So, as stated in a previous post, the only gauges that work in my stock cluster are the clock and the voltage for the alternator. One poster stated I should clean the gauges, so I have taken them out and am ready to get to cleaning
Where to begin? I have attached three pics. The cluster is off my 90 YJ. I am guessing I need to concentrate on the copper contacts, correct?
Yep. take out all the Lights and unscrew the bolts that hold gauges in place and clean the prongs that contact the printer circuit board. when you go to put it back in MAKE SURE TO DISCONNECT THE BATTERY I didn't and I fried the clock
Okay, I have the lights out and the small nuts off of each gauge on the back. There is a diamond shaped black piece of plastic underneath where the small nut was for each gauge. None of them want to come off. Any special trick to get those off? I am pulling straight up on them, but they are not budging. I can tell they are holding the gauges in.
If you are talking about your 89 YJ, then there are six metal screws that hold the trim piece over the cluster, radio and heat controls. Once you have that off, the cluster is hold in by another four screws and the plug behind it...
The pencil eraser will probably work fine. Try that first, then spray contact cleaner on a Q-tip and wipe the connections. A THIN coating of dielectric grease may help keep conductivity up, too. Good Luck
I have to say, the pencil eraser didn't seem to be doing much at all. The copper looked the same and I really wasn't liking the way it was coming up. I used a light touch and some 0000 steel wool and that did the trick. That cluster is cleaner than the day is came off the factory line
That being said... put it all back in, hooked up the battery and started her up. The clock worked (happy to see I didn't break it), the voltage was looking good and my oil pressure moved - so I may have gotten that one back
My gas gauge went to 3/4 of a tank, which is probably where it is - but I can't tell if that is really working until I drive it, because it acted funny while driving, starting, stopping, etc.
My water temp gauge didn't move Which, IMHO, is the most important one.
So... assuming I cleaned it properly and very well - and that the gauge itself is working - what should I be checking next in order to get my water temp gauge working?
Any help would be appreciated... I had a car seize on me once on the way back from MD in the rain because the gauge didn't work, so I really want this water temp gauge up and working correct.
RedWrangler - man, I don't want to hear that! It looked good to me, though it would be hard to tell exactly when it's electrical, I suppose. There were no rips or tears and I had it shinning before I put it back in. I guess I'll work on the rest possibilities and see where it takes me.
navychief - I don't think that's where it is. My coolant temperature sensor is (if you are facing the engine) to the right of the valve cover right at the end of the coolant hose, installed into the manifold area. Two-wire