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Old 05-08-2011, 09:08 AM   #1
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clutch issues

I have just purchased a 1995 YJ and was told the clutch needed to be replaced. I am mechanically inclined but have never owned a jeep and don't want to replace the wrong part. When I press the clutch the trans goes into gear fine. If I depress the clutch until the clutch grabs and then press the clutch to the floor and hold it, its like the system looses pressure and the vehicle takes off with the clutch to the floor. I am thinking it is the clutch slave cylinder but I am not sure.

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Old 05-08-2011, 09:10 AM   #2
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Check your fluid.

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Old 05-08-2011, 09:14 AM   #3
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Forgot to mention I checked the fluid and it appears to be full and fairly clean.
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Old 05-08-2011, 09:17 AM   #4
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Well then... replacing the slave alone is going to run you in the 60-70 dollar range. I'd bite the bullet and get a prebled master/slave combo for like 130, it comes with the line and everything else you need (obviously).

If that doesn't clear it up, I'd say it's time for a clutch... and it's fairly easy to do if you're mechanically inclined and have the right tools.
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Old 05-08-2011, 09:56 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonsBlue90
Well then... replacing the slave alone is going to run you in the 60-70 dollar range. I'd bite the bullet and get a prebled master/slave combo for like 130, it comes with the line and everything else you need (obviously).

If that doesn't clear it up, I'd say it's time for a clutch... and it's fairly easy to do if you're mechanically inclined and have the right tools.
+1... The best route is to replace both as a unit. Very easy to do, if pre-bled it will only take a half an hour for an external slave set up.
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Old 05-08-2011, 02:20 PM   #6
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Thanks for the help I am going to Look for the slave cylinder and replace it.
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Old 05-08-2011, 03:16 PM   #7
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There's a few different views on this...

Replacing just the slave or master is ok.

If you replace one, you should replace the other, and the line.

You have to replace both and the line.

I'd say to bite the bullet and spend the extra $ now. Wouldn't make much since to replace the slave, and find it out was the master, or that the old master is too weak to push the slave... or that the line which was fine with a weak slave in it is now leaking all over with real pressure behind it.
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Old 05-08-2011, 08:03 PM   #8
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I have priced each part combination and it only makes sense to replace all of it. Like you were saying earlier the whole assembly comes pre-bled. Which makes the rest of the installation even easier. The jeep is 16 years old with 87k miles so it is time to replace parts.
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Old 05-08-2011, 09:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonsBlue90
I'd say to bite the bullet and spend the extra $ now. Wouldn't make much since to replace the slave, and find it out was the master, or that the old master is too weak to push the slave... or that the line which was fine with a weak slave in it is now leaking all over with real pressure behind it.
My thought exactly!
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Old 05-09-2011, 12:17 PM   #10
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Hi,
I need some help here and it sounds similar. I had a new clutch put in about 8 months ago (slave and master). Now, I can no longer shift into any gear. I took my 92 Wrangler Islander back to my mechanic and they told me that the line running from the slave to the master is leaking at the fitting. He says he can't find a replacement part -- (It's been over 2 months). I asked him what that part name is and I'd help him look for one. He said it's the "Slave to Master Clutch Line and Fitting".

Can anyone tell me me when I can find one of these? Even a used one? I've tried the local junk yards and so far haven't gotten lucky.

THANK YOU!!!

-Jim

PS: And if you tell me I can get a pre-assembled, pre-bled Slave and Master for $130 bucks I'm really going to be ticked (and probably a new mechanic!)
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Old 05-09-2011, 01:01 PM   #11
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Jim,

i'm not too sure about all these slave and master cylinders etc....but here is what i do know...i have a 92 islander as well and my throwout bearing hit the dust. we pulled the bell housing off, and installed a new throw out bearing. the bearing had two wires coming off of it to and thru the bell housing. i reattached the line down from the master cylinder (i guess.....the one in the engine compartment oh so inconveniently placed under the rod that holds up the grill and holds a shot glass full of fluid) to one of the lines out of the throw out bearing and left the other line sealed as the directions said to. bled it out, and all works like a charm....i think the whole set up cost about 150 at autozone and was really easy to do. it does suck to have to take the bellhousing off, but no other options with the internal throw out bearing.....ok, well hope that helps.....
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Old 05-09-2011, 01:16 PM   #12
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Tons of other options :-) Best one being to get yourself a bell housing out of a 94 or 95 and swap to an external slave (A TJ housing should work too). You'll need to do some drilling to get the master bolted up to the firewall, but external slave is 100% worth any trouble.

And Jim... IDK if I'm misreading you. Did you get a new clutch and a new master cylinder? The throwout bearing/slave jammy for the internal slave will come with a clutch kit... If they just put in a master and slave cylinder, your clutch could be on the out (though for the extra 150 bucks for the clutch I don't see why they wouldn't have put one in while the trans was separated).

Also, if he can't find a replacement line, he's a crummy mechanic. Just make one.
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Old 05-09-2011, 08:58 PM   #13
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I was taught a new trick today. If you rest your foot on the clutch pedal you can feel the pressure bleeding off. This is your master cylinder going bad from what I was told. The master cylinder is a cylinder with a piston that has an o-ring to make the seal. When the o-ring goes bad and the pressure bleeds by the pedal will fall to the floor when slight pressure is applied. I hope this helps someone out in the future.

For the guy with the clutch line issue I am not sure of the details on your jeep but I found the master cylinder, slave cylinder, and the line separate or together online.
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Old 05-10-2011, 08:11 AM   #14
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Unfortunately, the line is different in 92. When they switched to an external slave (94), they switched to a plastic line and a roll pin. 93 and down generally has a metal line. A quick google search didn't come up with anything for me, which isn't that unusual considering that it's a 20 year old part that is extremely simple to make yourself.
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Old 05-10-2011, 09:44 AM   #15
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Thanks for the help guys! My mechanic guy says that he needs to replace the fitting and the line. He looked into having a line made, but he still needs the fitting. Anyone have any ideas where I can find one? (If I search online, what am I looking for? Does it have a name or part number? AND if it comes with a Slave OR Master Cylinder, can someone let me know that and I'll just pick one of those up instead.)

Thanks for the help!!!

-Jim
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Old 05-10-2011, 09:47 AM   #16
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I'm so confused... Are you talking about the fitting on the line that goes into the bell housing? Or the fitting that comes off the end of the line that connects to the fitting that goes into the bell housing?

Either way, it doesn't matter. Cut both fittings off, install a male and female that mate, and flare the ends, the end. I really think it's time to find a new mechanic lol.
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Old 05-10-2011, 09:50 AM   #17
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And why would he need to get a line made? Get a 4 foot long 5/16 brake line and bend it the way it needs to go to route from the master to the slave.

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