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Old 06-19-2013, 11:10 AM   #1
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Axle Nut

Ok guys so I have a bad seal in the front axle I know this because it is leaking oil around the driver side front tire small amount but enough to make me want to fix it.

I have started to take it apart and have the inner axle seal and bushing.


Problem is that dang axle nut is stuck. I have sprayed it liberally for 2 days now with PB blaster and I have a 18 inch Half inch drive with a 2 foot piece of bar on it and I can stand on the dang thing and it will not move I am pretty sure the socket will break before this nut comes loose any ideas?

Should I go with a 3/4 drive breaker bar and socket?

I have a half inch drive impact and have tried that as well with no success though the litte aire compressor I have does not produce much pressure.

I am at a loss here would like to stop this leak but at this point I am about to live with it.

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Old 06-19-2013, 11:13 AM   #2
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Me and my buddy just went through that. Sheared the male fitting right off of a 3/4 breaker bar. Destroyed a socket etc... We even bent the handle on a 1" ratchet.

Bring out the torch.... That's all I can say. We had to heat the crap out of it to get it off. That along with a very strong breaker bar and a long steel pipe for leverage should do the job. Ours was 3-4 feet long.

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Old 06-19-2013, 11:15 AM   #3
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I had to hit mine with the big impact the first time to get mine loose (after removing the cotter pin of coarse) The I never seised them.
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Old 06-19-2013, 02:29 PM   #4
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Axle Nut

Ok so after heating the crap out of it and using an entire can of PB blaster the nut is off. I had to stand on the breaker bar and cheater bar and bounce a little but finally got it off.

Thanks for the help on that.

Next question is this is an 88 YJ standard DANA 35 front axle do I not have to take c-clips off in the Diff to get the axle hub off?

Anyone that has done this before on a older modely YJ please chime in

Thanks
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:12 PM   #5
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It's a d30. No clips. Passenger shaft is 2 piece.


My 1/2" ratchet when I did mine. Wrong tool for the job obviously.



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Old 06-19-2013, 04:14 PM   #6
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Did you get the 3 13mm 12points out yet???
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:20 PM   #7
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You do know you are going to have to pull both sides and the carrier to replace this right? I have done two in the past few months. Not hard, but a good amount of work. If you plan to lock it do it now.
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Complete rebuild axle/engine/everything swap in progress:
Parts already gathered for assembly: 2001 Ford 302, 1990 Mustang GT 5.0 ECU and wiring, NP435, NP205, Pair of axles from 04' F350 SuperDuty (Sterling 10.5 Posi rear, Dana 60HP Front-Both Disk Brakes 3.73 Gears), 37" H1 Tires, 9" lift TJ Coils for 2 link conversion in front, Stage 2 Clutch Kit, 3 Row Aluminum Radiator, Chevy Astro Steering box (4" front Stretch), XJ Rear Leaf Springs (6" Rear Stretch), and lots more.
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:41 PM   #8
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No I did not know that I had to pull both sides and the carrier thanks for that joyful news crap only one side is leaking!

Why the heck can this not be easier!

And yes I was thinking of locking it down the road just have enough going on with this oversized paper weight at the moment.

I think it is all going back together until I have time to deal with it later.

As much work as the driver side was I do not want to think about the passenger side as this time.

Man oh man I need a few beers!

thanks for the information

Chief
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Old 06-19-2013, 04:56 PM   #9
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Yes I got the 3 12 points out of the back of the hub out forgot to answer that when I was ranting on my last post
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Old 06-19-2013, 07:13 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89Saharagreen View Post
No I did not know that I had to pull both sides and the carrier thanks for that joyful news crap only one side is leaking!

Why the heck can this not be easier!

And yes I was thinking of locking it down the road just have enough going on with this oversized paper weight at the moment.

I think it is all going back together until I have time to deal with it later.

As much work as the driver side was I do not want to think about the passenger side as this time.

Man oh man I need a few beers!

thanks for the information

Chief
Yeah the driver side seal is located where the axle tube goes into the differential housing. The passenger side is located at the cad housing. The only way to get to the seal is with the carrier removed, and you can't remove it with the passenger side axle still going into it. What sucks is you might mess up the passenger seal when pulling the axles if there is a lot of grit and grime in there.
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Complete rebuild axle/engine/everything swap in progress:
Parts already gathered for assembly: 2001 Ford 302, 1990 Mustang GT 5.0 ECU and wiring, NP435, NP205, Pair of axles from 04' F350 SuperDuty (Sterling 10.5 Posi rear, Dana 60HP Front-Both Disk Brakes 3.73 Gears), 37" H1 Tires, 9" lift TJ Coils for 2 link conversion in front, Stage 2 Clutch Kit, 3 Row Aluminum Radiator, Chevy Astro Steering box (4" front Stretch), XJ Rear Leaf Springs (6" Rear Stretch), and lots more.
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:05 PM   #11
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If you are going to do the driver side go ahead and do the CAD seal at the same time. Since you are pulling the carrier. If not you will soon be kicking yourself when you have to pull the carrier again. Ask me how I know.
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Old 06-19-2013, 08:40 PM   #12
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If you want to do that then just get a solid shaft for the passenger side. You can also do greasable outer seals if you put in a solid axle. No cad to fail either. Also bigger u joints if you get a newer one.

The cad seal is a real bitch to replace. You can get a solid shaft for $50 or less on craigslist and put a new seal at the diff house like the driver side.
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Complete rebuild axle/engine/everything swap in progress:
Parts already gathered for assembly: 2001 Ford 302, 1990 Mustang GT 5.0 ECU and wiring, NP435, NP205, Pair of axles from 04' F350 SuperDuty (Sterling 10.5 Posi rear, Dana 60HP Front-Both Disk Brakes 3.73 Gears), 37" H1 Tires, 9" lift TJ Coils for 2 link conversion in front, Stage 2 Clutch Kit, 3 Row Aluminum Radiator, Chevy Astro Steering box (4" front Stretch), XJ Rear Leaf Springs (6" Rear Stretch), and lots more.
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Old 06-20-2013, 08:51 PM   #13
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Axle nut

So if I do the solid shaft on the passenger side yes?
I need a TJ passenger side shaft yes?

And 50.00 is very reasonable however I have not found one in NC that cheap. Not sure where you are located Overkill but I will begin to look for the TJ axle shaft.

Man oh man it never seems to stop I new a project like this was going to be a lot but !@@#$$%%.

thanks for the help everyone.
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Old 06-20-2013, 09:38 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89Saharagreen View Post
So if I do the solid shaft on the passenger side yes?
I need a TJ passenger side shaft yes?

And 50.00 is very reasonable however I have not found one in NC that cheap. Not sure where you are located Overkill but I will begin to look for the TJ axle shaft.

Man oh man it never seems to stop I new a project like this was going to be a lot but !@@#$$%%.

thanks for the help everyone.
XJ shaft works to. I think any other Dana 30 besides a yj up to around 2000 will fit. Google will tell you for sure though

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Complete rebuild axle/engine/everything swap in progress:
Parts already gathered for assembly: 2001 Ford 302, 1990 Mustang GT 5.0 ECU and wiring, NP435, NP205, Pair of axles from 04' F350 SuperDuty (Sterling 10.5 Posi rear, Dana 60HP Front-Both Disk Brakes 3.73 Gears), 37" H1 Tires, 9" lift TJ Coils for 2 link conversion in front, Stage 2 Clutch Kit, 3 Row Aluminum Radiator, Chevy Astro Steering box (4" front Stretch), XJ Rear Leaf Springs (6" Rear Stretch), and lots more.
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