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Old 05-15-2013, 06:52 AM   #1
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Axle Upgrade Questions

So I am looking to upgrade my axles on my 93 YJ. It is a 4 cylinder tho. Anyways I found a Dana 44 front and rear out of a 82 Jeep Cherokee Chief. I was wondering if these axles would fit in my YJ. The axles have 3.55 gears and the rear has a limited slip differential. I do know I would need to weld new spring perches and new shock mounts. Other than that would they fit. I will also be doing a SYE kit as well on my jeep so will the drive line be the same or does that need to change too? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I want to get away from the 8.8 axles BC if I break an axle I'll still have the same problem as with a d35.
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:07 AM   #2
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I got ford 8.8 with super 88 kit in rear..chrom molly axels both 3.73 ring and pinnon. There not going to break and if they do they won't slide out.

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Old 05-15-2013, 07:35 AM   #3
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A 4cyl. And 3:55 will not be fun even with stock tires.
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Old 05-15-2013, 07:42 AM   #4
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I plan on regearing these axles as well. Just wondering if they would fit. With a regear they should push my 31's and hopefully I could go to 33's some day. I just need to know if that set of axles would fit.
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:15 AM   #5
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I don't think you would ever have a problem a the 8.8 on 33's. The 8.8 might have c-clips like the dana 35 but that's where the similarities end.
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:18 AM   #6
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Those axles are going to be wider than your stock axles. Wagoneer axles are the closest to the same width.
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Old 05-15-2013, 08:45 AM   #7
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I understand they will be almost 5 inches wider on each side. I can deal with that as I only off road my jeep, so I don't need to worry about being street legal. I just need to know if they will fit with some work. It is hard to find Dana 44s as it is. The ones I fond are already pulled and ready to go. I haven't looked at them and they can be the wrong thing. But I want to know everything before making a trip to look.
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Old 05-15-2013, 09:11 AM   #8
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I ran a wagoner d44 on the rear of my CJ7. It will fit, but its going to be wider. You need to get the spring perch width correct and welded by someone who knows what they are doing. I have seen the spring perch welds break when the welds were poor. When setting the perches you must also consider the pinion angle. I can't remember the angle where the oil starts to have trouble getting to the pinion bearing, but that should be easy to find on google. You can tilt the pinion up a little so your ujoints are at less of an angle if you are lifted. The only other thing I can think of is to make sure your ujoints are the same size as the d44 yoke. I ran a custom drive shaft so it was not an issue for me. Overall it's an easy swap. I installed a Scout d44 in the front and that was a different story. Good luck and take pictures.
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Old 05-15-2013, 11:05 AM   #9
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an 8.8 is stronger. just get that
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Old 05-15-2013, 03:42 PM   #10
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A disc brake 8.8 has built in axle keepers. It's called calipers....
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Old 05-15-2013, 03:57 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95YamJam View Post
A disc brake 8.8 has built in axle keepers. It's called calipers....
And to upgrade to an 8.8 and not have the patience to get one with disk brakes makes no sense.
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Old 05-15-2013, 06:29 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 95YamJam View Post
A disc brake 8.8 has built in axle keepers. It's called calipers....
True. I have rear disc on mine.
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Old 05-15-2013, 06:39 PM   #13
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I added rear disc on the d44. The 8.8 upgrade had not took off at that point or I would have probably ran the 8.8.
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Old 05-15-2013, 06:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bajonesy77 View Post
Those axles are going to be wider than your stock axles. Wagoneer axles are the closest to the same width.
I believe the Cherokee Chief IS a Wagoneer....

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Old 05-15-2013, 07:33 PM   #15
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After a quick google search to comfirm what I was thinking, the chief has wide track axles under it 65" wide(note the fender flares) In 82 it very well could have the axle disconnect on the front just like the yj dana 30. Also it could have a amc20 in the rear and if it had quadratec the rear axle pumpkin will be offset.
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:58 AM   #16
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So what can I find a 8.8 rear axle with 4:10 gearing in? If I had to pull one from a junk yard what are the best makes models and years to go with? Also will I have to change the rear drive shaft or the u joints? I am going to be installing a SYE kit with a cv style drive shaft.
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:05 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmeier View Post
So what can I find a 8.8 rear axle with 4:10 gearing in? If I had to pull one from a junk yard what are the best makes models and years to go with? Also will I have to change the rear drive shaft or the u joints? I am going to be installing a SYE kit with a cv style drive shaft.
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:05 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmeier View Post
So what can I find a 8.8 rear axle with 4:10 gearing in? If I had to pull one from a junk yard what are the best makes models and years to go with? Also will I have to change the rear drive shaft or the u joints? I am going to be installing a SYE kit with a cv style drive shaft.
You want one from a 97 or later explorer since they have disk brakes. For 4.10 gears you will need either a sport, or an Explorer with the Tow Package. You will need a flange yoke for the 8.8. Buy one and send it to whoever is making the shaft for you and they should put that on at no charge. If you dont plan on locking the rear then make sure to get one with limited slip. Do not go through the trouble and drop in an open diff unless you are going to lock it. You should only pay about $200 if you pull the axle yourself.
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:25 PM   #19
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Now going to disc brakes will I be able to use current brake lines? Or will I have to run a new line from the MC? I have stainless steel brake lines and the rest is stock.
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:33 PM   #20
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Check out eastcoastgearsupply.com in their 'axle swap' section.
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Old 05-16-2013, 12:42 PM   #21
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Now going to disc brakes will I be able to use current brake lines? Or will I have to run a new line from the MC? I have stainless steel brake lines and the rest is stock.
The only place you might need to replace anything is the rubber line between the axle and body if you are lifting it. Other than that all of the brake lines are fine.

Now the proportioning valve should be replaced to one that is setup for front and rear disk brakes. You can run with the stock one, but you will burn up your rear brakes faster since your stock P Valve is used to applying more pressure for drum brakes.
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Old 05-16-2013, 09:21 PM   #22
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What are some other alternative options out there? Like throwing 3/4 ton axles from an old truck with gearing closer to 4:88? I would like better gearing. And I'd rather not spend money on new gears. Other than the 8.8 and Dana 44s what's out there? I'm not opposed to anything just researching.
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Old 05-16-2013, 10:54 PM   #23
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What are some other alternative options out there? Like throwing 3/4 ton axles from an old truck with gearing closer to 4:88? I would like better gearing. And I'd rather not spend money on new gears. Other than the 8.8 and Dana 44s what's out there? I'm not opposed to anything just researching.
I believe there are some waggy 44s out there that come with 4.56 gearing from the factory
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Old 05-16-2013, 11:17 PM   #24
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It is actually 95 up on the explorer. 95 to 01 on the 4dr sedan. Up to 02 on the two door (these were only offered in 3.73 or 4.10 I believe. Will need to check my interchange at work to varify though)
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Old 05-17-2013, 07:03 AM   #25
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It is actually 95 up on the explorer. 95 to 01 on the 4dr sedan. Up to 02 on the two door (these were only offered in 3.73 or 4.10 I believe. Will need to check my interchange at work to varify though)
I think 95+96 were drum brakes though.
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Old 05-17-2013, 08:14 AM   #26
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I think 95+96 were drum brakes though.
When I got my axle, I looked at a 96 and a 97. Both had discs, but the 97 had less miles and was cleaner, so I got that one. So at least some 96's had discs.
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Old 05-17-2013, 10:39 AM   #27
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95 First year of disc brakes on the explorer
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Old 05-17-2013, 10:53 AM   #28
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Jeep Jedi has a good write up on the 8.8 exchange. I know, because I followed it when I did mine.

You're going to want a constant velocity driveshaft for the SYE and 8.8 especially since the 8.8 is a center pumpkin driveshaft, so the driveshaft line will be offset.

Use two passenger side caliper lines for the rubber hoses from caliper to hard lines. Then you'll need to run your own hard lines from the main. Keep the bleeder valve from your D35 you'll use it on the 8.8.

Most write ups I read before doing my swap said no proportion inch valve necessary... Good luck.

Definitely get an upgraded diff cover. MORE offroad has a great selection of awesome diff covers for the 8.8 and also brand new e-brake lines adapted for the YJ. You'll want that.
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Old 05-17-2013, 11:41 AM   #29
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No way should you go with the CV shaft unless you have to. They are much weaker and prone to failure. The only way you do with that is if you have no choice because of how high you are lifted, not because the flange is 2" to the side. One thing I have heard of people doing is putting a spacer on one side to center the flange more, but I did not find it necessary for me. If in budget go with a 1350 SYE, driveshaft, and flangeyoke. The 1350 can handle the steeper angles if you are lifted without failure, and you can get rid of the vibes. That is the same setup Ibuildembig likes to use on his SOA's. After I kill my 3rd CV shaft I will be going that route as well. These CV shafts just dont take the abuse and hate water/mud.
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Old 05-17-2013, 04:58 PM   #30
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I just did a swap using Waggy 44's out of an '84. Simple swap, I have a write up on it here. I did have to regear them though...

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