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Old 01-13-2014, 06:26 AM   #1
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DIY Sound Bar

I wanted to add a sound bar but didn't want to pay $150+ for something with crappy speakers. So I made my own. While I was add it I redid my interior lights. My door switches were shot so I didn't have any interior lights, which doesn't seem like a big deal until you don't have any.

Supply list:
1 sheet of 4 foot by 2 foot by 1/2 inch piece of MDF - $6
1 pair of Pyle 6.5s - $20 from Amazon
2 LED lights - $20 from amazon
2 new door switches - $20 from Morris 4x4
Speaker wire, wood glue, screws etc etc - $25

I decided to go with a cheaper speaker b/c of reviews and application. This is a Jeep not a concert hall. I went with 6.5s for a lower mounting depth than 6x9s.

This is a look at the inside. I separated the speaker boxes from the rest of the sound bar. I sealed the speaker boxes and filled with poly fill, probably over kill.


A look at the bottom.


Finished


I used this switch to act as a "Door", "off", "on" switch that most cars have for dome lights. It will allow me to take the doors off and not have the LEDs on. But at the same time I can switch the lights on at any time.


This is an explanation of how it is mounted.


Head room is a factor with this setup. My sound bar is a total of 2.75 inches think. The sides are 1.75 inches and the top and bottom are each .5 inches thick. The back of the sound bar extends over the roll bars, so from the top of the roll bar the sound bar extends 2.25 inches. I added 1 .5 inch spacer to raise it up a half inch. I think there is room to raise it another 1 inch total and I will probably do this later. I am 5'8" and can clear it as is. If you are over 6 foot probably not. If height really is a factor you could do this same idea in the back area or go with speakers that aren't 6.5 inches across. This will allow your sound bar to be thinner, thus not extend forward so much.

Currently it is painted black and is not water prof at all. I will be giving it a coat of monsta liner when I do my tub.

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Old 01-13-2014, 06:36 AM   #2
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That's awesome. I have a sound bar and hate it. The cheap lights rattles and the plastic looks cheap. I might build one like yours and ditch the plastic. Good work.

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Old 01-13-2014, 06:49 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Thomas S View Post
I wanted to add a sound bar but didn't want to pay $150+ for something with crappy speakers. So I made my own.
Nice man looks great i have been thinking about doing something like this since my factory speakers are completely shot, i already replaced the dash speakers but i held out on the overheads so that i would stay interested in making my own bar. Also i hate the interior lights, mine still work but they just arent bright enough for my liking. This has motivated me to get this done as soon as the weather improves. i dont have a garage :-/or else i would be heading to the hardware store right now!
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Old 01-13-2014, 06:52 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by Pittsburghwrangler View Post
Nice man looks great i have been thinking about doing something like this since my factory speakers are completely shot, i already replaced the dash speakers but i held out on the overheads so that i would stay interested in making my own bar. Also i hate the interior lights, mine still work but they just arent bright enough for my liking. This has motivated me to get this done as soon as the weather improves. i dont have a garage :-/or else i would be heading to the hardware store right now!
Good deal, if you have any questions about anything just let me know.
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Old 01-13-2014, 06:54 AM   #5
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Good deal, if you have any questions about anything just let me know.
Well since you offered lol i have never done anything with led lights, how do you go about wiring them in?
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:15 AM   #6
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Well since you offered lol i have never done anything with led lights, how do you go about wiring them in?
I used these, just get something made for 12v.

Amazon.com : LED Bar Light - Heavy Duty, Water resistant 12 Volt DC LED courtesy convenience lamp, 4" length : Led Household Light Bulbs : Home Improvement

The way our door switches work is they ground the circuit to the body when the door is open, so this completes the circuit.

So, I ran a wire from the battery up to the positive of the LEDs. Then, from the negative I ran it down to my switch that I pictured. I ran it into the "power" input of the switch. From the "I" position I ran a wire to both door switches. This way when the switch is in position "I" the circuit will be complete when a door is open.

In "II" I ran a wire to a ground, so any time the switch is in pos "II" the circuit is complete and the lights come on.

I should have used an inline fuse, but I didn't and I am not overly concerned about it.
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Old 01-13-2014, 07:21 AM   #7
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Awesome thank you for the info i really can wait to get this done!
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Old 01-13-2014, 06:56 PM   #8
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Out of curiosity how thick is that. I think it would be cool to build one that goes behind the center roll bar and put two 8" subs in it. I already have a 4 channel amp with two open channels in the jeep.
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Old 01-14-2014, 06:20 AM   #9
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Out of curiosity how thick is that. I think it would be cool to build one that goes behind the center roll bar and put two 8" subs in it. I already have a 4 channel amp with two open channels in the jeep.
Did you read everything in my post?

It is a total of 2.75 inches thick. I go into a little detail at the end about the thickness. The wood I am using is .5 inches thick, so I can fit a speaker with a mount depth up to 2.25 inches (in theory).
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Old 01-14-2014, 06:34 AM   #10
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I did the first time I read it but this was an after thought. Got too excited about the possibility of overhead sub. Now I need to see if there are some shallow mount 8" subs.
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Old 01-14-2014, 05:21 PM   #11
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Great write up. i'm doing this! I'll just plastidip the mdf.
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Old 01-14-2014, 05:49 PM   #12
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I really like the whole idea. Good job. I may just have to try something like that myself. Thanks for the write up.
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Old 01-14-2014, 11:07 PM   #13
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Man, that's a great job you did! I'd F--- up and fill it with Mud, OH Yes, even UP There.
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Old 01-15-2014, 06:44 AM   #14
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Thanks guys! Hopefully this will help you out. Either as a starting point and you can adapt it to your needs or copy directly.
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Old 01-16-2014, 02:57 PM   #15
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I did the same thing but mounted it behind the main hoop so head room isn't an issue. If someone rides in the back... They'll have an issue but I won't.

I mounted 6x9's in mine with a small amp inbetween the speakers. I raised the center section lid to create a gap for airflow.
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Old 01-17-2014, 02:31 AM   #16
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Any more detail on the mounts to the roll bar? I see zip ties but would like to know more.
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Old 01-17-2014, 06:05 AM   #17
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Any more detail on the mounts to the roll bar? I see zip ties but would like to know more.
I drilled 2 holes in the support that rests on the roll bar (see my hand drawn picture). Currently there are 2 small zip ties. I am going to upgrade them a bit just for a little piece of mind.

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