I am sure this issue has been beat to death but i have a carb issue, I think. I have an 88 with a 6 cylinder in it, engine is all stock with fresh tune up and timing set by me per manual.
It will start right up, but with in seconds of starting if i don't have the RPMs at 1500 or higher, and stay there for a few min, it will die. Then it will run rough, until its up to temp, then say I am crusin around 2500 if I push the clutch in and let the RPMs drop from that to idle it will die most of the time.
I am new to the jeep thing, I am OK with carbs on motorcycles. But they dont have all the emissions bull shit.
I was looking into getting a Weber for it, but I keep hearing I will never pass emissions. So any info you guys got will be great. Thanks in advance for the info.
Just got it not to long ago, seems to be decent shape. Oil leak here and there easy fix. just not sure on the carb issue if its even that. All those vac lines freak me out. Kinda hopin to fix it in one shot and not throw parts at it til its fixed.
With the original vacuum hoses will make all the difference, all 14 of them.
Mine was doing the same thing, but for me the reason was the Alternator was going bad. The bearing were loading up enough to bog down the engine.
I have also seen similar issues with a clogged or partially clogged Catalytic Converter.
The first time I had this problem 20 years ago what happened was the Hose that goes from the PCV valve on the front of the Valve cover had melted on the back side and you couldn't tell from a glance it was bad. It is something like a 3/8" ID vacuum hose so it was affecting everything else.
I just cured a similar problem a couple of weeks ago - was the same clogged idle fuel pickup tubes as detailed in the "Instructables" linky above. If that is the problem you will definitely be able to see fuel dribbling from one or both venturis while looking in the carb at idle (or as close to idle as you can keep it running).
However, rather than go through the PITA of removing the choke butterfly and shaft, I just unscrewed six screws and carefully lifted the top off the carb to access and remove the venturi cluster and clean the tubes.
While I was at it, I followed some advice from another article on this problem and reamed the pickup tubes to about .030" with welding tip cleaners. But I had done the Nutter Bypass already and was working towards getting the idle mix in the ballpark for the mixture screws to be effective in fine tuning. You may want to skip the reaming if you are runnng with the computer hooked up.
Merritt Island, FL
When a person asks you for advice, they don't want advice. They want corroboration
For the carb question I would definitly look up that guy on ebay with the complete motorcraft 2100 carb kits he jets and sets it for you also I have a weber 38dgas on mine and don't like it, it is a PITA and I will switch to the motorcraft when funds are available
Well thank all of you for the info, I just purchased the motor craft 2100 from the ebay guy. I got the air cleaner, electric choke and the TFI distributer option. So in a week or two we will see what happens. Cant wait
Just completed the MC2100 swap on mine. Wow what a difference!! At first it was only a marginal improvement over the carter, but as it turns out most of my vacuum lines had cracked and split when pulling them off during the swap. A quick replacement of the vacuum lines and she runs wonderfully. I'm also getting ~5.2MPG more now (combined hwy and city; 5 tanks of gas so far). The kit he sent had everything needed, instructions were easy to follow and he answered all questions I had.