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Old 04-26-2014, 03:01 AM   #1
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another reason to hate a 3" body lift

So, I have a 1990 YJ. Over the years the fuel tank lines (fill and vent) had become dry rotted and cracked. Gas leaked all over the ground when trying to fill the tank. I got both lines brand new from MORRIS 4X4 (Awesome servie, shipping and inventory BTW). I instaledl them and got them clamped to the filler neck and tank like they should be. Went to attach the filler neck back to the recessed cup deal on the back of the jeep. Guess what.... Thanks to the 3" body lift the PO had put on, with the lines properly clamped in place they wont reach!!!!

So....QUESTION....You guys with self installed 3" body lifts, What did you do to get the gas filler neck back up the the mounting bucket deal??

Any hellp would be appreciated

Curt

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CURT. 1990 YJ. 4.6L stroker 31x10.50 fallen all terrains on chromed steel wheels. 3" body lift MC 2150 and lift coming soon.
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Old 04-26-2014, 03:05 AM   #2
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sorry i posted in yj forum and yj tech forum...didnt realize it would show up in both anyway

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CURT. 1990 YJ. 4.6L stroker 31x10.50 fallen all terrains on chromed steel wheels. 3" body lift MC 2150 and lift coming soon.
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Old 04-26-2014, 10:38 AM   #3
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If it were me I'd ditch the 3" lift. Only option is to go have some standard hose cut for the length you need.
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Old 04-26-2014, 11:31 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reno92 View Post
If it were me I'd ditch the 3" lift. Only option is to go have some standard hose cut for the length you need.
I agree with Reno about ditching the body lift if you can.
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Old 04-26-2014, 04:29 PM   #5
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that is in the plan....just not financially possible at the current time
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CURT. 1990 YJ. 4.6L stroker 31x10.50 fallen all terrains on chromed steel wheels. 3" body lift MC 2150 and lift coming soon.
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Old 04-27-2014, 12:56 AM   #6
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I had the same problem . Solved it by buying a radiator hose that had the same two different sizes on the ends that my tank and filler neck had. Not sure how long it will hold up but has been over two year ago.
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Old 04-27-2014, 04:25 AM   #7
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thanks

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I had the same problem . Solved it by buying a radiator hose that had the same two different sizes on the ends that my tank and filler neck had. Not sure how long it will hold up but has been over two year ago.
well i got the 2 hoses clamped on at the ends of the necks (barely) and it APPEARS it is gonna work. as soon as i can afford a daysrat 1" body lift im gonna do that since the body bushing are close to being shot too.
i thought about radiator hose but got advised against it by a mechanic buddy of mine. may do it anyway just so i dont screw up the factory length shaped hoses.
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CURT. 1990 YJ. 4.6L stroker 31x10.50 fallen all terrains on chromed steel wheels. 3" body lift MC 2150 and lift coming soon.
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Old 04-27-2014, 08:48 AM   #8
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no problems with mine,,,,the po had put on a 4inch suspension lift and 3 inch body lift.
i planned on removeing the 3 inch bl because of all the negative feedback that i have read on here but i cant say anything bad about it at all..my other yj just had 4 inch suspension and new body mounts with no lift..
but with this set up i have been in some frame breaking and tricky situations several times with no ill issues at all,,,i actually liked that it had the 3 inch bl when i replaced my fuel pump made it easy to remove and put back up..also i like being able to wash my frame after mudding..no trapped junk between the frame and body...
if bad stuff happens and its because of the 3 inch bl i will post it up..
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Old 04-27-2014, 08:56 PM   #9
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well my body bushings going south so the plan is to put daystar 1" BL in and trash the 3". but for now i think im gonna use some heater core hose as a temp fix till i can get the 3" BL out.
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CURT. 1990 YJ. 4.6L stroker 31x10.50 fallen all terrains on chromed steel wheels. 3" body lift MC 2150 and lift coming soon.
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Old 04-28-2014, 09:33 AM   #10
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I run a 3 in body lift on mine no problems. Runs and drives great still have not figured why every body cries about a 3 in body lift.I see nothing wrong with it.Will not get rid of mine. Let them cry about body lift. It is mine I do what I want.Don't listen to all the WHINERS
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Old 04-28-2014, 09:26 PM   #11
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I put on body lifts al the time. I don't remember the part #'s, but you should be able to go to a NAPA with the stock hoses, and find some that will work.
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Old 04-28-2014, 10:17 PM   #12
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Body lifts just look so goofy!
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Old 04-29-2014, 10:11 PM   #13
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I ran 4 in sprung under and 3 in body lift , loved it, know I'm sprung over still have the 3 inch body lift, ---3" wider than stock and 37 off camber side hills are a little hairy, thinking of a 1 inch body lift,
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Old 04-30-2014, 06:21 AM   #14
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Quote:
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Body lifts just look so goofy!
X2 you can spot the big ones a mile away. a good 1" like daystar or prothane is ok but 3" is just wrong.
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Old 04-30-2014, 06:00 PM   #15
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sooo is a 3inch bl just a look bad thing..then everyone that has a body color that i dont like should just repaint untill the rest of us like it..hmmm

or the shiny gun that looks great when you shw your buddies but when what your after with it see,s it a mile away and runs for there life better than the dull mat finish that has no glare to signal your there with a weapon...humm

all im getting at is it seems that the only negative issues is aperance,,,,im not a fan of the big fanged shackle look when someone only puts on a shackle lift,,but thats there,s who am i to say negative junk about being buck toothed if thats all they can afford to do.

as for now i still have no bad issues with a 4 inch suspension lift and 3 inch body lift,,it works great and easy to keep clean and inspect for damage that may happen while out wheeling,,which i do every single day wheather it be just climbing the pipeline and ridge running or getting a little crazy on some roll over a 500ft cliff kinda stuff..

if and when i do build another i will go with a 4inch sprung over on 1in daystares with a tummy tuck powered by either a diesle or v8,,---but thats down the road..
just had to relight the fire on the body lift thing...
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with trail rash..and getting 25mpg,s
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Old 04-30-2014, 06:30 PM   #16
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once you go with a 2-3" body lift it puts a lot of strain on the mounts and bolts. there was a post on the other forum awhile back with pics showing the pucks cracking and breaking through the floor.
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Old 05-01-2014, 08:42 AM   #17
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i will keep an eye out for that,,but so far mine are in great condition and they have been on there for several years..
thanks for some real info.
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with trail rash..and getting 25mpg,s
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:21 AM   #18
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I think the bigger concern is physics. Lifting a jeep raises your center of gravity, but it's worse when you also move the weight of the body, interior, and driver/passenger up off the frame. Think of it as a breaker bar, pull on a 6" wrench it takes some effort, add a 24" breaker bar and it's simple. Take a 150# weight and put it on your roof, then go off road, or on, and feel the difference how a top heavy vehicle reacts, especially when off camber. We all build our jeeps for our own purpose and likes, I won't argue your right to build it your way, but when asked my opinion I'll always suggest a maximum 1" body lift, 1" shackle lift (for a different reason) and as low of suspension lift to accommodate your tire size and articulation needs. I run 35" tires with a 5 inch suspension lift, a 5/8 shackle lift, and some trimming.
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Old 05-02-2014, 06:03 AM   #19
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i agree with that also reno......i live in very syeep and hilly area of eastern ky and have been sideways on some steep hills that look like they would flip a ford focus but have had no problems...and i like the way u have built your rig..
like i said in my first post i bought the jeep this way and had planned on removing the bl but have found no reason to yet,,and im liking it up off the frame,,,keeping a good clean frame is easy and its a veery pretty frame....lol
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with trail rash..and getting 25mpg,s
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Old 05-02-2014, 09:59 AM   #20
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body lift should be 1.5 inches max, if you want real lift get a suspension one
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Old 05-02-2014, 11:40 PM   #21
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I put a 2" body lift in order to clear a set of 35" tires. I don't plan to go rock crawling so it works for me.
As far as the gas hoses, I sectioned a piece of copper tubing between the tank and the filler cap (1" for the fill & 3/4" for the vent as I remember). It required a bit of fileing to open up the hoses to accept the copper but I have no leaks or any other problems. Naturally I clamped both ends of both additions. I tried several auto parts stores to get a hose with different sized ends but couldn't find anything that would work. Good Luck.

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