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Old 06-22-2010, 04:54 PM   #1
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Clutch Problem?

I've had my 95 YJ 4 cylinder for less than 4,000 miles without any troubles until this week. I noticed that it was sticking a bit when I shifted. Then, while stopped at a light, I was not able to put it back into gear. When I tried to jam it into gear (stupid in retrospect) it stalled out. It wouldn't go into to second, either. I turned the engine off for about 5 minutes. When I restarted I could put it in gear. I got it off the road and let it sit about half an hour. It made the ten minute trip back home, but when I shifted back down to first to put it in the garage it did the same thing. I tried to put it in reverse, but it would just grind. I'm not sure where my problem is. Clutch, linkage cable, slave cylinder? Anyone else had this happen?

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Old 06-22-2010, 04:59 PM   #2
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well i'm not how different it would be in your tranny since mine is a 4.2 with the ax-15 but i would try to bleed the master cyl. it could be the slave cyl. or the master cyl itself is allowing air to get by and not letting your slave cyl. to work properly. hope this helps.

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Old 06-22-2010, 05:29 PM   #3
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It's a hydrualic clutch so no real linkage. look at the clutch master cylinder under hood, drivers side on the firewall. see if there's fluid in it and see if it's leaking on the fire wall. that's probably the problem, common item to fail.
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Old 06-22-2010, 07:33 PM   #4
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I checked the clutch master cylinder. It had fluid, and was not leaking. I decided to take her out for a spin to get it to act up again. It took 17 minutes. I was on the clutch a lot, stopping and going. It started to get harder to go in gear about a minute before I turned it off, so it went gradually. Toward the end when I would let off the clutch I had to give it gas immediately. It was acting like the clutch was barely depressed when I actually had it to the floor. Does this mean anything to you guys? I'm on awful mechanic, so if there is something I should do put it in lay man's terms for me.
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Old 06-23-2010, 08:33 AM   #5
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your slave cylinder is on the drivers side of the tranny rite under the driver's door.
If you take a small mirror under there with you, you will find an allen screw in the top back end of it just after the hyd line attaches to it. similar to bleeding the brakes, you will have someone pump the peddle about 8-10 times then hold to the floor then release the pressure with the allen screw. MAKE SURE you check the fluid level in the reservoir after each time you release the pressure because it will bleed that small reservoir very quickly.
Here is a pic of the slave cylinder.. if you feel around on the top at the back where the black line connects you will feel the allen wrench I'm referring to..
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Old 06-23-2010, 08:56 AM   #6
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you need to replace the clutch master cylinder . even if it looks like it is not leaking they have a problem when they get a few years old of not being able to hold/and create the pressure it takes to push in the clutch pressure plate ( you are correct saying it is barely working ) .
this will also let you flush all the old fluid out of the system and replace with new.
clutch/brake fluid absorbs water over time and that makes it not work well because as you use your clutch the fluid gets hot and the water can even boil and steam in the system .
since you have a external slave cylinder on your jeep also replace it also .
it is cheap and easy to do.
make sure to power bleed the air from the lines and after you do all of this you will have a new feeling clutch.
give me a call if you have any questions as your wrenching on it.
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Old 06-23-2010, 10:05 AM   #7
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Thanks for your help, everyone. This seems easy enough that I think even I may be able to do it. Scott, do I still need to bleed my lines even if I have good pressure? Even when it's acting up I have never had trouble with the pressure. Thanks again.
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Old 06-23-2010, 10:31 AM   #8
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yes you will need to bleed the system if you replace any of the parts or fluid.
and you should replace the fluid and bleed the system every couple years or more often if you do a lot of wheeling.
the loss of applied clutch pressure from the fluid getting old and tiny air bubbles building over time is so slow you will not notice it, but when you replace the parts we talked about and bleed your system you will feel what you were missing.
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Old 06-23-2010, 11:00 AM   #9
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Me too!

I have a 93 Wrangler that is having the same issues. I just ordered a new master cylinder and will probably install it tomorrow night.
I have roughly 112,000 miles on the Jeep and beleive this MC is the original. I have bled the system several times and keep getting dirty fluid. Pedal comes back up but shifting is still an issue. I will see if new MC makes it right.
Thanks,
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Old 06-23-2010, 12:34 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike in Indiana View Post
I have a 93 Wrangler that is having the same issues. I just ordered a new master cylinder and will probably install it tomorrow night.
I have roughly 112,000 miles on the Jeep and beleive this MC is the original. I have bled the system several times and keep getting dirty fluid. Pedal comes back up but shifting is still an issue. I will see if new MC makes it right.
Thanks,
Mike
a new master cylinder should make a big difference.
you do need to get all the old fluid out.
do you have a power bleeder if not that would be a good tool to add to your
tool box. you can pick one up at most any part store for around 30 bucks.
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Old 06-23-2010, 02:23 PM   #11
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I got a new master from Rockauto.com. Make sure to get the metal one not the plastic one. You need a punch to get the pin out that holds the line to the Master. It's really not that hard and you bleed it like normal.
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Old 07-01-2010, 07:18 AM   #12
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FYI: I had a similiar problem with my '92 Islander, 6.0L, 5-speed. I changed M/C with no change in the problem. Changed S/C throwout bearing unit; that made some difference, but didn't completely solve the issue of not being able to get into gear or out of gear after backing up. I've found that if I shift the selector lever into and out of 4wd, I can then shift the transmission. There must be some kind of linkage problem which I haven't solved..........yet.

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Old 07-08-2010, 10:49 AM   #13
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Okay, I finally replaced the clutch MC with a unit(metal) that I bought at NAPA. I used a power bleeder to change out the fluid and got out all air. The old fluid was dirty beyond belief. Still having problems with gear shifting. I will look at it more this evening. Perhaps put it into 4 wheel and out and see if that makes a difference. I can hear the clutch disengage most of the time, but it seems inconsistent. I will report back.
Thanks,
Mike
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Old 07-08-2010, 04:57 PM   #14
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I can't bring myself to buy a new master cylinder when it's not leaking, low, or dirty. I did try to bleed the fluid through the slave cylinder. I didn't get very far because the bleeder screw was broken. It has some type of ring the head that keeps fluid from escaping. That ring broke off, and now the screw won't go back in. You can't just buy that individual screw, either. I have to buy a whole new slave cylinder.
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Old 07-08-2010, 05:41 PM   #15
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I had the same issue. Intermittent but gradually got worse. I wasn't convinced it was a bad MC/SC even after following much of the advice of posts above. I could not find a leak. After bleeding and recharging I could shift properly for about 15-20 compressions then it would deteriorate leaving me with 3,4 only. Ultimately I bought a used MC/SC online, (because I wasn't sure if this was the problem). Well, I replaced the the whole deal and it works perfectly. I noticed a lot of play in the old SC piston compared to the used one but can't say if one or the other is bad. I can just say it is fun to drive again. I figure I did alright. The used MC/SC together cost me $85.00, I learned a bit, and even if this one goes out in a (insert anytime frame), I am certain I can fix the problem. I'll buy new when this one goes out, assured that the new parts will fix this problem.
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Old 07-08-2010, 07:50 PM   #16
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I'll tell you what I've learned from having a very similiar problem in my 90 YJ... when it comes to tranny issues (clutch, as well), let the pros do it. It is near impossible for somebody here on the forum to read four or five sentences of what symptoms your Jeep is presenting and then be able to THOROUGHLY diagnose your specific issue. If you are losing the ability to shift properly after driving for a while, but you see no fluid leaking from the master cylinder at all, then my best guess would be your slave cylinder. Especially since the problems arise after the Jeep gets to normal operating temp. The temp down by the slave can really cause issues for the seals down there. One of the toughest things those seals have to deal with - HEAT.
That being said, you may change out the slave and find most of your problem gone, but some still remaining. Then you'll want to look at the master cylinder. There are three parts, basically, to your hydraulic clutch - the mc, the hydraulic line and the slave. The problem is - diagnosing. At this point, if it were me and I had an external slave like you (mine was IN the bell housing), I would replace BOTH the master and the slave, just to be sure. It's like changing both brake lights or both headlights. If you are stopping to do one, do them both. Just my .02
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Old 07-08-2010, 10:17 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bighorn View Post
The used MC/SC together cost me $85.00
For a few dollars more you could have gotten an new one.
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Old 07-08-2010, 10:22 PM   #18
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I agree with 1992wranglersahara.
Your problem sounds more like the slave cylinder than anything else.
If you need to replace one you should replace both. New parts cost about $130.00 for both.
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Old 07-09-2010, 04:01 PM   #19
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Quote:
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For a few dollars more you could have gotten an new one.
Yes I could have gotten all new parts for $70-$100 more,(not an exhaustive search but a good representation) but I wasn't sure if this was the problem. Had I put the new ones on and had the same problem I would have been out more dollars. Part of the fun (for me) is tinkering and troubleshooting.
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Old 07-13-2010, 10:29 PM   #20
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replaced the slave cylinder today. drove it for 20 miles with no problems! tomorrow i will take it out for a longer drive. i remembered the two times it has acted up before the temp was pretty hot, and tomorrow will be around 100. i would replace the master as well, but it's kind of a money issue. thanks to everyone for the help.
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Old 07-22-2010, 11:28 PM   #21
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Alright, here is the deal. It won't go into gear at all now. The only way to get the jeep in gear is when it is not turned on. That means it's not in the transmission, but where is the problem?
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Old 02-16-2011, 02:52 PM   #22
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to mbchilton:

i was having the same problem with my 94 yj 4 cyl. when i tore it apart i had the transmission assested by a tranny shop and it was actually the transmission that was ruined. apon further tear down i realised that my clutch bearing was shot and not allowing the clutch to engage properly evenually after several months of abuse causing the transmission to fail. take your tranny out and take it to a reputable transmission shop and let them open it up and see if it is working properly. if it is working then take the clutch apart and see if you can sere a problem there.
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Old 02-02-2012, 02:24 PM   #23
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Clutch problem

Mine started today. So I removed the slave and master right away. I was going to buy a complete system to replace it. But it seems to be working. I can make it function in my hand, so I am beginning to wonder if that is the issue. Pedal went to the floor but, it didn't feel the same. I can reach in the opening for the slave and move the arm back and fourth about 2 ". Is there anything it could be inside like a bearing or something that has gone wrong ?
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Old 02-02-2012, 02:55 PM   #24
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Making it work in your hand is not the same as with the pressure of the pressure plate on the slave. If your pedal went to the floor, I would be looking for a leak. .Probably your master leaking by internally if no leak..
That movement inside the bell is probably the throwout sliding along the transmission input shaft housing.
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Old 01-29-2014, 01:18 PM   #25
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I've got a 92 wrangler, having the same problem with difficulty going into gear. It takes a lot of force to get the stick into gear and the clutch feels looser than before. Going into reverse is worse and makes a screeching noise like the gear is slipping. This just started yesterday. It got extremely cold here and it may be a reason for it. What should I do/replace to fix this?
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Old 01-29-2014, 02:52 PM   #26
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Read thru this entire thread. Try some of the above metioned.

Mine was doing the same thing, turned out to be the throw out bearing. I did a full clutch kit while I had the tranny out.

Also, don't drive it if you have to force the shifter unitll it pops into gear. Very hard on the tranny.
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Old 01-29-2014, 03:02 PM   #27
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How does your Flex plate look? Any grooves in it? It might be that as the clutch warms up the "fingers" get softer and will not dis-engage the clutch all the way.
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Old 01-29-2014, 03:04 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZJD32 View Post
I've got a 92 wrangler, having the same problem with difficulty going into gear. It takes a lot of force to get the stick into gear and the clutch feels looser than before. Going into reverse is worse and makes a screeching noise like the gear is slipping. This just started yesterday. It got extremely cold here and it may be a reason for it. What should I do/replace to fix this?
To me sounds like a slave/ throwout bearing is going to say good bye. I could be very wrong, and I would not be afraid to say there is a good chance that I am.

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