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Old 06-25-2011, 03:25 PM   #1
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Best Way To Remove Protective Skid Plate Under Jeep?

I need to remove the off road skid plate under my 1995 Jeep wrangler YJ to fix a seal....I was told that the bolts would break if i attempted to try to take the skid plate off...There is 3 bolts on each side and what i would like to know is what would be the easiest way to take them bolts out without busted any bolts????? Im sure someone out there has experienced this or might of taking the skid plate off a jeep and would like to know if the bolts break off like i have heard that they do! One mechanic that i know had worked on a 1997 jeep wrangler and he busted one bolt on each side and didnt go any farther! Is there anyway to spray the bolts prior to removing???? I really would like to know the easiest process in removing the 3 bolts on each side of the skid plate without any problems....Thank you!

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Old 06-25-2011, 04:59 PM   #2
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Spray em real good and let them sit. Then heat em up. Then try a breaker bar or one of the air ratchets. 1 of mine broke when I swapped out trannys so I have 2 on 1 side, 3 on the other. I guess if I get motivated I will get around to fixing it. I don't remember if those bolts go all the way through or not but I would get yourself some spares just in case.

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Old 06-25-2011, 05:37 PM   #3
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Heat the bolts until the entire head glows red then use an impact wrench to remove them. They'll come right out.
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Old 06-25-2011, 05:46 PM   #4
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Sawzall lol
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Old 06-25-2011, 05:56 PM   #5
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They just came right out on my 90.

If your having any issues, any combination of torch, then PBlaster, then impact, sawzall then easyout....

Im in Cali and we dont have too many rust issues.....

... well, Shackle bolts are usually fun.
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Old 06-25-2011, 10:37 PM   #6
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I really appreciate all the ideas that you all have given so far! I was told that the bolts do go all the way through so i wonder if there is any way to spray pblaster from the other end so it will work its way down through and then after a few days heat the end of the bolt????....Thats pretty much what i had in mind to start out....I just gotta cross my fingers and hope for the best! I really do need to change the seal out cause i am smelling it everytime i drive down the road!
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Old 06-26-2011, 01:51 PM   #7
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You're not in a high rust area. Have you tried just taking them out. I'd just give the head of each one a good whack with a large ball pein hammer too knock the rust loose and give it a try, prior to the torch, impact wrench and reciprocating saw.
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Old 06-26-2011, 06:02 PM   #8
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No i havent made any attempts yet, i was actually going by what i have heard and what i had heard from a mechanic that just worked on one last week...He worked on a 1997, he tried to take off the plate and busted a bolt on each side (2 bolts) and didnt go no further. So he was giving me the heads up about the plate and that it would give me problems...I figured if that was a 1997 model, mine is a 1995 so i was figuring that i would have the same problems...I am here asking for tips on how to approach the situation....I do believe that some can say that the skid plate does give some kind of problems if it has been on the vehicle for a long period of time! Hopefully it wont be a problem! I have my fingers crossed...I will be working on it sometime next week! I will smack each one to loosen up any rust and then i just might use the pblaster to help loosen up the bolts...But thats if there is access to the other end of the bolts. I will be getting into it next week! Any more ideas on an easy way to get a rusty skid plate off without breaking any bolts will be great!
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Old 06-26-2011, 06:48 PM   #9
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They dont go all the way through. I didn't have any issues and MI has a ton of rust issues. PB blaster- let it sit- hit with hammer a couple times- PB blaster- let it sit- hit with hammer again- I would try to loosen them up by a rachet first- if you think the bolts will be a problem, an impact gives too much torque at one time so I would start with something with a little less power.
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Old 06-26-2011, 07:21 PM   #10
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Thanks alot Plop...That makes alot of sense! I would rather take my time and take a week then to bust a bolt or 2...I say they wont come out if you end up busting the bolts! I never did ask that mechanic that question since he stated that he busted 2 bolts on a 1997 that he worked on last week!

Added Question: After your have the skid plate off and fix the problem...What would be the best way to reinstall the skid plate...Would lubing the bolts work for future purposes or brand new bolts when it comes time to put the skid plate back on?? Would it be best to use a lock washer when putting the bolts back on?? Etc....
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:46 AM   #11
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I usually just clean the holes thoroghly with a wire brush and the bolt if it still looks good then I use a decent amount of grease. Down is the easy part for me but getting the skid back into place is the challenge for me because I usually have to do it all by myself.

I am not sure what to call the bolts but they are angled like lug nuts and a regular bolt wont hold it in the right spot. I haven't put regular bolts in before so I dont know how big of a deal it would be.
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Old 06-27-2011, 10:08 AM   #12
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On rusted stuff like this....I put my 1/2 inch air gun on them... turn the gun down to a minimal air setting...and let it rattle. It isn't enough to break the head off...but rather puts vibrations up thru the bolt to shake it loose. OH...and remember...when you put it back...use Anti-seize on the bolt threads. You'll be much happier later if you have to take it off again.
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Old 06-28-2011, 02:42 PM   #13
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Well i stopped by the mechanics shop today and on the software he showed me that there is no seal...Its showing that you make your own seal by applying a bead of caulking seal around the outside edge...Is this true??? He said he called advanced auto and they even said there isnt a seal listed!! Anyone know of this and have any suggestions on what to use brand wise???? Thanks appreciate it!!
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Old 06-28-2011, 02:52 PM   #14
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What seal?
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:42 PM   #15
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What are you trying to seal up or are you talking about "lubing" the bolts up
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Old 06-28-2011, 03:56 PM   #16
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The one that should be between the transfer case & the transmission! The diagram says there isnt a seal...Advance auto isnt showing a seal either! It states to bead a caulking seal around the area So my question was what brand should i use?
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Old 06-28-2011, 04:16 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepwrangler95 View Post
The one that should be between the transfer case & the transmission! The diagram says there isnt a seal...Advance auto isnt showing a seal either!
There isn't they are two self contained fluid reservoirs. there might be some instant gasket between the two just to keep it clean.
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Old 06-28-2011, 04:30 PM   #18
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It states to bead a caulking seal around the area So my question was what brand should i use?
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Old 06-29-2011, 01:45 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepwrangler95 View Post
It states to bead a caulking seal around the area So my question was what brand should i use?
Between the transmission and transfer case, regardless of what your manual says, use nothing.
There is a small drip hole cast into the case there, its there for a reason, and that reason is so if you have a transmission rear seal, or t-case front seal leak, it wont fill up the area between gearboxes and damage the other seal.

If you have your t-case out, replace the rear transmission seal and the front t-case seal and be done with it.

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Old 06-29-2011, 04:38 AM   #20
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Ok great, Yeah mise well since i have it all off!...Thanks 2xs
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Old 06-30-2011, 12:34 PM   #21
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2xs i have called advance auto parts and they looked up them seals and they cant find anything! They seen a overall kit and when i asked how much they found out that they couldnt even order it! So right now im having alil difficulty tracking down the parts that i need! I have a software disc but i called the jeep dealer and asked for the seals that are between the transfer case and the transmission! The guy at the jeep dealer told me that there would be about 5 seals that i would need and that 2 of them i would need to get the numbers off the transfer case in order to get the right seals..i guess there is a 8 digit number that he needs! He said that the first 4 digits would be 5209****, i would need to get the last four digits....So thats where i stand so far! I didnt think it would be this complicated but it sure looks like its getting that way! hahaha So since monday is a holiday i will call the jeep dealer tuesday to order the parts once i get the transfer case numbers and then the parts will take 3 days to get here...The total for all the seals that i need would be approx $100.00...Thats pretty much what the guy had told me! Any suggestions of feedback would be great!! Thanks!!!
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Old 06-30-2011, 03:17 PM   #22
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Try your local transmission shop they deal with replacement seals all the time and know what fits what, and they are usually about 1/2 the cost of the dealer, can't believe someone has not said this yet.
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Old 06-30-2011, 06:14 PM   #23
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I replied to your PM with tis same message.

There arent 5 seals, Im thinking hes looking at a fill tcase seal set. Here is an example of the 2 seals you need to replace, I used my 2.5L 1990 YJ to look it up, but you can input yours at:
https://www.napaonline.com/default.aspx

https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...+50038+2038050

is for the transmission output seal on my 1990 Jeep YJ AX5


https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...+50038+2038050

Is for my NP231J Transfer case input seal
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Old 06-30-2011, 09:23 PM   #24
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Thanks redrider..thats an idea!! I will contact them tomorrow!

Yeah 2xs i returned your message! Yeah i say they was looking at the whole kit which i believe all i need to fix the leak is the rear trans seal & the front transfer case seal...They want a 8 digit number on the transfer case inorder to get the right part! Most important to me is getting the right parts the first time so my jeep isnt stranded up on a lift! Pretty much why im glad that i took the time to actually search into this first!
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Old 06-30-2011, 11:26 PM   #25
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Want to make it easier?

Remove the seals, and bring them down to your local NANA or similar parts house to match them up.

BE CAREFULL pulling the seal, you damage it too much, your screwed.

t case seal you can take the seal retainer off and pop the seal through the back.

The trans you can pop out with a screwdriver, if your carefull, you can still see the seal numbers......
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Old 06-30-2011, 11:40 PM   #26
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Well sometimes thats better said then done!! hahaha I can only say that it will be worked on with all good intensions and hopefully it will have a better out come then what i have had searching for the parts!! I do know that i definitely need the right parts before its torn apart! Specially if a part needs to be ordered like i have been told on one of the parts! In that case it would be stranded up on a lift and thats not good!! hahaha
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Old 07-01-2011, 12:09 AM   #27
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In that case it would be stranded up on a lift
I did mine on the ground, on my back......

Crawl under your Jeep and find the numbers and order the parts....
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Old 07-01-2011, 09:18 AM   #28
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Oh 2xs can you get the numbers with the skid plate on the jeep or does the skid plate have to be removed first????
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Old 07-01-2011, 09:21 AM   #29
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There should be a little round tag on the back if the t-case by the fill and drain plugs.
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Old 07-01-2011, 10:44 AM   #30
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Would that be visable without removing the skid plate or would you have to remove the skid plate in order to see the 8 digit number??? First four digits starts out with 5209****, i just need to find out the rest!

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