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Old 09-13-2009, 04:46 PM   #1
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Fuel pump initially won't activate. '95 YJ

I've been having fuel pump problems for a couple months now. The pump initially won't turn over, so i wait with the ignition turned halfway, and depending on how cold/warm it is, the pump will eventually make a loud series of clicks before it activates and my check engine light comes on (indicating fuel is flowing once again).

Once the pump clicks over, she starts everytime, and for the most part runs well, except for when i'm approaching a stop, in which case the engine sputters a bit and seems to be short of fuel. On cold mornings it will take a couple minutes for the pump to turn over. I'm assuming the pump is just slowly going, but i'm not familiar with wrangler fuel systems. Could it be anything else? Fuel pressure regulator? Bad connection? I'd hate to order a pump and install it and figure out it's still not the issue. Thanks!

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Old 09-14-2009, 10:04 AM   #2
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when it doesnt work, it might be worth it to check and see if you have power at the pump. it could be the relay not engaging. on my 90, the relay is under the hood on the passenger side.

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Old 09-14-2009, 10:20 AM   #3
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yeah, swap the relay out with one of the others. or maybe just a reseat will work.
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Old 09-14-2009, 09:45 PM   #4
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Alright, thanks guys. I'll get a voltage meter on the pump this weekend. Only other concern is, if the relay was the problem, would that be causing the pump to make the loud clunks when activating? Aren't loud pumps a sign that they're going? Thanks for the help
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Old 10-04-2009, 11:47 PM   #5
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When it's cold turn the key on and see if the check engine light is on. If not wait until you hear the relay start clicking and watch for the light to come on. If that happens and than it starts it's your PCM. I fought the same problem for months until I put in a new PCM and now it runs great.
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Old 10-05-2009, 12:06 AM   #6
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I'm wondering if this is whats wrong with my YJ, if I try and start it cold the starter just turns over and over and over with no sound of possibly starting. I have to pump the gas a few times then hold the peddle in about 1/4 way for it to start.
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Old 10-05-2009, 11:05 AM   #7
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read "fuel problem need help bad" thread just above yours. it says something about the fuel pump cycling.
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Old 10-08-2009, 07:06 AM   #8
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same problem, fuel pump

hi guys,

94' Jeep YJ here, 4.0 HO. Same problem, I normally wait about 15-20 seconds in the morning, I hear the relay and the check engine light pops, then she'll fire and run like a champ. But, until I hear the pump kick on, nothing.

This morning she sat for almost a minute when I got impatiant and bumped the engine over a couple times to shake it up a little. Then, after almost two minutes of bumping it over a turn or two and waiting, then my light came on and I heard the pump kick. Its really easy to hear it, I don't have any carpet in there right now, the sound just echos through the jeep when it makes its growl.

I've got a couple things out of this thread and am very thankful,

Today I will reseat my relays, if that does not help I suppose I should go after a new PCM.

Thanks!

-Chris
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Old 10-08-2009, 12:37 PM   #9
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I went through my relay box at lunch today, it was open on the corners, dirty as all heck in there. Pulled 'em, cleaned a bit and re-seated 'em all. Some of the fuses next to the relays were even crooked in there. Tonight after work I really want to go through all the wiring and everything else under hood as I just got it and hav'nt inspected everything yet...

I also noticed all the relays (without abs) are the same, the abs ones might be the same but mine are missing as abs is not installed... So, I might swap the fuel pump relay with another one to test for a couple days. I also plan to inspect all of the wiring from the relay box to the PCM and ensure that is good. (and spray with silicon...) I'm really leaning towards a crappy connection just because it only does it when it is cold or really wet outside. The PCM's are tested down to like -140 degrees and up to 130 degrees at least and they are supposed to operate normal. Not ruling it out of the equasion, just trying to isolate to true cause before spending the $$$.

will update when I find anything else...
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Old 10-09-2009, 10:01 AM   #10
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not a lot of luck with it... I pulled all the relays and cleaned 'em good, cleaned the relay box out, checked all wiring, re-assembled and sprayed w/silicon. Still, same issue. I also swapped my relay with the horn and there is no change. Unfortunately, looks like the PCM may have to be replaced. I say unfortunately because of the price on those little buggers!
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Old 10-10-2009, 03:27 PM   #11
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Hi Chris I went through all the same things you mentioned. I found a used pcm on ebay for 100.00 plugged it in and all problems solved
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Old 10-12-2009, 07:09 AM   #12
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thanks much guys, I am really PO at this morning. Thought maybe slamming the door would help, no luck! After about ten minutes of messing with it and almost running my battery dead I gave up and got the car out. I found the PCM on the firewall, should'nt be to hard to to get to once I remove the washer resevoir.

Whats your opinion on getting one? Anybody know an answer to this?

If I get a used one, am I chancing the same problem?

Do I have to have it programmed to my vehicle with VIN/Mileage, etc... or does'nt that matter? I've seen both ways on eBay and am not against spending the extra doe if I know it'll work for me.

Thanks!
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Old 10-12-2009, 10:58 AM   #13
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My 93 yj has same problem. i looked for bad connections and seated all of the relays and didn't know where to go from there. For anyone with this problem it only gets worse and this morning was a long wait (20 minutes). I'm looking for a PCM right now and thank you all for the info. Happy trails!
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Old 10-12-2009, 12:45 PM   #14
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geese, I did'nt wait twenty minutes...

I gave up after almost ten and got in my car. Had it not been for having the car still, I'd of been stranded and waiting as well. Today I pulled the battery out and am putting in a new one. It runs it almost dead when the key is on with the radio while I'm waiting. I know the battery is very old, I wanted to replace it anyway.

But, that aside, I'm looking at the PCM option as well before it gets to cold up here.

I found two ways to go,
either 1. Buy it now for $249.00 send them the old one and it is lifetime warrantied.
or, option 2. Send them my computer and wait for repair and shipback for $124.95

Being I can use my other car, I will probably pull it out and go with option 2. If I needed it right away, option 1. would be the ticket.

Option 1. $249 eBay item number: 350235302131

Option 2. $124.95 eBay item number: 350234906016 (I have them on the phone, this option will not work it is only for 96' - 2003)
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Old 10-12-2009, 01:00 PM   #15
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I was able to get the new control module for $225.00 by calling them at 1-888-664-8787. With shipping, my total on the new PCM is $255.00 and should arrive within 3-4 business days. Will report back when swapped out...

I'm keepin' my fingers crossed!
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Old 10-19-2009, 07:50 AM   #16
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Mornin'

I am extremely impressed with the new PCM for my 1994 Wrangler. They only hit me up for $235 instead of $255 like we talked about. The part arrived Friday, looked great. Nice refurb, painted, sealed, labeled, looks new. It was super easy to change and the problems are gone. I put it in Saturday and tested a few times. Got up Sunday and it was 25 degrees here in MI, I went out and turned the key, immediatly the check engine light came on, the fuel pump kicked on and the check engine light went back out. She fired right up without a hitch and my check engine light has not been back on. Same this morning, its a damp 37 degrees... no problems at all.

Tools needed:
A short phylips screwdriver
Small socket set w/metric sockets

Time involved, 15 Minutes taking my time and sipping coffee while working

To change it out;
1. Remove the screw on the inside top of the windshield washer resevoir.
2. Slide the washer resevoir straight up out of its slot and set aside. If you leave the hoses and wires attached to it, there is enough to move it over out of the way. Just be sure if the hose pops off the bottom that you put it back on or you'll hear some strange dripping in the middle of the project like I did
3. Use an (8mm) socket to unscrew the cable from the front of the wiring harness, once loose the cable will come free. Remember, the cable has a lot of small holes in the connector for the pins, don't get it dirty. Set aside or hang out over the fender to keep it clear of anything. (Note- The white stuff is electrical grease)
4. The PCM has (3) screws in it. I had an 8mm socket fit perfectly. (2) on the top and (1) on the bottom. Loosen these, remove 'em and pull the PCM out.
5. When putting the new one in, it makes it easy to line up if you put the bottom screw through the hole, then look behind it on an angle and put that screw tip right into the hole first while lowering it into place. Then move onto the top two screws... Its easier this way -vs- trying to find all three holes without being able to see the bottom one.
6. Then, line the cable back up where it fits in the front of the new PCM. Ensure it is center to not fudge up the pins, I had to line mine up then give it a couple good wacks with my hand for it to seat tight enough for the screw to catch and pull it the rest of the way into place. Tighten it down, but don't over tighten. Remember your screwing into an aluminum sleeve, not steel. Very snug is tight enough.

Soooo happy to have the jeep back! Yeah, in my case, it was worth the $235 to know it will start every morning. And to think, what would a dealer charge me to change it??? If you've built a car model and have even the slightest mechanical ability, you can do this. Its a number 2 on a 1-10 difficulty scale.
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Old 10-21-2009, 09:44 PM   #17
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Glad I could help. keep on jeepin
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Old 01-04-2010, 08:52 AM   #18
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hi guys & gals,

Its a very cold Zero degrees here in Mayville MI this morning, thank you again for the help on this. I went out all bundled up, reached in the door, turned the key and she fired right up again.

Wanted to make the point, indeed, this worked. Im going on a few months now without any issues. And when its this cold out, issues would suck.

Thanks again, and Happy New Year!

-Chris
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Old 01-04-2010, 06:33 PM   #19
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Wow, that is exactly what was happening to my 94 yj. Since it's gotten really cold here in MN, it takes forever to start. When I turn the key I have to wait for a clicking noise and this will go on for about 5 sec. The clicking noise is coming from the fuse and relay box under the hood. I noticed that it starts after turning the key three times. I had a mechanic tell me the valve on the fuel pump stick and this opens it?! Not sure if that's the case but either way i need to fix it. Thanks so much for the posts!!!
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Old 10-08-2010, 08:43 AM   #20
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sevenservices how long have you had that new PCM? I bought one for mine and after a few months it started again... Ive sent it back once already I hope this time it fixes it for good.
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Old 10-08-2010, 12:40 PM   #21
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I've been running on it for (1) year as of next week. No probs at all... And looking back at it, yeah, this was about the most annoying problem I ever experienced with it!
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Old 10-08-2010, 12:47 PM   #22
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I've also gone on countless trips up to northern MI at 3 hours each way and back in June we made a trip around the upper penisula and down into Wisconsin then back. Few mud bogs in there, daily driver, travelling, you name it. Getting close to 200,000 miles I need to look to be sure.

Since this time last year, I've had to replace the Catalitic Convertor (I was loosing HP and it was pushing exhaust out from in front of the CAT) and I did the front/back brakes on it. Oh, and I can't forget the mudbog where I messed up my fuel line and had to get that fixed! It was leaking, I could smell it but could not find it. I had to be in it and rev the engine for it to spit gas out and someone else watched from underneith to see where the leak was.
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Old 10-08-2010, 07:05 PM   #23
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Wow I wish I would of seen this earlier ,you dont have to spend 250 for a new ecm they are so easy to fix ,cost is 6 bucks at radio shack.had allt the same issues ,changed out the 3 capacitors in the ecm.and all problems solved .there was evident damage to 2 caps. on the one the lead was dissconect and the other was leaking the gel out .
I would definitly try to fix your ecms before you spend a ton of cash for someone else to change a 2 dollar part.
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Old 10-08-2010, 11:54 PM   #24
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Call dealer, check for recall on fuel pump.

Any Jeep service department can run your VIN for recalls...

My 94 had an outstanding recall for it...

Kevin



Quote:
Originally Posted by Rray1 View Post
I've been having fuel pump problems for a couple months now. The pump initially won't turn over, so i wait with the ignition turned halfway, and depending on how cold/warm it is, the pump will eventually make a loud series of clicks before it activates and my check engine light comes on (indicating fuel is flowing once again).

Once the pump clicks over, she starts everytime, and for the most part runs well, except for when i'm approaching a stop, in which case the engine sputters a bit and seems to be short of fuel. On cold mornings it will take a couple minutes for the pump to turn over. I'm assuming the pump is just slowly going, but i'm not familiar with wrangler fuel systems. Could it be anything else? Fuel pressure regulator? Bad connection? I'd hate to order a pump and install it and figure out it's still not the issue. Thanks!
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Old 09-21-2012, 10:26 AM   #25
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Can you proivde a few lines of the capacitors you chnaged out? I'd like to try fixing it myself before buying a new/rerurbed one. Thanks.
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Old 09-24-2012, 08:29 AM   #26
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Going on three yrs running strong, fired up this morning and it was 30 here in MI.

I didn't change the capacitors, I had autocomputerexchange.net out of FL do it. The re-furb from them is awesome. They match your VIN and pre-program them. Even powder coated black on the case. Very good work from those guys.


send a PM to crtaylor, he might know the capacitors...
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Old 09-24-2012, 09:36 AM   #27
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Old 10-04-2012, 08:46 AM   #28
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Thanks for the post Tyewilly. I ended up going the AutoComputerExchange route recommedned by sevenservices as I'm not too electrially inclined nor did I have the tools listed. I ended up getting it shipped out for $199 (I saw that price quoted online so when I called I asked for that price and they gave it to me). Got the replacement yesterday and popped it in and it started right up. Turns out the ECU also controls the fuel pressure so what I thought was the check valve issue was actually related to the ECU issue. Back on the road today and hopeful that I will have the same results as sevenservices and still be going strong for years to come!
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:35 AM   #29
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Sweet!!! Glad to hear your rollin'

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