So heres the mess.... 1990 yj, 4" RE springs ( spring under ) , More box mount ( moves steering box 1" forward ) G2 dana 44 ( uses oem dana 30 knuckles and brakes ) .. Soooo get it and set it up, put on tie rod out of vehicle. cant steer, tie rod up against diff cover with hubs straight. OK, goto rustys to get offset linkage set up. perfect, clears diff cover no prob. Now goto install in jeep, try to bolt on springs and springs pinch steering linkage, cant even bolt up. guess too far forward. , Next step, tie rod flip. got shims that you taper hole on top of knuckle and then shim goes in bottom to take out taper . ( shims too long and get pushed out by tie rod end when trying to install ? ) Sooo now mock up tie rod on top install drag link and everything is pretty much tight, so travel before contact will be limited. Tried to use straight tie rod ends to replace the offset ones, but the tie rod is too long and cant get wheels straight. No one seems to be able to help me address this. I just want to drive my jeep, this has been a project problem since the winter going back and fourth. Any body else install a G2 in their YJ ? have problems ?? or not,?? what did you use for steering linkage. for some reason the oem linkage still doesnt fit below the knuckles there is not enough clearance between the springs and knuckles ?????? Did I get a defective axle ??? I am past frustrated and ready to yank this thing and put the d 30 back in.. at least that worked... any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
I read your post on the other forum and would like to hear more about your troubles. You said on that thread that you had to buy all new hardware, did the stock u-bolts not fit the G2? I was told they were the same size tubes? Not a big deal finding u-bolts and plate, but that's not "bolt in".
I have heard of the diff cover contact, but it seems to me doing a tre flip should have fixed that issue, there should have been no spring contact as your tie rod would be another 3 or so inches above the spring. The only problem I can see with a flip is if you have a drop pitman arm you would probably have to go to a original equipment size. Please give us some photos and explain where the contact or pinching occurred.
Are you doing a Spring under or a Spring over, I know it said under in first post, just some thing don't sound right.
That's what's confusing me, it seems flipping the tie rod would give him more clearance, yet he says it bound up against the spring which can happen with a SOA. I have a 4.5 inch lift and my TR is not near my springs, if I did a flip I would have a ton of room between TR and spring.
It's a spring under in oem configuration. but I have 4" RE springs and a 5/8" extended MORE shackle lift and shackle reversal kit installed. If I mount the tie rod oem under knuckle where it should be it hits the springs, it seems as if the knuckles are now closer to bottom of axle ??? The G2 axle uses a 3" tube, think the D30 was 2.5" ... but the one over the pumpkin is 4", so I had to have a custom 4" u bolt made and the spring plates had to be made, Dave's supplied a universal plate and then I had it machined to accept the 4" bolt on the one side, then I had to have the sway bar link pins welded onto the plates ugh.. thats all done... So now.... my problem is the steering ... I got a steeel cover and that enables me to run a straght tie rod instead of the off set one. but oem and any aftermarket has drag link in the wrong side of bar. I emailed everyone i could find and most said that thiers would not work. BUT, rocky road said he thought his would. The offset system was nice and beefy but the 3" offset cleared cover no problem but then all my linkage was on top of eachother, and I had like 1 1/2" of travel before it all came together ... by using straght tie rod , I do have to reduce my turning radius a bit more so it doesnt hit cover, but all the llinkage above will clear, and I already have the offset steering box mount form More installed and an OEM pitman arm..a full on hi steer kit will push linkage up too high and I will have clearance issues again. I will try to post some pics if I can figure out how. LOL.. Thanks
Also I called G2 and they said that production changed on the knuckles somewhere between 89 and 90. mine is a 90 but I got it in fall of 89 so I may have the earlier one ? I looked at newer knuckles. QuadraTec has been helping me quite a bit with this build and sent me pics of the new knuckles and they look like what I have ?? I am afraid to just buy them cause they are like $500 for the pair.
the first pic is of the shim I am having problems with, it seems to be too long and when putting the tie rod end in it pushes the sleeve out about 1/4". I was told to crank down on the nut to compress it, but wheres it going to compress too ? something isnt right with that ? think I may toss those shims and do the RUKSE ones ?
THe second pic is with the steel cover and mocked up with the oem linkage which will work, just need to find one desgned for Hi steer so the drag link is on the right side ( front of linkage ) or is has the hole in the tube so that it can be positioned on either side. the rugged ridge is part of RE as is Oem one and most that I have seen except the rocky road. any thoughts on those ? Thanks
For a sleeve i'd go Goforit, they slip in from the top and you tack weld them in. For the drag link you can do the same thing you did with the knuckle, drill it out, tack in a sleeve, and move the drag link to the other side for your tie rod flip. Not a fan of Rusty's, but what problems did you have with it? The photo looks pretty good as far as diff clearance and pretty level drag link
So the rustys kit isnt working because of the travel, it's all too close. about 1 1/2 of travel.the drag link is almost on top of the tie rod and the pitman arm is above that, so they are really close to being in line with eachother so upward travel BAM ! by putting in the oem linkage I'm clear of upward travel just the whole drag link taper situation. I spoke to Rusty and he had me send him some pics, thinks maybe a flat pitman arm might clear this up. If not I was thinking of going to heim joints or blue tooth steering so I dont have to worry about the physical linkage.
I converted some Waggy 44's. I used all the Waggy steering linkage and hubs. I had a similar problem. I ended up putting my stock pitman arm back on and have not had a problem. It's close though. I don't run sway bars or track bars.
Did you say the axle had the D30 hubs and knuckles?
OK so after much research and discussions, G2's resolution is that its the shackle reversals fault that nothing is fitting right ? Found that I cannot use a flat pitman arm, must have approx 1.5" drop to clear sway bar. SOoooooo after playing with tried putting drag link rod end on the top of the pitman arm and wala.... solved clearance issues, ordered another one of those taper shims.. Also. as far as my shims being too long, I just held it with a channel lock and used a grinder to knock about 1/4" off and it worked, seems solid. took pitman arm off, never been off since 1990.. ugh that was fun, but its off now, will taper other side and insert shim once here and away I go.. I hope.. any thoughts on this ? Thanks