Dana 35 Axle removal problem - Jeep Wrangler Forum

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Old 11-18-2013, 07:50 AM   #1
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Dana 35 Axle removal problem

Hi all,
I just got 'done' doing axle seals in the rear, via an article showing how to remove the axles. I've not done this before, and only did the one side that was leaking, but removed both sides and replaces all the brakes.
Anyway, the question-
The article said to 'push in' the axles and remove the c-clip... mad eit sound simple... On the passenger side I needed to use a hammer and monster C-Clamp to push the axle in far enough to remove the clip. The drivers' side wasn't THAT bad, but still used the clamp.
Is this indicitive of a problem?
I also found all but 2 bolts snapped off the 5:46 ring gear.
I ordered new gears and bolts, as well as looking into a new carrier, but trying to get this just road worthy on a budget (otherwise I'd follow advice in other threads and put in an 8.8 with 4:56 gears).

Any thoughts on this would be great.

PS... this is a 94 Wrangler with a 4" Fabtech lift (prof installed I am told) and 35" tires. Not sure who built it or when. A friend owned it for several years before selling it to me dirt cheap.

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Old 11-18-2013, 08:03 AM   #2
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You mean 4.56 gears and the bolts broken I think right? And just FYI Dana 35 + 35" tires = disaster if ring gear bolts and or spider gears. So this most likely will happen again.

To answer your question, no they should slide in easily without much trouble. Did you take out the drive pine (can't think of the real name) that holds the one set if ring gears out before you tried to pull the c-clips?

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Old 11-18-2013, 08:44 AM   #3
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Yeah, followed everything pretty much step-by-step from this link:
D-35 Axle Shaft Removal

Which is what brought me to the Forum.

The truck won't see too much road time, mostly a snow-savior. I just need to get it fixed enough to pass state safety inspection, then I'll start looking at upgrading. At the moment I need to get this done and a new steering shaft, then should be ready to go.

The axle shafts being so hard to push in really worried me and possibly the reason the seal was leaking on that side (or at least that was my thought). I'll start looking at the 8.8 swap... Should be able to locate a rear at the local yard and get the 4:56 gears to swap in.
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:26 PM   #4
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Another related question -
Is there anything that can be done to beef up the D35? I mean, what is inherently wrong with it?
Would throwing in a locker and some Moser axles help hold it together, or is it just not worth the effors due to the bearing/case design?
The only rear I ever had to deal with was the 8.75 in a 69 Roadrunner... Much easier and fairly durable (running 4:30 gears and 600HP)
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Old 11-18-2013, 02:08 PM   #5
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Look up the strength specs on a D35/44 and the Ford 8.8.

He'll just looking at an 8.8 and D35 next to each other will tell the story.

It's easy to see.

I always wonder how much force is applied to axles when wheeling hard rock waterfalls and you have to hardass it through. Once they stop spinning it has to be tremendous.
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Old 11-18-2013, 03:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2manycars View Post
Another related question -
Is there anything that can be done to beef up the D35? I mean, what is inherently wrong with it?
Would throwing in a locker and some Moser axles help hold it together, or is it just not worth the effors due to the bearing/case design?
The only rear I ever had to deal with was the 8.75 in a 69 Roadrunner... Much easier and fairly durable (running 4:30 gears and 600HP)
You can get an 8.8 for less money than a locker for the d35.

I have a Spartan and yukon axles in my d35 and it has held up to 35x13.50s well but Im real easy on it most of the time and its an auto tranny. Im trying to get it to last til I get done building axles for it...

The d35 is not as strong as a d44, 8.8 or the big boys but, It isnt as weak as people make them out to be. A lot of the d35s bad rap is do to operator malfunction, not just being a "crappy axle".

It does sound like yours has some problems though..
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Old 11-18-2013, 03:45 PM   #7
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For the cost of "beefing" up a D35 you can get a 8.8 built or a D44 built for about the same. The super 35 kit is stupidly expensive!

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