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Old 05-11-2011, 09:32 AM   #1
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Cylinder Head Sludge

So I got a new toy and noticed that I need to replace valve cover gasket. When I took valve cover off there is sludge all inside of it with almost like sandy grit mixed in. I can clean all of it out but does this mean that cylinders are filled with this stuff or it could have happen when previous owned drove it with a bad gasket for a long time? If I do need to take cylinder head off do I need to take apart all the lifters and springs as manual says or I can take it off as a complete assembly? P.S. I just want to get car going for the summer.

Thank You in advance
William

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Old 05-11-2011, 09:34 AM   #2
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Id call that Pennzoil....best way to clean that out is to change the oil to a higher detergent oil. Id put some trop-artic in there and change the filter every 500 miles. Im not a huge fan of it, but it will eventually clean it all out

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Old 05-11-2011, 09:52 AM   #3
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Sounds like a solution I need right now to get the car going quickly. To recap - I'll just clean out cylinder head parts by hand and let Pennzoil trick deal with cylinder bores until I'll have time to get in there and see what's going on. Thanks Ibuildembig.
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Old 05-11-2011, 04:20 PM   #4
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Clean the cover and what you can from the rockers etc but be careful you don't let any fall into the oil drains on the head...make sure these are clean and like said above, use some decent oil. Looks like PO never changed the oil, took short trips and used cheap oil.
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Old 05-13-2011, 09:03 AM   #5
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I would change the oil every 1,000 miles for the next 3 oil changes. Be sure you change the filter as well... Then, after 3,000 miles or 3 changes, pull the cover and see if your looking any better. A high detergent oil is also a good suggestion for these next couple of changes.

Also, be sure and drain the oil while its warm. You get more out that way, just be careful not to let it run up your arm and burn you when you pull the plug. Be quick about it and get the heck out of the way to let it drain. Then, let it drip for at least ten minutes before you fill it back up.
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Old 05-13-2011, 10:03 AM   #6
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Yes change oil every 1,000 or better yet every 500 miles and please give me your used oil to run as fuel in my diesel rig. I love when people change oil frequently and I benefit with free fuel!!
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Old 05-13-2011, 10:13 AM   #7
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lol I use it as well....but to heat my shop
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Old 05-16-2011, 03:06 PM   #8
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I'm glad you guys are already burning my discarded oil, but do you have any tips to wash the sludge off. I tried engine degreaser and true green on the valve cover and it sort off worked over 3 days of rubbing and soaking. I don't see myself doing it to the engine head standing on the bumper and cleaning springs and rods. Anyone got tips to get that accomplished with minimum curse words. Also valve cover has two sort of hollow cast tubes sticking in which are bolted to the cover on a triangular pedestal with 3 hex bolts (I don't know what they are because they are not in the manual) but they are all clogged. Is it safe to take them off and clean, and do I need a gasket to put them back on.

Thanks a lot
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Old 05-16-2011, 03:10 PM   #9
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Purple power or POR15's marine clean is the best you can get IMHO. Tubes? Not sure what you are describing....can you get a pic?
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Old 05-16-2011, 05:01 PM   #10
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Attached are the images of the "tubes" I plan to remove and head I need to clean (sorry about a pic. from the book, I'm not near the car) Were do you get the chemicals you have mentioned.
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Old 05-17-2011, 07:16 AM   #11
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As far as the valve cover when off I would use kerosene or even gas and a paint brush. You could pressure wash the tubes and cover or even take it to the car wash. On the head I would scrape as much sludge as I could get. I would then either pour some Seafoam in the engine or kerosene and run for 15 minutes before each oil change for the next few oil changes. After I did this a few times I would then pull the valve cover back off and look for progress. Eventually you should see some progress.
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Old 05-17-2011, 01:33 PM   #12
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This is funny, a guy from work told me exactly the same thing "clean with kerosene, and run kerosene instead of oil on idle for 2-5 min." I though he was nuts and dismissed him. Well may be if 2 people are saying to do it; it's not so crazy. So is it safe to unscrew that tube sticking out of valve cover on a triangular base (see picture)?

So the plan is:

1. Finish cleaning cover.
2. Clean as much as I can from cylinder head, minding oil drains.
3. Put cover back on.
4. Run engine till warm.
5. Drain oil and put 4qts. of kerosene.
6. Run on idle with kerosene for about 10 min.
7. Change kerosene for oil and drive for 500mi.
8. Change oil and filter every 500mi. (so you can heat your shops), before changing oil run steps 4-7.
9. After 4-5 oil changes take off valve cover and check out what's going on.

If you see that I got something wrong speak now or you'll see an airborne flaming Wrangler (aka "BBQ Starter") flying over your neighborhood.
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Old 05-17-2011, 06:09 PM   #13
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Yeah I've seen people use kerosene to clean engines, a friend did it all the time, drained the oil, poured in 4-5 quarts of kerosene ran down the road and back , drained it and refilled with oil. Car was a big block chevy and it ran great. Of course that was when kerosene was $.25 a gallon............
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Old 05-17-2011, 07:40 PM   #14
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kerosene works great, I run it in engines just before I pull them for a rebuild. When I tear them down it is a lot less messy and I spend a lot less time with the parts washer cleaning parts before sending them to the machine shop.
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Old 05-18-2011, 06:29 AM   #15
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I don't think I would use only kerosene, that's your call though. If it holds 4 quarts of oil then I would use maybe 2 quarts of some cheap oil and then 2 quarts of kerosene and run at idle for a few minutes and drain. I don't think I would drive with kerosene in the crank case. I also on all gas engines I own, just before an oil change I put in a quart of transmission fluid and run for 200-300 miles. I have been doing this for years and have clean engines.
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Old 05-25-2011, 05:54 PM   #16
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I don't know about kerosene trick. I put the valve cover back on, drained the oil, changed oil filter. Poured half and half oil to kerosene in. Started the car. It would run for 2-3 sec (not smoothly) and jerk with a metallic sound, then run for a few sec again and do the same thing. I couldn't stand it for more then 1-2 min. Dumped all the oil-kerosene mixture out and filled it with regular oil. After that the car would shake but not start. After about 10-15 min. it started and a few sec later have a muted metallic clunk with a jerk and I just shut it down. Any ideas? Is kerosene suppose to be clear (doesn't seem like it has a lot of lubricity, it said kerosene on a bottle thou)?
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Old 05-25-2011, 06:08 PM   #17
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Kerosene sounds like a stupid idea to me. If I were you I'd get off this forum and call and engine shop.
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Old 05-25-2011, 08:00 PM   #18
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Sounds like you need to drop the pan and check the oil pump...The pickup was probably pretty well clogged to begin with and the flush finished it off.
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Old 05-25-2011, 09:58 PM   #19
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I seem to recall there were issues of folks using the slick 50 stuff that would almost build a mound around the oil pickup and wreck havoc on bearings. I haven't seen this stuff around in quite a while. perhaps past useage of similar material......Driller
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Old 05-26-2011, 09:25 AM   #20
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Well, I guess on the weekend I'm going to take as much stuff apart to see if I spot anything. What was the white goo that came out with the first oil drain? Is there an easy way to manually turn the engine to feel if something is in the way or rubbing?
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Old 05-26-2011, 03:07 PM   #21
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The white stuff was most likely moisture. You can turn the crank with the bolt on the damper pulley at the front of the engine.
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Old 05-29-2011, 12:27 PM   #22
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Took out spark plugs and cranked the enginee by hand. Most of the time it turnes like butter, but half a turn of the wrench I need to put some muscle into it. Any ideas what can be binding or not lubricated enough? P.S. one of the spark plugs had black deposit on it.
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Old 05-31-2011, 10:45 AM   #23
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It sounds like a bearing seized....have you dropped the pan??
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Old 05-31-2011, 12:38 PM   #24
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My plan is to disconnect the timing belt to isolate
camshaft from crankshaft and see if it's still seizing. If it is then it's to the oil pan, crankshaft, bearings, pistons if not it's to the cylinder head and valves, camshaft, rods. Any tips to get this done simpler-easier, what am I looking for when going through certain steps? Can I spray a little oil thru spark plug hole to may be get lost lube in one of the cylinders?
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Old 05-31-2011, 07:25 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FeldmanWill
My plan is to disconnect the timing belt to isolate
camshaft from crankshaft and see if it's still seizing. If it is then it's to the oil pan, crankshaft, bearings, pistons if not it's to the cylinder head and valves, camshaft, rods. Any tips to get this done simpler-easier, what am I looking for when going through certain steps? Can I spray a little oil thru spark plug hole to may be get lost lube in one of the cylinders?
Yes you can spray wd40 through the plug holes, or you can get what they call weeping oil I believe (but it's the same stuff) I got mine at a cycle shop when I was rebuilding an old bike.
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Old 07-14-2011, 07:36 AM   #26
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Allright it has been a long time updating but here it is. May be this will get a laugh: as to the jeep shaking after kerosene treatment it was that I connected spark plugs in a wrong sequence. I know, I know. But to my defense it was a friend whose
Wrangler it was originally who was swearing up and down that it's all in sequence and easy as pie not until I came out with a book that I found the screw up.


As for kerosene I'm still not sure if it should be done unless you are rebuilding the engine (like somebody mentioned before) who knows what else it might throw off: gaskets, grease and so on. I guess more testing is required.

New problem has come up as I filled up the coolant and drove no more then 200mi and noticed that about 2-3 quarts are missing, I polled out a dipstick and saw white foam almost the whole length of it. I saw the same when I drained the oil for the 1st time there was foam residue in the oil that came out and somebody said it was moisture, also oil pressure seems a little low I noticed it being at 0 before until you hit gas and now it's at 20. So I'm thinking head gasket is blown. Any thoughts? Do I need to pull timing chain off to remove the head as I don't really feel like doing it?
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Old 07-14-2011, 10:27 AM   #27
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Head gasket for sure. At this point I wouldn't trust that motor without a rebuild.
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Old 07-14-2011, 12:23 PM   #28
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Was afraid of that. Will drain some oil from the pan, water from the radiator, and do compression test tonight to double check. I am planning to re-build late fall, I want to get it going to enjoy the summer. If it's the gasket my plan is to lift up cylinder head without taking exhaust and intake manifolds off the head; and swapping the gasket.
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Old 07-14-2011, 12:48 PM   #29
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In my experience its best to expect the worst.from what I have read your bearings are likely not to last long. Put a new head gasket on and travel with a buddy that has a tow strap.
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Old 07-14-2011, 01:53 PM   #30
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What's wrong with my bearings now? Camshaft?

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