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Old 12-18-2009, 03:20 PM   #1
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Brakes. HELP

Busted a brake line 3 days ago. Up till then, brakes worked great. New calipers and pads on the front (2 months ago), new cylinders and shoes on the back (3 weeks ago). Ordered and installed new stainless lines from Quadratec along with all new hoses and fittings. I was surprised how brittle some of the old lines were, probably because it didn't get driven that much living in NC at the beach in OBX.

I have bled all the lines 3 times. When you hit the brake with the Jeep off, nice firm pedal with little travel. Turn it on and the pedal goes almost to the floor, very mushy. Pump it and it stiffens up.

I'm thinking there is air in the master cylinder. Don't think it's bad cause the pedal doesn't travel after it "bottoms out" after pumping it (am I right?). Is there an easy way to bleed the master without taking it off?

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Old 12-18-2009, 03:33 PM   #2
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Keep bleeding them. Start with the wheel furthest from the MC and work your way closer. There is no reason to bleed the MC. If it was new you would bench bleed it but this is not needed here.

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Old 12-18-2009, 03:44 PM   #3
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Thanks Rednek. Just got outta the shower, felt like I had brake fluid deodorant on. Dirty job.

I'll bleed em again in the morning.
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Old 12-18-2009, 04:01 PM   #4
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Make sure you are bleeding in the proper order, furthest from the master first, so right rear, then left rear, then right front, then last left front.
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Old 12-18-2009, 04:08 PM   #5
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That's the order I used. Three freakin times.

I know I'm starting with a system with zero fluid, but how many times bleeding should it take? I gravity bled the system before bleeding it with help in the front seat.
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Old 12-18-2009, 04:14 PM   #6
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May be time to take it down and have it pressure bled, shouldn't cost much.
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Old 12-18-2009, 04:20 PM   #7
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Never heard of that. Who does that and how is it done?
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Old 12-18-2009, 04:24 PM   #8
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A specialized pressure pump, is attached to the master cylinder and filled with fluid. The pump is used to pressurize the system to about 10psi, and the bleeder valves are opened one at a time until the fluid is clear of air. One advantage to this system is that the pump reservoir usually holds enough fluid that running dry is not likely.


I've never had a problem doing it the old fashion pump and hold method. Gravity bleeding is a pain in the butt. When I replace all my lines I think I bled the system 6-7 times until I was satisfied.
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Old 12-18-2009, 04:31 PM   #9
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Thanks for the info. It'd be nice to get this fixed in the morning especially since the weatherman just said 24" to 28" for us tomorrow night. As much fun as it is to drive around in the snow, it's just a little freaky when you just aint stopping.

I'll bleed it some more. Getting really good at this.
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Old 12-18-2009, 04:32 PM   #10
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Any brake shop should be able to do it, sometimes you can find a local garage that can cheap since the master on the YJ's is the old GM style and they may have equipment from long ago that will work fine.
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Old 12-18-2009, 04:35 PM   #11
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You can buy a mighty vac brake bleeder pump for around 30 dollars from any parts store and have the brakes done in minutes.
And the pump works for testing a lot of vacuum systems on your Jeep also.
So it is a nice tool to and to your shop.
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Old 12-18-2009, 04:51 PM   #12
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Just checked NAPA and Auto Zone, pump is special order. Gonna get up early and try bleeding again another 4 or 5 times and see what happens. I'm sure it's one little PITA bubble stuck somewhere. Lots and lots and lots of bends and twists and turns on the new brake lines.

I do feel better with all new lines. It was unbelievable how bad some of them were. Glad the line broke in the neighborhood instead of hauling ass off an exit ramp.

If any of you guys ever need brake lines, I highly recommend the set from Quadratec. Made install easy - fittings already set, everything pre-bent and marked and color coded. With all the new lines and new rubber and freshly painted calipers and drums, almost hated putting the wheels back on. Wish I took some pics.

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