Well I just got 33's put on my YJ it look so bad ass.....BUT I can only do about 60. My jeep is daily drivien I don't rock crawl either " NO WHERE TO GO" The only thing my jeep see's is mostly highway, a little mud and the beach. From what I've read I need either 4.10s or 4.56 gears. I have the ax/15 and the I6 the jeep is a 1993. Which gear set would be better for my application I wan't it to be geared to drive as close to stock as possible.
Well, the question still remains: What gears do you have right now?
I know there is a formula out there that you can use to get the same kind of drivability before the change in tire size. So what size tires did you have before, and were you satisfied with the acceleration and "top speed".
From what you said about you don't rock crawl and you see mostly highway you probably want to keep the gears in the lower range for your 33's. As they will keep your rpm's lower thus saving some gas. Saying this I have 33's the I6 and a NV3550(close to same overdrive gear) and 3.73 in the axles. Highway driving is ok for the most part but I have close to no acceleration at 65 and I have to down shift at most of the inclines. I feel like 4.10's would do my highway driving perfect but, I do rock crawl, my license plate is RKCWLR, so I better crawl. I am planning for 4.56's though, I also have plans for 35's in the future which will fit the 4.56 well.
well considering this is a YJ thread and he has an ax15 in a 93, the only gears he could have from the factory are 3.08's. Screw the formula, 4.56's are the way to go ....speaking from experience
Then why the question of his starting gear ratio? There's only one choice in 1993 with a 6 cylinder. I wasn't thinking correctly when I said it was lower, its a bit higher than stock, but its not gonna make that much difference in mileage...mine still got 14 mpg. Stock rpm with stock tires at 70 is 2457....33's and 4.56's is 2535
Well I am not familiar with YJ stock gearing options. And that question was still a good one. if he liked the feel he got with 3.09's and 29's, 4.10's and 33's would be closer to stock than 4.56?
Just so you know I agree with you that 4.56 would be a better ratio if he may plan to go bigger some day. It's one of those things you should try to do only once. Because of the big price tag.
93 YJ 6cyl ax-15 33's with 4.56 gears here. Great setup. About 2400 rpm at 70mph. They sell good quality gear kits for front and rear fairly cheap. 4.56 is the way to go.
That was my next question I'm a newb Jeeper What parts do I need for the regearing, obviously two ring and pinion sets but is there any other hard parts?
Also should I upgrade my rear axle as I hear they break with bigger tires. I've been looking at the alloy usa rear axle kit is this good enough for 33-35" tires or do I need to get a whole new axle. I see a ford explorer at a near buy junk yard???????????
Use the Superior Axel 30 spline Super 35. Will hold up to 35" tires just fine doing serious wheeling. If extreme wheeling is your thing upgrade to an 8.8 or D44.
Same topic not sure if its already been answered but I have a 2005 TJ 2.4L with a 4" lift on 31" I eventually want to run 35" but it has everything else stock such as dana 30 and dana 35 rear end 3:73 gears (honestly i have no clue what that means) tryin to learn about the whole mod thing but i spoke with some one and said I need 4:88 gears i had a frend who had a 97 2.4 wit 4:88 on 36" but he was a hard core rock crawler "im not" but want it to run decent and if i want to take it off road then want it to do good. And if i go with 4:56 or 4:88 what does the whole locker rear end thing mean is that the whole thing with rear gearing or would I have to buy something seperate to "lock" the rear end's
I am not lucky enough to live in a place where they give away 8.8 axels. The cheapest I have found is $275. You could just put that axel with 4.10's in and call it good. That is by far the cheapest way to go. If you only want to regear and no locker it is still cheaper than a S35. If you plan on replacing all bearings, seals, carriers, gears and adding a locker the final cost is very close depending on where you have it done and it is less work. A lot of people are lucky and find 8.8 and D44 for next to nothing. I am not that lucky.
275's not bad if its complete with limited slip. Even with a regear and locker its still very close in price to a super 35. If I were doing it, I would use the 8.8 and not look back....or, step up to its daddy...the 10.25
Another question what is the difference betwqeen all the locker types. I'm not spending 700-1000 dollars so both my rear wheels will spin.I've noticed some are only around 300 bucks
with 4.10's you will never find 5th gear on the highway
Lockers come in all different styles, alot of people go for the cheaper ones on here. The real main difference is how they work and how hard they hold.
im gonna have to disagree with u there 4:10 the way to go theres no negatives to it i have 33s with a ford 8.8 and 4:10 and my babys a beast
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