I hear tell that some people don't recommend ever changing the fluid on a high mileage tranny. Apparently, they think it will jack it up. I have no idea though. Just thought I'd throw that out since I have heard that alot. Could be a wives tale for all I know.
I have heard that about auto trannies, but not sure about a manual. I will have to look that up in the owners manual. I know they recommend every 30k on an auto, along with the filter, but not sure about the manual.
Not sure if or how often to change either, although I recently learned it is important to CHECK it and keep it full.
Why are you thinking of changing? Are you having trouble, noise?
To Check it, on the Passenger side of the tranny there is a Check/Fill plug, it is the highest one on the tranny, it looks hard to get at, but you can get a 15/16th socket on there and it comes right out. Stick your pinky way in there...you should feel fluid, if not, use a pump to add more.
'03 TJ Sport on 33's, 2"BB, 1"BL, 1"MML
A few weeks ago my jeep started making this clanking noise when it is idling, I thought it was my exhaust rattling but my buddy said he thinks it's the transmission. I can't see where it would be leaking, I'll have to check the fluid level. My jeep has 181,000 miles on it and after he called that to my attention I figured it wouldn't hurt to change out the fluid.
'92 YJ, 2.5L, 5-spd, 4" RE standard lift, 35x12.50 Dunlop mud rovers, AA SYE kit, hand throttle, Cobra CB
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well i have a question. would it make it hard to shift or make your gears stick if the fluid was low?
Nope....at least not until something breaks. Mine was low and I did not realize until 5th gear started making a noise like a bag of marbles bouncing around under the hood....and even then it still shifted and pulled fine in 5th.....just noisy as hell. Drove it like that for 3 months.....didn't use 5th.
Low Clutch Fluid makes it hard to shift.
93_Wrangler... A "clanking noise when it is idling"... does not sound like Tranny problem to me......key word is "idling". Bang on your Muffler and Cat to see if either of those is making said noise.
'03 TJ Sport on 33's, 2"BB, 1"BL, 1"MML
Chilton's says to change the manual fluid every 45k. I did it yesterday (Jeep had only 3k miles on it in 5 years, so everything is being maintenanced)...USE A PUMP, well worth the investment of $8. I made a huge mess in the driving until I got frustrated and went to Autozone.
It is also recommended to change the fluid in the transfer case at the same time (lot easier!)...same fluid in it.
According to the factory service manual... ...it's 75w90 in the transmission (3.27qts. in the AX-15) every 18k mi, and ATF in the transfer case (3.25pts in the NP-231) every 30k mi.
I started to change the fluild in my 1997 wrangler maual trans. and found the fill plug would not come loose! After about 1.5 hrs., I gave up! This is after I finally stripped the torx type plug. I tried everything including a hammer and chisel! Need help! Are these plugs always this difficult. Any suggestion now would be greatly appreciate. Yes, I usally do all my maintenance! Help!
Any time I work under a vehicle or an area that has not been touched in a while I use a penetraiting oil such as PB blaster or Kroil WD40 works pretty good too. I usually soak the the night before and a quick blast before working on them. It worked great on removing a snow plow mount from my jeep that had been installed since Nov 1989!
1990 Sahara Wrangler MC 2100 carb rest stock so far
The service manuals give the interval based on a "typical" on the road driver. That does not account for the use and abuse a driver gives a jeep in the typical off the road driving scenario. It also does not include driving in extremely hot or cold circumstances, through mud and water. And yes, running low on fluids in any of your cases will cause damage to the internal moving parts. The purpose of the lubricating fluid being there is to reduce friction and keep the parts cooler, and keep the parts LUBRICATED and less damaged.
The guideline is that you keep track of the use of your vehicle and the color of your fluids just like you check your oil and note it's appearance, smell and texture, and make your oil changes dependent on visual inspection. You need to open and regularly check the cases. A. you then know what shape your fluids are in, and B. you are able to get the plugs out since they didn't freeze up on you. Personally, I take mine to Jiffy Lube and let them crawl under it in the pit. Best $28 I ever spend!
If you have a ax-15 you need to use a gl-3 or 4 oil not a 5. 5 is what all the auto parts stores carry. Get a oil like redline mt-90. If you use a 5 it will eat away at the syncros and will trash the tranny. For the t case it doesn't really matter. But I use a mobil 1 synthetic ATF in it.
flowmaster40,hpd30 with aussie locker,currie upper joints,4.88's, lca skids,chromo shafts,vanco brakes,d35 with super 35 and arb locker,re 4.5" springs,currie arms,re front uppers,Re shocks in back,walkerevens shocks up front, Re track bars with currie jj joints,anti rock,ss brake lines,re rear sway bar links,jks 1.25" bl and mml,bfg 35x12.5 km2's,craiger soft 8's,ome steering stabilizer,currie hd steering,rockmen front bumper,emp tank skid,lots more too.
If you have a ax-15 you need to use a gl-3 or 4 oil not a 5. 5 is what all the auto parts stores carry. Get a oil like redline mt-90. If you use a 5 it will eat away at the syncros and will trash the tranny.
So the O&M is incorrect in stating, "Mopar Gear Lubricant or equivalent of SAE 75W-90 (API-GL5) quality." ?????
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