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Aussie install in dana 30

2K views 30 replies 10 participants last post by  MudMagnetYJ 
#1 ·
I just got my Aussie for the Dana 30...instructions are pretty weak. I've seen videos that the carrier does not need to be pulled and axle shafts can stay in place..am I correct or what? Anyone have any insight on this? Also, it did not come with the pinion shaft. Apparently some of their kits do but not this one.
 
#4 ·
Thanks you guys, no air tools here...yet. the axle is sitting on jack stands right now so I was hoping to do it without too much disassembly. If I pull the carrier, is lock tie used for the bearing retainer straps or just torque to spec?
 
#3 ·
I pulled the shafts and carrier. Much easier. As to the cross pin, no Aussie's come with it. Only Spartans. Once the carrier is out, it takes 5 minutes to put in.
 
#7 ·
I did my Spartan under the car, and on it the axles did not have to be pulled all the way out, C-clip's and just slid them some and then back in after axle gear part was in.
 
#8 ·
Well..I removed the diff cover and drained the fluid, sprayed it out and noticed a roll pin securing the shaft holding the spider gears. Am I wrong that this can only come out by removing the carrier and ring gear? Can't see any other way.
 
#11 ·
Pull the carrier and shafts and also replace the seals while you are in there.

Even better...install a 1-piece passenger shaft to bypass the CAD while you have everything disassembled.
Thats the ultimate plan but time is not on my side. I did do the cad mod(slid the fork over and reinserted clip). I guess I'm pulling the carrier.
 
#12 ·
Removed shafts and carrier..since my resources are limited I made a wooden stand and c-clamped it to an old dresser top to break the ring bolts free from the carrier. High tech lol.

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#17 ·
Well, I installed the Aussie in the carrier and cross shaft is in along with roll pin. Just out of curiosity I tried rotating it by hand. Pretty dumb I guess but assuming I need A LOT more leverage for it to move, correct? I shouldn't be able to move it right? I'm assuming once in the housing and wheels are on, this will change. First time doing this so just want to be sure before I button this up.
 
#20 ·
True. The directions leave a lot to be desired. I'm sure you did it right though. If I remember right, it won't all fit together unless it's the right way.
 
#21 ·
Hi Guys!

Any tips on how we could improve our instruction manuals? A revision has been on my to-do list for a while. IMO it's a bit too heavy on the engineering, and light on the photos. I'm also working on a quick, to-the-point install video, would that be more helpful when in the shop?

~Cora
 
#22 ·
Part of my job is to write, document, critique, and review technical write-ups. It's generally regarded as a thankless job - but very necessary in my field of work. I started doing it in 1977 when I was working full time in the off road industry (I worked for Rancho, Mickey Thompson, and a few other popular off road companies). I no longer do it full time for the off road industry - but I still do it as part of my profession for the government & military customers.

Instructions should be written in a step-by-step simple chronological order to include potential tools necessary or deemed critical, along with consumables, torque specs, tolerances, markings etc.

Quality pictures with number pointers and description list are often critical.

List/provide a Tech Hot Line & hours of operation including time zone.

Get a non-tech associate to do the job using your draft instructions. Test them out & witness the process of a non-tech person go through the entire process, step-by-step while gathering notes along the way. Do this at least twice with the draft instructions.

If steps are not explained well - and quality pics aren't provided for a novice, the instructions will suck.
 
#23 ·
#24 ·
I haven't installed one in a while, but I remember wanting better pictures. Detailed pics with labels pointing to parts would be nice.

I really like Joe's idea about having a non-tech person use your instructions to install one.
 
#25 ·
Cora, I've installed a few Aussie lockers (probably 10-15). First one was about 6-8 years ago in a friends HPD30 in his YJ. I reviewed & followed the instructions that came with the kit (or perhaps he printed them from an online source). They seemed pretty good at the time. All the others I helped do, I did not use the instructions since I was familiar with the ones I first looked at & followed.

The instructions link you posted doesn't look familiar.
 
#27 ·
Thanks for the tips guys!! We will definitely take your comments into consideration.....
Might be a good video opportunity, have an axle on a stand, hand the instructions to someone with no mechanical ability (my brother-in-law comes to mind, haha), then have them install the locker! Would probably have to pull the axle shaft for them, but after that it's pretty easy.
 
#28 ·
Finally!! Out with old and in with donor axle. I decided to leave springs attached and slide axle out the side and slide new one into place over locating pins

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. U bolts torqued( will recheck under load), shocks reinstalled. Tie rod ends need replacement, boots are torn.
 
#30 ·
With about a week of driving, my inner axle seals seem to be sealing and the CAD delete with 1 piece shaft conversion works great! Also, no clicking noticed from the Aussie? If it is, I can't hear it! Very happy so far, especially since I'm a 1 person operation.😀 Now, I think I need a fuel tank skid before the Rubicon in Aug. Can't wait.

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#31 ·
My front lunchbox made night and day difference on the trail. Kept up with open diffs on 35s and locked rear on 37s. I've never had doubts with my fuel tank skid plate, but I was driving home yesterday behind a TJ in our group and he ripped up his skid plate, it was hanging off. I'm not sure how he didn't puncture the tank.
 
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