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Old 07-09-2013, 07:14 PM   #1
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And so it begins.

I sold my 97 TJ 4 liter which was a tank with the reliability of a '70s Volvo. Just bought a '93 YJ 2.5 and I think everything that can be wrong is wrong. It's time to sink some money into it to get it drivable.

Issue 1: either the battery is really toast or the alternator is shot and it killed the battery. Even after charging the battery, it doesn't have enough juice to turn over. I've never changed an alternator before but I wouldn't imagine it would be too hard. I have the Haynes manual and basic tools. Any simple way to figure out whether its the alt vs battery? If it is the alt, is this something I should be able to do?

Issue #2. The tires are wobbling at times. The tires are pretty close to needing to be swapped. I figure once I get it running, I will take it into the shop and let them check the tires. Could this be a sign of something more serious?

Issue #3. It's loud and sounds like it is having an exhaust issue. Not sure if this is related but top speed on this thing is about 60 mph.

Issue #4. Speedometer is all over the place. The needle moves wildly while driving. Along with that, the plastic cover that covers the gauges is off. Some of the gauges appear to work fine but the oil gauge is stuck on the far right. What's the simplest solution to have a dependable speedometer and oil gauge.

Issue #5. It's by far not the last issue but these issues will keep me occupied for quite a while. There is an oil leak at the rear main seal. After researching it, it looks like it is quite a chore for the 2.5 YJ. I got a recommendation for a mechanic and took it to him. He's the one that told me about the rms leak. He said that he wasn't going to fix it because the engine created the groove that caused the leak and to fix it isn't worth the trouble because within a week to a month, the rms will begin to leak again. I thought that sounded odd and in researching it, no members said anything like that. Don't plan on going to that mechanic again. They stuck some Lucas Oil treatment in there and called it a day.

Sorry for being such a newb. Any help is appreciated. I wanted and older one to work in and learn some things. I guess the motto is be careful what you wish for.

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Old 07-09-2013, 07:28 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acidhouse View Post
I sold my 97 TJ 4 liter which was a tank with the reliability of a '70s Volvo. Just bought a '93 YJ 2.5 and I think everything that can be wrong is wrong. It's time to sink some money into it to get it drivable.

Issue 1: either the battery is really toast or the alternator is shot and it killed the battery. Even after charging the battery, it doesn't have enough juice to turn over. I've never changed an alternator before but I wouldn't imagine it would be too hard. I have the Haynes manual and basic tools. Any simple way to figure out whether its the alt vs battery? If it is the alt, is this something I should be able to do?

Issue #2. The tires are wobbling at times. The tires are pretty close to needing to be swapped. I figure once I get it running, I will take it into the shop and let them check the tires. Could this be a sign of something more serious?

Issue #3. It's loud and sounds like it is having an exhaust issue. Not sure if this is related but top speed on this thing is about 60 mph.

Issue #4. Speedometer is all over the place. The needle moves wildly while driving. Along with that, the plastic cover that covers the gauges is off. Some of the gauges appear to work fine but the oil gauge is stuck on the far right. What's the simplest solution to have a dependable speedometer and oil gauge.

Issue #5. It's by far not the last issue but these issues will keep me occupied for quite a while. There is an oil leak at the rear main seal. After researching it, it looks like it is quite a chore for the 2.5 YJ. I got a recommendation for a mechanic and took it to him. He's the one that told me about the rms leak. He said that he wasn't going to fix it because the engine created the groove that caused the leak and to fix it isn't worth the trouble because within a week to a month, the rms will begin to leak again. I thought that sounded odd and in researching it, no members said anything like that. Don't plan on going to that mechanic again. They stuck some Lucas Oil treatment in there and called it a day.

Sorry for being such a newb. Any help is appreciated. I wanted and older one to work in and learn some things. I guess the motto is be careful what you wish for.
Issue #1 change the battery. The alt has nothing to do with it not being able to turn over. It only charges the battery and system while running.

Issue #2 could be wheel balance or worn from hubs, ball joints.

Issue #3 top speed will be close to 60. Loud noise can be anywhere from he manifold all the way to the muffler and even the muffler.

Issue #4 sorry not sure....anyone else have an idea?

Issue #5 the RMS just being replaced would probably be enough. But Autozone sells oil leak finders. It's a dye that you stick in the oil and it shows up under uv light. They have the kit for $30, buy it and check again. That mechanic didn't sound reliable at all.

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Old 07-09-2013, 07:52 PM   #3
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Issue 4 I had with mine I took the gauge clusters out and cleaned up all the connections used some dielectric grease on em cleaned off all the dirt and crud off the backside and it worked like a champ after that and the oil gauge could be a bad pressure sending unit in the engine compartment
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Old 07-09-2013, 10:50 PM   #4
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Issue 1...... BEFORE you buy a new battery...... clean EVERY single connection down to BRIGHT SHINY METAL.......from your battery all the way down to starter. I have seen this issue 100s of times cause just your problem.

To ACTUALLY answer your question...... get it running and with a VOLTMETER (or multimeter set on DC Volts) check across your battery with EVERY accessory turned on (lights, wipers, heater blower, etc) the voltmeter should reads 12.5 volts OR higher (not TOO high....15Volts maxish)..... if it does..... battery issue (if cleaned contacts).... if it does not...... possible loose/shiny/glazed belt.... possible bad alternator.
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Old 07-10-2013, 12:23 AM   #5
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Top speed for my 2.5 is around 80 with stock wheels. 3000 RPM's at 70 MPH and I know my speed is right because of a Cal Trans speed meter on a road few miles from where I live. 3K RPM's is healthy for a 4 banger imo.
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Old 07-10-2013, 01:12 AM   #6
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It's quite a difference from old 4.0 TJ. I travelled 85 to 90 in it religiously and it wasn't straining. I do think there is something wrong with either the cat or fuel lines. It's not so much that it was topped out at 60 as so much of how unresponsive it was. I would push the pedal down and it just lagged. This was on flat asphalt. It was really loud and I half expected it to start backfiring. It just had that sound engines do when they are prone to backfire.
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Old 07-10-2013, 02:24 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Acidhouse View Post
It's quite a difference from old 4.0 TJ. I travelled 85 to 90 in it religiously and it wasn't straining. I do think there is something wrong with either the cat or fuel lines. It's not so much that it was topped out at 60 as so much of how unresponsive it was. I would push the pedal down and it just lagged. This was on flat asphalt. It was really loud and I half expected it to start backfiring. It just had that sound engines do when they are prone to backfire.
Is the loud noise like a flapping noise? If so then you could have the same problem as me which is a crack in the exhaust and intake manifold gaskets
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Old 07-10-2013, 08:30 AM   #8
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I don't know if it is making a flapping sound. It sounds like an old, early 70s bug missing the muffler.
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Old 07-10-2013, 05:43 PM   #9
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Okay, now it's issue #6. The pic below shows the belt off kilter. I am pretty sure I can get it back on straight but any reason why it was off like this to begin with? Once I get it on, I plan on running the engine for a little bit and seeing if it works its way off again.

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...g?t=1373492422
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Old 07-10-2013, 06:14 PM   #10
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Quote:
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Okay, now it's issue #6. The pic below shows the belt off kilter. I am pretty sure I can get it back on straight but any reason why it was off like this to begin with? Once I get it on, I plan on running the engine for a little bit and seeing if it works its way off again.

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...g?t=1373492422
Just make sure there's no loose slack and everything is tight and you shouldn't have a problem and my 89 2.5 is real loud right now cu of the crack in the exhaust and intake manifold gaskets as well as a hole in the exhaust pipe if I were you I'd go to a muffler shop and just have them check for leaks
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Old 07-13-2013, 08:34 PM   #11
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Update:


Went to the local auto parts store. Got a battery, wires, and plugs. I think it took me longer to replace the front plug than it did for all the wires, battery change, and other three plugs. Managed to leave some of my blood on the engine. That puts me at blood and sweat, tears are probably not far behind.

It cranked fine and sounded a little better but was still very sluggish and backfired around 2500 to 3000 rpms. The worse part was I drove it around the neighborhood. Couldn't get it to turn in the cul-de-sac. The tires wobbled badly. I was going about 1mph so I'm guessing that isn't good. Definitely not a balance issue. Only way to get around was to do a five point turn. I could turn my TJ on a dime. Tomorrow I will use the key trick and run the codes (engine light is lit up). Probably after that I will be going back to the auto parts store to change the distributor cap and O2 sensor.
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Old 07-14-2013, 10:07 AM   #12
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Best advice on #1...replace the four battery cables making sure they are of adequate gauge. Positives to starter and fuse box, negatives to engine block and firewall. It is a cheap fix...old cables corrode and have very high resistance. If the battery will not load test replace it as well.
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Old 07-14-2013, 11:11 AM   #13
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You would be amazed at what a difference a new intake/exhaust gasket will do!
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:02 AM   #14
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Latest update is that issue #1 is fixed via a new battery. I replaced the plugs and wires and the jeep is much more responsive but still a little sluggish and backfires. I took a look underneath at the exhaust and the muffler is pretty rusty. It has also rusted through where the muffler meets the exhaust pipe. I'm guessing that is a lot of my issue right there. Left front tire is going flat. Also, I think the PO put 32 inch tires without any lift. It's possible there is some rubbing. I have three out of four TJ flares left from when I replaced my flares. Are the back TJ flares bolt on with the YJ back flares? They look like they would give a little more room to the back tires.

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