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Old 09-08-2011, 09:57 PM   #1
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Body bolt spins, but won't back out!!!

Every time I disassemble something, there's always ONE BOLT that refuses to cooperate! This time, its the body bolt on the front passenger side. First time I put the impact gun on it, it didn't budge. So, over the course of a week, I soaked it with PB Blaster several times, even soaked the threaded end of the bolt that is exposed on top. Tonight, it still wouldn't budge. So, I used my 1/2" breaker bar with a 2 foot long cheater pipe, and finally broke it free. Or, so I thought. It was turning and and turning and turning, but the head didn't drop even a hair. OMG, I thought, the blind threaded insert is turning!
I'm sure someone here has encountered the same problem. What are my options to get this last body bolt out?

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Old 09-08-2011, 10:35 PM   #2
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If the captured nut is spinning then you most likely have to cut the nut out.

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Old 09-08-2011, 11:28 PM   #3
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Thanks! I came up with another idea. I'm going to try cutting through the rubber body bushing and the bolt with a reciprocating saw. That will enable me to lift the tub off. I can then more easily get to the rest of the bolt and the offending captured nut.
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Old 09-08-2011, 11:35 PM   #4
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Same thing I did just the other day. At least it is just that one. Once you cut the head off you can pull it out through the top. When re-assembling you should be able to use a heavy washer and a nut on top.

The problem with mine was that the same thing happened to mine at the body mount by the roll cage mount. Now I have to cut a hole in the floor that I just welded in and bed lined a couple of weeks ago. I also broke both of the rear bolts. I havent figured out how I am going to fix those yet. I probably will have to cut away some of the body to get access, then weld it back in.
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Old 09-10-2011, 02:29 PM   #5
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Success! At first, I tried cutting through the rubber bushing and the bolt with a reciprocating saw, but I was creating more burnt rubber smoke than making progress through the bolt. Plan B was to use my bi-metal hole saw to cut a window through the passenger side floor, so I could figure out another course of action. Once done, I used my air chisel to remove the sheetmetal housing that surrounded the nut. I then welded the nut to immobilize it. I put my breaker bar with the 2 foot cheater pipe to work, and instead of the bolt finally coming loose, it snapped. It failed right where I had gone about 1/4 of the way through it with the reciprocating saw.
The hole doesn't matter to me, because I had already planned on replacing both front pans anyway. As for the partial bolt and nut, I'll just cut that area out and rebuild it with new piece of sheetmetal, and a large washer with a nut welded to it.

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Old 09-11-2011, 12:27 AM   #6
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Those bolts are tough. It took me about 20 minutes with the sawzall to get through one. I kept oil on the blade to keep it from heating up too much. My arms were good and numb from the vibration when I was done.

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