This thread will cover my install of some flat tube fenders. Lots of pictures and information that was not covered in the instructions.
This may be a lengthy thread, I apologize, but I wanted it to be easy to follow. The pictures have a lot of captions also.
I purchased the "SCHMITTYBILT" flat fenders of ebay for about $225. These are the knock offs of the Smittybilt fenders. I was leary when I purchased them
. I didn't know how well they would be made. I was very pleased when the 40lb box got delivered, they are very good, heavy quality fenders. They did not come with instructions, which was stated in the item description, but you can download "like" instructions off of the smitty website.
1. I started off by measuring my height of existing fender to tires. About 4.75 inches.
2. Downloaded and printed instructions from smitty
3. Took the hood latch off with a 7/16 wrench and popped out the hood bump stop with my "bump stop removal tool".
4. Disconnect the marker light assembly (by twisting) and removed the marker lens.
5. Made a template of the inner side of the tube fender out of cardboard. Used the template to draw my cut marks on the fender, I went smaller than the template. When you get close to the fire wall, I used the width of a wrench for the distance from fender lip to cut line.
PB Blaster is your Friend!!!
6. Remove the 5 bolts from under the fender that secure it to the radiator support. You don't have to remove the brace if you don't want.
7. Next, begin the cutting! This was the scarest part for me, cutting perfectly good fenders. Begin in the middle (where the inner fender starts to go down), cut a notch at the mid point and then cut towards the front, all the way to the bottom of the fender on the front of the "drop".
I used a saw zall, a jig saw and a dremel with a cutting wheel. The SZ sucked
, the jig saw was best for open areas and the dremel was used for tight spots, like around the support bracket on the inner fender to radiator support.
8. Once you have cut to the front you should be able to pull the fender out to the side, pivoting where you cut the notch in step 7. This will give you better access to cut the inner fender.
I removed the washer res and the coolant res for better access on the passenger side. On the drivers side I didn't remove anything, not even the battery (should've though).
9. At this point unbolt the top 3 bolts that mount the rear of the fender to the firewall. The 4th bolt (lowest) is hard to get to, just loosen it, if you can.
10. Back to cutting. Should be able to pull the rear of the fender out about an inch or so from the body. Cut the line on top of the fender all the way to end or rear. Then, cut the inner fender. The cut line should be from top to bottom, from 1-2 inches inside from outer edge.
11. At this point the outer fender should pull free from the cut fender. This now makes it very simple to get to the bottom bolt on the firewall.
YAY! Your half way done!
Take a look around, clean stuff up, remove stuff, this is a good time.
Reassembly starts now
12. Place your tube fender on top of your cut fender. Loosely install the 3 bolts that connect to the firewall and the 4 that bolts to the radiator support.
13. Align your cut fender under the tube fender plate, drill your upper holes for the fasteners that are supplied. Install and tighten the upper fender fasteners.
14. Tighten the 3 firewall bolts and the 4 front support bolts.
15. From under the fender, drill the existing holes from the cut fender for the hood latch. Install latch.
16. There is a hole in the front of the fender where your marker light can go, perfect fit or cut the wires. Your choice.
17. Measure your height. I gained about 3 inches of clearance.
18. Admire your hard work!!
Took 2 evenings after work to finish. About 4 hours the first night, about 2 hours the second night. One fender per night. The second fender goes a lot faster!!!
Hope this helps. If you have any questions feel free to ask.