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Old 07-04-2013, 06:17 PM   #1
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clutch pedal high...

Hey guys, I've changed my clutch centre plate, pressure plate and release bearing about 2 weeks ago. And was advised my master cylinder my be faulty because it was hard shifting gears. I've replaced the master, and bled it up as best as possible, first time pedal went spongy after 3hrs, 2nd time it seems to be better but my clutch biting point is near the top now. Before it was halfway. Is there still air in do u think?

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Old 07-04-2013, 06:24 PM   #2
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Sounds about normal, most truck type clutches grab towards the end of the throw. If your clutch was grabbing in the middle, or the first half of the movement, you likely had air in the lines.

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Old 07-04-2013, 08:10 PM   #3
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Sounds about normal, most truck type clutches grab towards the end of the throw. If your clutch was grabbing in the middle, or the first half of the movement, you likely had air in the lines.
It should not drive like a truck. In fact a truck clutch should not engage that late. You already have a new clutch, so now its time to figure out if its your slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder.
You did replace the clutch master and not the brake master? I'm assuming so, but just checking.
What year and tranny you have will help too.
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Old 07-05-2013, 05:14 AM   #4
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I have a JY with an ax15 tranny. I just changed the master. And drilled the slave to put a nipple in. The slave did look newer but cant be sure.
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Old 07-05-2013, 05:33 AM   #5
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Yes I did change the clutch master. Lol
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Old 07-05-2013, 12:03 PM   #6
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If you have the external slave, I believe those were a sealed unit with no bleeding (maybe why there was no nipple) I have not heard of anyone drilling it out but I guess it should work. I do know there have been many who end up bleeding the slave several times before fianlly getting all the air out.
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Old 07-05-2013, 12:47 PM   #7
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Yeah the external slave has a threaded hole. But no hole drilled so I installed myself a nipple. People say the are pre bled systems but you can change the master and slave. You just knock the roll pin out and bobs your uncle. But do u guys think there is air still in there. I have tried pumping the slave manually with no more air coming out and I have gravity bled the system by just leaving the nipple open. But still no luck.
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Old 07-05-2013, 11:40 PM   #8
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It should not drive like a truck. In fact a truck clutch should not engage that late.
Most trucks I have driven catch through the outside half of the throw (I sit on my ass and drive more than I should be ). Most Jeeps I have driven grab the same, which is what I was trying to illustrate in my original post.
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Old 07-06-2013, 12:07 AM   #9
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Most trucks I have driven catch through the outside half of the throw (I sit on my ass and drive more than I should be ). Most Jeeps I have driven grab the same, which is what I was trying to illustrate in my original post.
Mines the same way. I agree with xpress
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Old 07-06-2013, 02:00 AM   #10
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Sounds about normal, most truck type clutches grab towards the end of the throw. If your clutch was grabbing in the middle, or the first half of the movement, you likely had air in the lines.
So, air in your brake lines will cause them to lock up? Nope, the pedal will go to the floor and the brakes won't work well.

When you release the clutch pedal, it should grab closer to the floor. The clutch works the same as brakes do, except opposite types of engagement.

To engage the brakes, you push on the brake pedal. I don't like to push it to the floor for my brakes to work, or fully engage.

When you let out on the clutch in a perfect world, it should start engaging within the first couple of inches from the floor. If it takes the full travel of your pedal to engage the clutch, that's like having to put your brake pedal to the floor to stop.

Go ahead and Google how to adjust a mechanical clutch, and the reasons behind it. With some hydraulic clutches, you are kind of stuck with what you got. But it still should engage and disengage on the lower half of the pedal if everything is working correctly. A worn out clutch, weak or leaking clutch master or slave, and air in the lines will all make the pedal engagement higher.

Its not rocket surgery, its just simple hydraulics. Don't over think it.
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Old 07-06-2013, 03:01 AM   #11
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So it's decided then....there is still air or having replaced the master, the slave has now weakend. Shall I pump the buggery out of it?
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Old 07-06-2013, 10:00 AM   #12
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So, air in your brake lines will cause them to lock up? Nope, the pedal will go to the floor and the brakes won't work well.

When you release the clutch pedal, it should grab closer to the floor. The clutch works the same as brakes do, except opposite types of engagement.

To engage the brakes, you push on the brake pedal. I don't like to push it to the floor for my brakes to work, or fully engage.

When you let out on the clutch in a perfect world, it should start engaging within the first couple of inches from the floor. If it takes the full travel of your pedal to engage the clutch, that's like having to put your brake pedal to the floor to stop.

Go ahead and Google how to adjust a mechanical clutch, and the reasons behind it. With some hydraulic clutches, you are kind of stuck with what you got. But it still should engage and disengage on the lower half of the pedal if everything is working correctly. A worn out clutch, weak or leaking clutch master or slave, and air in the lines will all make the pedal engagement higher.

Its not rocket surgery, its just simple hydraulics. Don't over think it.
I am merely stating my real world experiences. To be fair, I drive for a living, and I've probably driven more vehicles with manual transmissions than 95% of the people here (put it this way, I've driven thousands of vehicles). I'd like to think I know what i'm talking about, and several several of these vehicles have less than 5000 miles on their odometers, some are brand spanking new with less than 100!

Mechanical linkages are a bit different than hydraulic linkages...

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