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Old 05-17-2010, 08:56 AM   #1
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Dropping the oil pan

Hi,

I am changing the oil and want to drop the oil pan to make sure there is no gunk needing to be taken care of there, since I get weird oil pressure readings. Is it a hard thing to do with regular tools, with the jeep sitting on the driveway? I am not a mechanic, but I am suborn as hell, so if there are no very special tools needed I think I might give it a go. As for now 100% of repairs and maintenance on the jeep were done by me, and I would like to keep it that way :>

Anything I should be looking out for?

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Old 05-17-2010, 09:37 AM   #2
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it is very simple especially on a 4 cyl. i guess its an ok idea, but i'd start elsewhere looking for an oil pressure issue. i'd start by verifying the readings with a mechanical test gauge. its not uncommon for the oil sender to go bad, you can't rely on the gauge on the dash right off the bat every time.

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Old 05-17-2010, 09:47 AM   #3
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You will need:

Case of beer
A buddy
A gasket set for starters
Some Gasket make or permatex
A socket set with some extensions and a 7/16 Deep socket.
A Razor blade scraper
Oil
Filter
Rags
Hand Cleaner

Step one: Drain oil and remove oil filter, I am assuming you know this one. If not take to local shop and have someone else do it.

Step two: Disconnect battery, you have to remove the starter and disconnect it to get to a couple of the bolts on the oil pan. real easy slides right in and out. there is a shim on top thought make sure that goes back in.

Step three: remove starter, there are 2 bolts holing it in place and 2 wires connected to it.

Step four: Pull the oil pan.

Step five: scrape all surfaces and clean whatever gunk you came in for. Make sure all of the old gasket is off the oil pan and motor.

Step six: If it is like my motor I went into this weekend you will find a piston skirt in the bottom of your oil pan. If no piston skirt disregard step six.

Step seven: Put permatex or gasket make (make sure it is high heat) on oil pan to help keep new gasket in place. do not rely on permatex or gasket make to seal up and be a gasket like the previous owner of my Jeep did. Doesn't work. the front rubber gasket has little points on it that will help hold it in place and the rear seal will do the same. the only ones you need to place on the oil pan are the two side pieces. Put Permatex on the motor and place gaskets in place and fit up oil pan. There are 4 corner bolts that are a little bigger than the rest of them, you snug these up first to hold it in place then you can put the rest of the bolts in.

Step eight: replace starter and hook wires back up.

step nine: Hook battery back up.

Step ten: drink beer with your buddy that handed ya tools and held the oil pan up while you replaced the bolts and cussed with ya when stuff didn't go right.

Step eight: replace oil plug and filter(should always use a new filter) and fill with oil.

I hope this helps, I have some pictures of what you will find when you get in there on my latest project post if ya care to check them out. you can always message me if you have any further question. This project can take anywhere from 30 minutes to numerous hours depending on you skill level, comon sense, how many beers you drink and how many buddies you have telling you different ways you should do it.
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Old 05-17-2010, 09:58 AM   #4
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i know you said don't rely on the silicone, but it does not need to be everywhere. it only needs to be in 4 small spots, about a dime size where seems come together on the motor. i absolutely hate people goobing silicone on gaskets that don't call for it.

the gasket is designed to seal when installed correctly, and torqued correctly, silicone just causes more problems.

there are really cool little plastic studs that came with a gasket set i got once, they threaded into the bolt holes, and were tapered, they held the gasket and pan in place while starting the bolts. coolest thing ever.
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Old 05-17-2010, 10:22 AM   #5
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I agree with jpdocdave on looking elsewhere first for the oil pressure issue. If the gauge is pinned all the way to the right try pulling the dash and cleaning the printed circuit board behind the gauge. If its reading low (like my 91 was) try replacing the oil sending unit. Very easy job unpug the old one screw it out of the block screw the new on in and plug it back up. Good as new and it should be around $20 or under. On my 4.0 it was on the pass side behind the oil filter. Also get a haynes manual its a good start.
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Old 05-17-2010, 10:25 AM   #6
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Hey Austin, thanks for the clear writeup, seems easy enough. I will start with step ten then!

Thanks!
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Old 05-17-2010, 10:30 AM   #7
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JD is right though don't rely on that for the oil pressure problem and you only need enough silicone to hold everything in place while you put the bolts in. the new gasket is for sealing off.
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Old 05-17-2010, 05:21 PM   #8
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Yeah looks like I messed up some numbering there at the end, sorry I was in a hurry at work and didn't have time to proof read.
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Old 05-18-2010, 05:04 AM   #9
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I thought it was after the beer, cheers!
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Old 05-18-2010, 07:11 AM   #10
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IMO...if you wanna' clean out the "gunk" run something like AMS Engine Flush or change your oil more frequently using a full synthetic.

You look for trouble it might find you...
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Old 05-18-2010, 09:48 AM   #11
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I drained my oil last Friday night, pulled the valve cover, and ran a couple gallons for diesel through the motor and let it evaporate over night then pulled everything the next morning cleaned a little up and put her back together.
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Old 05-18-2010, 10:41 AM   #12
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I ran only a flush last oil change when I bought it, no idea how often the PO did the oil changes and what is left there.

If its filthy and it helps the better, if not I learn something. Also, wrenching is fun!
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Old 06-27-2010, 07:45 AM   #13
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I have a 94 YJ and the drain plug is screwed up (has a piggy back plug which involved me running a tap into the hole to get it it to screw in) so I was thinking of replacing the oil pan since its showing appreciable external rust anyway. Question: will the pan clear the front axle when you drop it for removal and replacement?
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Old 06-27-2010, 08:15 AM   #14
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yes

jack it up and support it by the frame so the axle sags, some jeeps i have to drop the steering linkages down, but most do not.
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Old 06-28-2010, 08:10 AM   #15
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I'll have to take a look at what it takes to jack up the frame with the gear on have on hand. Would be nice to get a couple jack stands to support it and jack up just high enough so the axle hangs and the tires are just still touching the ground for safety.

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