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Old 09-16-2013, 08:42 AM   #1
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Charging problem

Aaaargh! 91YJ is unable to start after putting in a new battery. It's happened a few times prior to replacing the battery, then twice after. Alternator? Does it have a separate voltage regulator?

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Old 09-16-2013, 08:52 AM   #2
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your alternator is probably regulated by the computer..put a chevy alternator with internal regulator in it and forget about it

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Old 09-16-2013, 09:37 AM   #3
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I need to get it fixed today, it's stranded in the school parking lot! SMH! So is that a yes? On the regulator?
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Old 09-16-2013, 09:38 AM   #4
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I think I need to do the same thing. Any details on which chevy alternator to use? Anything I need to know about mounting it or hooking it up?
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Old 09-16-2013, 03:00 PM   #5
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Catalog

this will tell you which car has what amp alternator..wiring and mounting is simple
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Old 09-16-2013, 06:25 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by harleydragon View Post
Catalog

this will tell you which car has what amp alternator..wiring and mounting is simple
Great link Harley dragon but a simple wiring diagram may help these guys more. I used GM alternators on my FORD race cars for years and they work great but for the life of me I couldnt tell you how to wire one up now. I guess the old timers disease is kicking in.
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:02 PM   #7
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ok..with the alternator sitting with the 2 prong plug up,looking at it from the back,the prong on the left is what they call the exciter..this is what the alternator idiot light is hooked to in a stock gm vehicle.this prong should get 12 volts applied to it when the ignition is turned on but the 12 volts should go through a slight resistance.on a stock gm the 12 volts goes to the idiot light and then the other leg of the idiot light,rather than being grounded,goes to this prong on the alternator..for our purposes on a jeep you could mount an idiot light,or use any light ,or use a 6-10 ohm resister..the other prong on the alternator just needs a 10 gauge jumper down to the electrical stud on the back of the alternator..then run another 10 gauge wire from this same stud to the battery..oh yeah,if you use a light on the exciter..when you turn the ignition on,the light will come on..then when you crank the engine,the light will go off,just like the alternator idiot light does on most vehicles..if you decide to use a resister,use a 10 ohm,10 watt..this will work good
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Old 09-16-2013, 07:10 PM   #8
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check your lines for corrosion and other normal wear and tear items assoc with power. Does it click but not turn over?
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Old 09-17-2013, 03:45 PM   #9
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^ yup, chack all your cables. If you put in a brand new battery, it should start right up WITHOUT an alternator.

Go after the source, you my friend most likely have a problem between your battery and the opposing ends. Bad battery connections, bad connections at the starter side or bad connections at the ground cables.

All the alternator does is charge the battery, which, a new battery is already charged. You can also test this with Jumper cables. Jump your battery to someone elses and try to start it, if it does not want to start its 100% in your connections.
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Old 09-17-2013, 03:47 PM   #10
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And, the voltage regulator is in the computer...

Please for your own sanity... pull your battery cables off both ends. At the battery and the starter. Scuff the crap out of them with sandpaper and lock everything back together tightly. Or, replace your battery cables. I've seen them coorode and turn green on the copper under the insulation and they will no longer conduct electricity.

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