I wanted to add a sound bar but didn't want to pay $150+ for something with crappy speakers. So I made my own. While I was add it I redid my interior lights. My door switches were shot so I didn't have any interior lights, which doesn't seem like a big deal until you don't have any.
1 sheet of 4 foot by 2 foot by 1/2 inch piece of MDF - $6
1 pair of Pyle 6.5s - $20 from Amazon
2 LED lights - $20 from amazon
2 new door switches - $20 from Morris 4x4
Speaker wire, wood glue, screws etc etc - $25
I decided to go with a cheaper speaker b/c of reviews and application. This is a Jeep not a concert hall. I went with 6.5s for a lower mounting depth than 6x9s.
This is a look at the inside. I separated the speaker boxes from the rest of the sound bar. I sealed the speaker boxes and filled with poly fill, probably over kill.
A look at the bottom.
I used this switch to act as a "Door", "off", "on" switch that most cars have for dome lights. It will allow me to take the doors off and not have the LEDs on. But at the same time I can switch the lights on at any time.
This is an explanation of how it is mounted.
Head room is a factor with this setup. My sound bar is a total of 2.75 inches think. The sides are 1.75 inches and the top and bottom are each .5 inches thick. The back of the sound bar extends over the roll bars, so from the top of the roll bar the sound bar extends 2.25 inches. I added 1 .5 inch spacer to raise it up a half inch. I think there is room to raise it another 1 inch total and I will probably do this later. I am 5'8" and can clear it as is. If you are over 6 foot probably not. If height really is a factor you could do this same idea in the back area or go with speakers that aren't 6.5 inches across. This will allow your sound bar to be thinner, thus not extend forward so much.
Currently it is painted black and is not water prof at all. I will be giving it a coat of monsta liner when I do my tub.