Flow of electricity, before the upgrade the stock power wire could not support the needed flow of electricity.

I know I got a little technical on it, but this is why I say never be afraid to go Big on wiring!
While what you say is true on the wire that powers the amp alternator and the grounding wire for the chassis. The trigger wire for a relay only closes the coil and needs little current to do so 18ga is plenty big enough for a 30 amp automotive relay and even that is overkill. Plus it is much easier to run and hide an 18 GA than a 12ga or 0ga if its not necicary. The wires that run power to the relay and on to the lights should be 16ga-12ga as they carry the current to the load (lights).
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:43 AM   #35
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Not to take away from the wire discussion...but this guy right here is still waiting for nighttime pictures...lol
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:54 AM   #36
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There is no.reason to run such large wires into the jeep. The trigger side of the wire only needs to carry enough power to trip the relay. I have cat5 cable run which is like 28 gauge wire for my relays.
I'm not tallking trigger side. On my relay side it's just 18 ga. The 12-14 is for the load and the fused feed side of the relay

If your running 8amps thru 22-24 ga wire your asking for trouble
.

Cat five is solid conductor wire too which IMHO is not good for automotive applications. Do what you want though.
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:55 AM   #37
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Not to take away from the wire discussion...but this guy right here is still waiting for nighttime pictures...lol

I still need to get some.... LOL
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Old 03-24-2012, 01:07 PM   #38
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I'm sorry I must have misunderstood. I thought you said you ran the heavy gauge wire into the cab. Is your relay in the cab?


Cat 5 cable is a bundle of 8 smaller stranded wires. It's fairly common to use cat 5 cables to run 8 wires easily that will be used for relay triggers.
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Old 03-24-2012, 01:09 PM   #39
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And I can't say for sure but I don't believe an automotive relay requires anywhere near 8 amps to activate the coil
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Old 03-24-2012, 04:27 PM   #40
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I'm sorry I must have misunderstood. I thought you said you ran the heavy gauge wire into the cab. Is your relay in the cab?


Cat 5 cable is a bundle of 8 smaller stranded wires. It's fairly common to use cat 5 cables to run 8 wires easily that will be used for relay triggers.
No, my relay is under the hood right next to my battery. I know very well what cat 5 is, been a phone guy for 16 years. I've just never seen it used in an automotive application. I did have to run the 12ga wire from the load side of the relay into the cab so that i could run it up to the lights. I also ran in a 18 ga trigger wire to the switch as well as a 18ga 12v fused constant hot also for the switch.

Like I said though I could have gotten away with 14ga for the light feeds but had 200ft of 12ga and no 14ga so I just used it.

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And I can't say for sure but I don't believe an automotive relay requires anywhere near 8 amps to activate the coil
It only takes a few miliamps to activate the coil, the heavy side is where the amperage runs, thus the coil side to the smaller gauge(switch wire) and the heavier gauge to the feed and load sides. The load in this case being 8amps per light or 16amps total on the relay.
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Old 03-24-2012, 11:05 PM   #41
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-Whats the point in wiring in a coil? wire not just wire in a regular switch?

-With the answer to that question, in a simple wiring diagram how are ya'll wiring in a coil?
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:45 AM   #42
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We are referring to the the coil in a relay. Just use a standard automotive relay like you normally.l would.
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Old 03-25-2012, 12:33 PM   #43
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I grapped some pics really quick and made a quick diagram. There are other ways to do this but this will work....

Relays can also use ground for the trigger. I had a lighted switch so thats why i used the 12v method to the switch.

The relays pictured are the same only one has the metal mounting tab. The can also be wired normally closed but I wired them normally open so the 87a will have 12 volt constant on it fyi.

I also used a relay pigtail for easy plug and play on the trail.









Please excuse my 3yr old paint skills. LOL!
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Old 03-25-2012, 12:44 PM   #44
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Cool that's nice. I am working on my light bar today.it's going over the top of the windshield. I am mounting six of these lights on there. Two of the 4509 landing lights( pencil type beam) and four of the 4509 spot lamps( more spread pattern) all the 100Watt aircraft landing lights. I will post up pics as soon as I get progress.

I'm thinking I will wire them up in pairs with three relays and three switches.

What's everyone's thoughts on this plan??
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Old 03-25-2012, 01:04 PM   #45
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That sounds good for sure. They pull about 8 amps a peice so 2 per realy is great.

I was looking at the 4700's IIRC they have a spot and flood in the same par 36 housing....
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Old 03-25-2012, 01:06 PM   #46
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Cool that's nice. I am working on my light bar today.it's going over the top of the windshield. I am mounting six of these lights on there. Two of the 4509 landing lights( pencil type beam) and four of the 4509 spot lamps( more spread pattern) all the 100Watt aircraft landing lights. I will post up pics as soon as I get progress.

I'm thinking I will wire them up in pairs with three relays and three switches.

What's everyone's thoughts on this plan??
Just curious, what is your mounting pattern for pencils vs spreads?
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:37 PM   #47
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Just curious, what is your mounting pattern for pencils vs spreads?

what do you mean by mounting pattern??
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Old 03-25-2012, 03:39 PM   #48
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That sounds good for sure. They pull about 8 amps a peice so 2 per realy is great.

I was looking at the 4700's IIRC they have a spot and flood in the same par 36 housing....


what are they? i didnt come up with anything in a search...
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Old 03-25-2012, 05:34 PM   #49
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what are they? i didnt come up with anything in a search...
4700 13V 100/100W Sealed Beam PAR36 Spot/Flood Lamp

Spot and flood bulbs.
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Old 03-25-2012, 07:50 PM   #50
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what do you mean by mounting pattern??
Picture positions one through six across the mount. How do you have the pencils vs spreads positioned? Pencils outboard with spreads inboard; spreads outboard and inboard with pencils in the two and five position? Etc.
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:19 AM   #51
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Picture positions one through six across the mount. How do you have the pencils vs spreads positioned? Pencils outboard with spreads inboard; spreads outboard and inboard with pencils in the two and five position? Etc.


I am not sure what I want to do with them yet. I have the light bar done I'm just waiting now to get more lights in the mail. Found a good deal on Amazon for 6$ per light if anyone wants to get some. The bulbs are relatively cheap too. I
For mounting, I think I will put floods on the outer two aiming out more. Then next in the two pencils. Then two more floods in the center.

Just my first idea. Might set it up different.
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Old 03-26-2012, 03:00 AM   #52
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Thanks. Looking forward to night pics.
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:10 PM   #53
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Does Napa Have the housings? whats the part number?

I looked up the 4509s and they are referenced under a sealed lowbeam lights? is that right?
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Old 03-26-2012, 12:12 PM   #54
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sorry for no night pics, i havent been out of the city lights enough at night recently to show off the lights. maybe me and the gf will take a ride across the mtn this weekend if its nice and i'll snap some pics.

in other news, i wired mine exactly like the pic. i THINK i used 16ga? wire, but its been a few years, so i honestly cant remember off the top of my head.

glad everyone is getting some use from this idea. the bulbs are just so cheap and Par36's are so versatile you can change bulbs to fit your need relatively easily. i cant wait to see this light bar
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:09 PM   #55
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Does Napa Have the housings? whats the part number?

I looked up the 4509s and they are referenced under a sealed lowbeam lights? is that right?
I got mine at napa. I can't recall the part number. I'll check thru my papers.

Its a trucklight rubber par 36 housing. The parts guys should be able to find it. My napa had them and the bulbs in stock.
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:22 PM   #56
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my napa had the housings on the shelf. just tell the guy at the counter you want a "par 36 bulb housing" he should be able to find it for ya
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:49 AM   #57
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I grapped a few night shots a work.

Just headlights...



Headlights and 4509's...



Just 4509's...




Random...


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Old 03-27-2012, 07:19 AM   #58
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Very nice. When i'm ready to do fog lights im going to do those.
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Old 03-27-2012, 07:34 AM   #59
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They look great!
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Old 03-27-2012, 09:35 AM   #60
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Thanks!

I am contemplating doing 2 more with the 4700 spot/flood bulbs in the front close to the grill. They are small so tuck in nicely.

That would actually give me 4 more lights in 2 housings.

I like where these are mounted because I can reach out and move them where I want them for whatever situation i'm in. Kinda nice there for sure.

Not bad for under $50 total.

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