G2 dana 44 axle swap problems.. HELP !!!!!! - Jeep Wrangler Forum

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Old 09-02-2014, 07:32 PM
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Question G2 dana 44 axle swap problems.. HELP !!!!!!

So heres the mess.... 1990 yj, 4" RE springs ( spring under ) , More box mount ( moves steering box 1" forward ) G2 dana 44 ( uses oem dana 30 knuckles and brakes ) .. Soooo get it and set it up, put on tie rod out of vehicle. cant steer, tie rod up against diff cover with hubs straight. OK, goto rustys to get offset linkage set up. perfect, clears diff cover no prob. Now goto install in jeep, try to bolt on springs and springs pinch steering linkage, cant even bolt up. guess too far forward. , Next step, tie rod flip. got shims that you taper hole on top of knuckle and then shim goes in bottom to take out taper . ( shims too long and get pushed out by tie rod end when trying to install ? ) Sooo now mock up tie rod on top install drag link and everything is pretty much tight, so travel before contact will be limited. Tried to use straight tie rod ends to replace the offset ones, but the tie rod is too long and cant get wheels straight. No one seems to be able to help me address this. I just want to drive my jeep, this has been a project problem since the winter going back and fourth. Any body else install a G2 in their YJ ? have problems ?? or not,?? what did you use for steering linkage. for some reason the oem linkage still doesnt fit below the knuckles there is not enough clearance between the springs and knuckles ?????? Did I get a defective axle ??? I am past frustrated and ready to yank this thing and put the d 30 back in.. at least that worked... any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
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Old 09-02-2014, 07:38 PM
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also I eyeballed the clearances and I dont think even a spring over would work because the tie rod is right in line with top of axle where springs would live ? Ugh..

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Old 09-02-2014, 08:59 PM   #3
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can you post pics? It will help to see the whole situation..
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Old 09-03-2014, 10:16 AM   #4
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I read your post on the other forum and would like to hear more about your troubles. You said on that thread that you had to buy all new hardware, did the stock u-bolts not fit the G2? I was told they were the same size tubes? Not a big deal finding u-bolts and plate, but that's not "bolt in".
I have heard of the diff cover contact, but it seems to me doing a tre flip should have fixed that issue, there should have been no spring contact as your tie rod would be another 3 or so inches above the spring. The only problem I can see with a flip is if you have a drop pitman arm you would probably have to go to a original equipment size. Please give us some photos and explain where the contact or pinching occurred.
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Old 09-03-2014, 07:15 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEEPASAURUSREX View Post
also I eyeballed the clearances and I dont think even a spring over would work because the tie rod is right in line with top of axle where springs would live ? Ugh..

Are you doing a Spring under or a Spring over, I know it said under in first post, just some thing don't sound right.
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Old 09-03-2014, 07:27 PM   #6
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Are you doing a Spring under or a Spring over, I know it said under in first post, just some thing don't sound right.
That's what's confusing me, it seems flipping the tie rod would give him more clearance, yet he says it bound up against the spring which can happen with a SOA. I have a 4.5 inch lift and my TR is not near my springs, if I did a flip I would have a ton of room between TR and spring.
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Old 09-04-2014, 07:59 AM
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It's a spring under in oem configuration. but I have 4" RE springs and a 5/8" extended MORE shackle lift and shackle reversal kit installed. If I mount the tie rod oem under knuckle where it should be it hits the springs, it seems as if the knuckles are now closer to bottom of axle ??? The G2 axle uses a 3" tube, think the D30 was 2.5" ... but the one over the pumpkin is 4", so I had to have a custom 4" u bolt made and the spring plates had to be made, Dave's supplied a universal plate and then I had it machined to accept the 4" bolt on the one side, then I had to have the sway bar link pins welded onto the plates ugh.. thats all done... So now.... my problem is the steering ... I got a steeel cover and that enables me to run a straght tie rod instead of the off set one. but oem and any aftermarket has drag link in the wrong side of bar. I emailed everyone i could find and most said that thiers would not work. BUT, rocky road said he thought his would. The offset system was nice and beefy but the 3" offset cleared cover no problem but then all my linkage was on top of eachother, and I had like 1 1/2" of travel before it all came together ... by using straght tie rod , I do have to reduce my turning radius a bit more so it doesnt hit cover, but all the llinkage above will clear, and I already have the offset steering box mount form More installed and an OEM pitman arm..a full on hi steer kit will push linkage up too high and I will have clearance issues again. I will try to post some pics if I can figure out how. LOL.. Thanks
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Old 09-04-2014, 08:01 AM
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Also I called G2 and they said that production changed on the knuckles somewhere between 89 and 90. mine is a 90 but I got it in fall of 89 so I may have the earlier one ? I looked at newer knuckles. QuadraTec has been helping me quite a bit with this build and sent me pics of the new knuckles and they look like what I have ?? I am afraid to just buy them cause they are like $500 for the pair.
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Old 09-04-2014, 08:04 AM
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this is of the linkage from rustys
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Old 09-04-2014, 08:09 AM
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the first pic is of the shim I am having problems with, it seems to be too long and when putting the tie rod end in it pushes the sleeve out about 1/4". I was told to crank down on the nut to compress it, but wheres it going to compress too ? something isnt right with that ? think I may toss those shims and do the RUKSE ones ?

THe second pic is with the steel cover and mocked up with the oem linkage which will work, just need to find one desgned for Hi steer so the drag link is on the right side ( front of linkage ) or is has the hole in the tube so that it can be positioned on either side. the rugged ridge is part of RE as is Oem one and most that I have seen except the rocky road. any thoughts on those ? Thanks
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Old 09-04-2014, 08:10 AM
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that didnt work ? other pics are too big ? see if I can reduce them ?
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Old 09-04-2014, 10:58 AM   #12
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For a sleeve i'd go Goforit, they slip in from the top and you tack weld them in. For the drag link you can do the same thing you did with the knuckle, drill it out, tack in a sleeve, and move the drag link to the other side for your tie rod flip. Not a fan of Rusty's, but what problems did you have with it? The photo looks pretty good as far as diff clearance and pretty level drag link
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Old 09-04-2014, 05:51 PM
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So the rustys kit isnt working because of the travel, it's all too close. about 1 1/2 of travel.the drag link is almost on top of the tie rod and the pitman arm is above that, so they are really close to being in line with eachother so upward travel BAM ! by putting in the oem linkage I'm clear of upward travel just the whole drag link taper situation. I spoke to Rusty and he had me send him some pics, thinks maybe a flat pitman arm might clear this up. If not I was thinking of going to heim joints or blue tooth steering so I dont have to worry about the physical linkage.
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Old 09-04-2014, 06:03 PM   #14
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Would a flat or almost flat pitman arm( I think a waggy) give enough room for the rusty drag link? There isn't a lot of straight up travel most would be on one side or other as you articulate.
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Old 09-05-2014, 02:34 PM
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Flat won't work. Box is moved forward an inch so arm will need a bit of drop about an inch or inch and a half to clear sway bar
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:51 PM   #16
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I converted some Waggy 44's. I used all the Waggy steering linkage and hubs. I had a similar problem. I ended up putting my stock pitman arm back on and have not had a problem. It's close though. I don't run sway bars or track bars.

Did you say the axle had the D30 hubs and knuckles?
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Old 09-06-2014, 12:02 PM
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Yeah the g2 uses Dana 30 knuckles and brakes.

Can't use flat due to box being moved 1" forward. Need an arm in between flat and oem.
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Old 09-11-2014, 04:52 PM
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OK so after much research and discussions, G2's resolution is that its the shackle reversals fault that nothing is fitting right ? Found that I cannot use a flat pitman arm, must have approx 1.5" drop to clear sway bar. SOoooooo after playing with tried putting drag link rod end on the top of the pitman arm and wala.... solved clearance issues, ordered another one of those taper shims.. Also. as far as my shims being too long, I just held it with a channel lock and used a grinder to knock about 1/4" off and it worked, seems solid. took pitman arm off, never been off since 1990.. ugh that was fun, but its off now, will taper other side and insert shim once here and away I go.. I hope.. any thoughts on this ? Thanks
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Old 12-16-2016, 03:46 PM   #19
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Steering Interference 87 YJ G2 44/30 Front Axle

Jeeasaurusrex,

I'm going through exactly the same problems with my 87 YJ and G2 44/30 axles.

With stock steering and knuckles I had about 1/4" clearance to the front of the differential cover, would barely give any steering.

Did you actually get a satisfactory outcome to this issue. I'd be very interested to know how it worked out for you.

Rich
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Old 12-16-2016, 04:47 PM   #20
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Jeeasaurusrex,

I'm going through exactly the same problems with my 87 YJ and G2 44/30 axles.

With stock steering and knuckles I had about 1/4" clearance to the front of the differential cover, would barely give any steering.

Did you actually get a satisfactory outcome to this issue. I'd be very interested to know how it worked out for you.

Rich
Maybe get a stock dana 44 diff cover?
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Old 12-16-2016, 05:15 PM   #21
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I made the same mistake as the OP and bought this F'ing axle. I fixed the steering issue with a Tera Flex high steer passenger knuckle, doing the tie rod flip, and also using a Tera Flex offset tie rod end. I had to make my own tie rod with some DOM tubing and weld-in thread inserts. It's messy. Switching to a stock diff cover will help a little, but not enough.

I'm pretty sure the G2 crowd knows this axle sucks, but they don't want to admit it. I also had to have my driveshaft shortened by 1.25" to fit correctly. Other than my lift (5.5"), there is nothing crazy going on with my suspension. I have the later "longer" knuckles they claim you need to have, but my tie rod still hit the diff cover. At least when I was in Utah, they did give me a free T-shirt.
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Old 12-17-2016, 09:07 AM   #22
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9T4YJ

What year is your YJ and the Knuckles? Mine is an 87, are the knuckle steering arms actually longer on the stock 90 and later? Do you think they would give me more tie rod to diff clearance?

I've only got 2.5" of lift so I don't think I have any issues requiring high steering.
Thanks all who replied!
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Old 12-17-2016, 02:39 PM   #23
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I have a '94, all the information out there seems to say that the first few years of YJs had a different knuckle with a shorter arm. I've never physically confirmed it. High steer becomes necessary when you have a lot of suspension lift because the angles in the steering linkage start to get kind of weird and you will have driveability issues. The tierod flip is good for getting the tierod away from the springs if you have a high lift spring.

Getting later knuckles will help, but it's not a cure. My problem was that the tie rod would hit the cover well before the knuckles would hit the stops. The tires would get about 60-70% of the amount of arc they should be getting. Flipping the tie rod didn't really help much. It gave me maybe another 1/8 of an inch. With a stamped cover on, you pick up another 1/4 to 3/8 of clearance, and that got me about 70% of my wheel motion. The Tera Flex offset tie rods are nice and would help, but they are a larger diameter than the stock tie rod and won't work with the stock tie rod. And you can really only use one of them on the driver side. It's driveable at that point, but you are losing a lot of turning radius. I ended up making a new tie rod with the offset rod ends and high steer knuckle from Tera Flex. I had to replace the drag link as well. I used the Rugged Ridge HD, and had to extend it about 2.5 inches to reach the high steer knuckle.

Here's what I have for pictures:






Here's what my clearance looks like at close to full lock left.
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Old 12-18-2016, 04:58 PM   #24
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I guess those who were looking for a "bolt on" axle would be disappointed that the G2 does not live up to the hype. I have found very few true bolt on items for our YJ's since from jeep to jeep they seem to differ. I've had the G2 for awhile now and I'm very happy. It goes well with my super 8.8 in the rear.
I went with tie rod flip and Ruff Stuff tie rod and drag link kit with Chevy 1 ton ends. I have a ARB front cover which sticks out a bit but still doesn't rub. I'm running the RE Extreme lift and have run this setup for over a year without trouble.

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