I have a 93 YJ 4.0 5spd that I picked up last summer and I'm wanting to start ordering some parts to start phase 1 of my build and was hoping someone more experienced could go through what I'm planning on doing. I work out of town so when I'm home I try to use my jeep as a daily and stay offroad as much as possible. I'm mainly looking for offroad performance but still need the ability to hit the interstate. The jeep currently is lifted(unknown) and sitting on 33x12.50s with absolutely no flex. It has tall shackles and isn't stable at all over 55mph.
To start with I'm wanting to order:
Rubicon Express 4.5" extreme duty lift
35" Mickey Thompson Baja MTZP3
Pro Comp series 51 15x8, 3.75 BS
I'm also going to build front and rear bumpers
I would like to keep from going to a SYE if possible until I can get the 8.8 I picked up out of a 99 explorer rebuilt. I will have to regear and am debating between 4.56 or 4.88. Should I go with a posi or LTD slip when I rebuild this to put it in?
Phase 2 will consist of:
8.8- regear, posi or selectable locker, clip eliminator
Regear D30 and possibly selectable locker
SYE and driveshaft if I haven't done it already
Metalcloak fenders (WV has a flare law so I will probably need at least 6" fenders)
Any comments on my plan would be appreciated. I'm not much of a mechanic and I keep feeling like I'm jumping in head first on this. I will have the axle work done but as far as the lift and installing everything I plan on doing it myself. I trying to learn about the drivetrain side so any help on the gearing or locker selection would be nice.
I have never been a fan of tall shackles. I would eliminate those right away. Add tall bumpstops to eliminate tire rub. Tall bump stops will likely remove some flex. Does it currently have a drop pitman arm? Have you checked the Unit Bearings? Ball Joints? Does it have the front or rear track bars?
A little surprised it does not have an SYE already. It's going to be cheaper to change out everything at one time. Do the lift spring change out, SYE and rear axle swap at the same time. You could do the rear axle later which would mean buying the rear driveline twice. When you do buy the rear driveline wait until everything is installed. The driveline measurement should not be a guess. Go for the Super Shorty SYE. This will add an extra inch or two to the driveline. Wait until all mods are completed before buying 35's. Also recommend driving on the old 33's for a month. Lift springs tend to settle. I always recommend custom lift springs over store bought. Custom springs cost more and usually last longer and sag less.
Best gear ratio is like asking Jeep vs Toyota. Lots of emotion. I recommend 4.56. This helps the front axle ring and pinion maintain strong tooth contact. Do look into the front YJ axle shaft upgrade to TJ shafts. Most YJ's shipped with small axle shaft Ujoints.
I'm not sure an 8.8 C Clip eliminator is necessary. Is this mostly street driven? In my opinion, avoid (mini)spool. I'm running a Detroit in my 8.8. Very simple and reliable. The Detroit is horrible on black ice. My front is an ARB locker. I rarely use the front locker. Glad it's there when I need it.
The tall shackles are the main reason for wanting to swap the lift. I'm not sure about the drop pitman arm but I'm pretty sure it does. I replaced the driver side ball joints last time I was home. I haven't check unit bearings(not sure how). Both track bars are still installed.
There isn't a SYE but it does have a transfer case drop. I was hoping to be able to go ahead and jump on the 35s and if I grenade the d35 I'll just hurry up the 8.8. I'm usually short on time when I get to go home. I'm usually out of town 9-10 months out of the year and it's usually a week here, 2 weeks there when I'm home and get to work on things. I was hoping to swap the lift and use the stock axles then right before I leave again pull both and have them built while I'm gone.
I'm leaning towards the 4.56 but I'm always open to opinions. I'll look into the tj shafts for the d30.
It is mainly going to be used offroad but it is driven on the street to get there. I'm lucky to have a lot of trails all around me. Black ice during the winter is a big concern since I live in the mountains in WV so it sounds like the Detroit is a no go. I don't want anything I can't turn my wife loose in during the winter if she needs to drive it.
If you haven't done it already, get a factory service manual. One source is Bishko .
I just noticed they also have the parts manual available on CD as well.
With those two assets, you can fix any problem that comes up.
It was a mess when I bought it. The PO had "started" a rebuild and didn't make it very far. I finally got it running right and got the front 4wd working(didn't realize it didn't have it till it put me in a bind). I'm still trying to figure out what I have.
I'd recommend doing the 8.8 swap, gears (4.56), lift, and sye at the same time, and sticking with the 33's for now.
This will fix your bad highway ride, get you in the proper gearing, keep you from having to get two different rear driveshafts, and get all the running gear DONE-ZO.
Then throw the 35's and Metalcloaks on for phase 2.
Planning on not doing the sye with a 4.5" lift is iffy. Some jeeps do fine with a tcase drop, some jeeps get bad vibes that eat ujoints and stress driveline components.
The 4.56's are as low as I'd go with the d30 front end. Beyond that, the pinion gear gets pretty small and tooth engagement is minimal. I'm running 4.56's with 33's now, 2500rpm get's me 65mph with plenty room to run up to 75mph for passing. You'd get slightly higher mph at these revs with the 35's.
As for the track bars and sway bar, try taking them out once the lift is installed and drive around for a little bit, see what you think. I wound up tossing mine. The suspension flexes much better and I have zero issues on the road or highway.
So looks like 4.56 gears. Any recommendations on brands?
I don't care to go ahead with the SYE and 8.8 swap as long as I have time to do it all. What SYE and 8.8 swap kit should I go with? I need to do more research on this. I have a driveshaft shop at home that can do everything for me but I want to do it myself if possible.
I'll pull the trac bars and sway bar after everything and try it. It's doesn't handle near good enough to try it yet.
The Ruff Stuff 8.8 kit is pretty bada$$. Big perches, thick steel, big u-bolts.
I think most of the SYE's are very similar. I just installed the Teraflex Extreme Short Shaft kit. It was between that and the JB super short kit and the T-Flex was cheaper. The install is pretty straight forward.
As for gear brand, I have Motive gears in my 8.8. Only about 8K miles on them and zero experience with any other aftermarket brand so IDK. You'll probably be good with a brand you've heard of before: Motive, Alloy USA, Yukon, etc.
I was under the impression that the 8.8 wasn't just a simple bolt on thing, thought this involved lots of welding new perches and so on. Or am I looking at that link wrong roger
The kit I linked to includes new perches and shock mounts that need to be welded onto the clean axle tubes. So yes, you would cut off the factory perches and mounts, mock up placement of the new parts and weld them up.
I took apart the grenaded TC, a stock Jeep TC and a Chevy S10 TC. Used parts of all three. The Chevy internals are equal to what Jeep calls HD. Jeep HD transfer cases are crazy expensive. Chevy S10 TC usually have very little to zero time in 4wd. The Chevy chain and gears are wider. Chevy planetary is stronger.
Sometimes it's possible to use the existing spring perches. Not really recommended. It's better to cut off Ford stock perches, then place new perches at the correct location with correct angle for the axle. It's been awhile since I did mine. I recall pointing the 8.8 directly at the transfer case, then slightly lowering the angle. In theory, when I applied power the rear axle would move into alignment. I'm also SOA. Axle wrap is bigger problem.
I used MORE, Mountain Offroad for all of my 8.8 conversion needs. The previous owner was the creator of the Ford Explorer to Jeep 8.8 conversion. I have no idea about current pricing or who would best suit your needs for the conversion.
Not required. It is handy. Nice to have the extra length to minimize driveline vibes.
I started with the Currie SYE. Eventually I grenaded the transfer case. Not sure what actually caused it. I took apart the grenaded TC, a stock Jeep TC and a Chevy S10 TC. Used parts of all three. The Chevy internals are equal to what Jeep calls HD. Jeep HD transfer cases are crazy expensive. Chevy S10 TC usually have very little to zero time in 4wd. The Chevy chain and gears are wider. Chevy planetary is stronger. I also converted to Super Short SYE during the rebuild.
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