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Old 05-14-2012, 09:18 PM   #1
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Emissions Help!

Ok fellow yj's i dont even know where to begin...So i bought this 89 4.2 wrangler about mid feb from a guy off of craigslist big tires rims, half top ,Cool looks who could resist right? Didnt realy think to much or find out any deep info and bought it on the spot. So got home was satisfied and was ready to start upgrading bought a motorcraft 2150 from the ebay guy(if you know what im taking bout) and stuck it on there, it never had any of the pulse air stuff and had no choke on the orginal carb didnt realy think it suspicious at the time. Took it to the colorado emissions test and found out the guy before me had tryed to pass 6times already So i went through and failed in CO and HC . I just failed my 3d for me and am fustrated and runing out of ideas . Some of the things ive done is the motorcraft 2150, Tfi/Juicebox distributer, New MagnaFlow Cat And Muffler, Seafoam Cleanout , New Optima Battery. And various other onrelated upgrades such as sound. Ohter than that and the 32 inch wheels everything else is stock. Heres the result for the last test which is simalar to the other two.Plz help meh

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Old 05-14-2012, 09:50 PM   #2
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it takes a very qualified tinkerer to be able to adjust the carb and timing in order to get a carbureted motor to burn clean. my suggestion to you is either find a guy that knows how to make the adjustments or... buy yourself a timing light and a vacuum gauge and attempt to do it yourself. you can also try running a hotter spark plug.

i have an 87 with the 4.2L and i went thru numerous carbs til i finally settled with a Holley 390cfm 4bbl. i had the MC2150 and hated it as much as the Edelbrock performer, seemed like the slightest change in weather or humidity and they were out of whack.

it is possible to get that motor to run, and run well. i have over 30 years into tinkering with the carbs on my stock car, and this jeep about took me to whits end trying to figure it out.

since you did the carb and juicebox, i assume that you have already done the nutter bypass on the computer? failed in CO means that you are running too rich, and the carb needs leaned out. As far as the HydroCarbons, i have heard that a few guys ran their tank down to almost empty, then put a few bottles of drygas in it with a qtr tank of premium gas just before taking it in for the test.

its hard to say what is the best route for you, without hearing or seeing the motor itself i cant really make a judgement on what you should change or not change. i'm just throwing out ideas based on what has happened with mine and what i've heard from others.

good luck.

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Old 05-14-2012, 11:05 PM   #3
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bmw guys put in rubbing alcohol, the high % kind when they go to test if they have previous failures. lots of alcohol on premium gas
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Old 05-14-2012, 11:14 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by 0III0forlife View Post
it takes a very qualified tinkerer to be able to adjust the carb and timing in order to get a carbureted motor to burn clean. my suggestion to you is either find a guy that knows how to make the adjustments or... buy yourself a timing light and a vacuum gauge and attempt to do it yourself. you can also try running a hotter spark plug.

i have an 87 with the 4.2L and i went thru numerous carbs til i finally settled with a Holley 390cfm 4bbl. i had the MC2150 and hated it as much as the Edelbrock performer, seemed like the slightest change in weather or humidity and they were out of whack.

it is possible to get that motor to run, and run well. i have over 30 years into tinkering with the carbs on my stock car, and this jeep about took me to whits end trying to figure it out.

since you did the carb and juicebox, i assume that you have already done the nutter bypass on the computer? failed in CO means that you are running too rich, and the carb needs leaned out. As far as the HydroCarbons, i have heard that a few guys ran their tank down to almost empty, then put a few bottles of drygas in it with a qtr tank of premium gas just before taking it in for the test.

its hard to say what is the best route for you, without hearing or seeing the motor itself i cant really make a judgement on what you should change or not change. i'm just throwing out ideas based on what has happened with mine and what i've heard from others.

good luck.
Yeah it is nutter bypassed lol this jeep has drivin me pretty crazy and by the looks of it thats not gonna stop anytime soon. The second test the hydrocarbons passed barly but the CO stayed high so would there be a relationship if the mixture was to high causing the CO and the unburned would be at failt for the HC? And how diffuclt would the tinkiring with timing and vaccum be just in a general sence? Thanks for the direction it helps
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Old 05-14-2012, 11:17 PM   #5
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bmw guys put in rubbing alcohol, the high % kind when they go to test if they have previous failures. lots of alcohol on premium gas
Haha really???
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Old 05-15-2012, 12:59 AM   #6
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How do they perform the tests there?
Are they still doign Idle and 2500 RPM? or do they drive it on a Dyno and 15 and 25 MPH?

CO is partially burnt fuel, your running WAY to rich, the HC is unburnt fuel, and since you barley passed im going to assume its a byproduct of the high CO.

Rubbing alcohol wont cure CO issues, sorry.
Can you scan and post the copy of your actual test numbers, all of them, not just the ones they regulate. (HC, CO, CO2, NOX, O2..., add RPM, Test speed)
Automatic or manual?

Also, if you ant to end your emissions issues, a permanent but expensive fix is to install this:
http://howellefi.com/tbi-kit-1987-91...ons-legal.html

FYI: I am a Cali smog tech, we are Harsh about this stuff here, so training is intense....
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Old 05-15-2012, 02:54 AM   #7
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How do they perform the tests there?
Are they still doign Idle and 2500 RPM? or do they drive it on a Dyno and 15 and 25 MPH?

CO is partially burnt fuel, your running WAY to rich, the HC is unburnt fuel, and since you barley passed im going to assume its a byproduct of the high CO.

Rubbing alcohol wont cure CO issues, sorry.
Can you scan and post the copy of your actual test numbers, all of them, not just the ones they regulate. (HC, CO, CO2, NOX, O2..., add RPM, Test speed)
Automatic or manual?

Also, if you ant to end your emissions issues, a permanent but expensive fix is to install this:
Jeep TBI Products :: TBI KIT: 1987-91 YJ Wrangler 4.2L Emissions Legal - Howell Engine Developments, Inc.

FYI: I am a Cali smog tech, we are Harsh about this stuff here, so training is intense....
We do the dyno as far as i know its /M 240 tests. Not quite sure in the speed but it looks to be 25 to 15 two times then to 35-stop and then up to 60. The jeep is a manual and those these two sheets are the info they give you after the test.
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Old 05-15-2012, 11:30 PM   #8
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Your carb is DUMPING fuel, and WAY to much of it, the CO is the result, and the HC is a by product so...

Install a Pulse Air system, and replace your carb with something designed to run that engine.

What im looking at tells me you are running a computer controlled carburetor, and the computer is not present, the carb is in the "Limp Home" mode dumping way more fuel then is needed.

Your top limit is 25. and your almost 3x that limit at 71.xx
Your CO2 is in GPM, im familiar with % CO2 measures combustion performance (you want 14.7% total volume to be CO2).
Your CO2 looks a bit low, I would expect 500ish GPM
Your NOX is perfect, but that MIGHT be because all that CO and HC are keeping the combustion process cooler, DO NOT go LEAN, your NOX will skyrocket if you go lean.

Here is the good news, that Howell TBI kit I linked, legally allows you to remove the Pulse Air system, and IS APPROVED in all 50 states, your Jeep will have a TON more power.
Can you afford it? or do you want to scrounge around different auto wreckers trying to piece a pulse air setup together, and do the "trial and error" game replacing carbs until you find one that works?

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http://www.wranglerforum.com/f330/2x...ad-490865.html
'04 SV1000s:
http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=280873
Old Jeep that was totaled (and SOLD!):
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f330/2x...ad-101879.html
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