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Old 03-03-2011, 07:46 AM   #1
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Got a new Jeep, Questions on the engine setup

Alright So I just bought an 89 Wrangler that runs fairly well with a bad clutch so I'm replacing that. While I'm waiting for parts I decided I would go online and look into the Jeep I just bought a bit. I got hooked on a few engine upgrades that were out there mainly the nutter bypass, and the TFI/ TeamRush upgrades. I also plan on throwing in a MC2100 carb too while im at it, or at least a rebuild kit. Anyways so I finally had time to look into the nutter bypass & TFI upgrade only to find that I had a few strange things going on with my engine. The owner before me seemed to have already completed both of these upgrades in some way, but he left a lot of loose ends (literally) there are wires hanging all over the place in this thing that go to absolutely nothing. Very messy once you dig into it. SO Here are some pics I took and I wanted to see what all the pros know about what I got going on in my Wrangler.

First up is the distributor setup. After a little research I'm fairly sure it the HEI upgrade hes got on here. My only question is whats the advantage/disadvantage with having the coil in the cap? Also the plug wires hes got on here are terrible so any plug wire recommendations? I'm also going to throw in some new plugs but which ones would I need with the HEI?



-The first one is a front top pic of the distributor hes got on it.
Imageshack - img0604e.jpg


-Now the internals of the distributor.
Imageshack - img0612oq.jpg


The next part is the wiring. I'm pretty sure he did the nutter bypass but the end that plugs into the distributor on the orange and purple wire pair was just laying in the engine compartment not connected to anything. The other end that is supposed to go down by the ignition module was just hanging there not connected to anything either. So the purple and orange twisted pair bypass wire is connected to absolutely nothing. That doesn't sound right to me unless the HEI has no need for the nutter bypass? And what exactly does the nutter bypass do?


-Orange and purple wire pair and plug that is supposed to be connected to the distributor. (sorry for the blur)

Imageshack - img0619ew.jpg

Then the ignition module.

Imageshack - img0618hp.jpg


The final question I had was what carburetor is this, stock Carter?

Imageshack - img0614xq.jpg
Imageshack - img0608cf.jpg
Imageshack - img0609be.jpg

Anyways just thought I'd come to the people who know a thing or two about Jeeps. So fire away and let me know what I got so I can figure out how/what to work on it.

Thanks

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Old 03-03-2011, 08:58 AM   #2
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First, I have only had my 89 since September, but just recently installed the MC2100 carb and that's what you have. Nutter bypass - yours isn't done right. I saw a post on here early that showed me the err of my ways so in my disgust I ran new wires directly from the distributer to the ECM. When I first did it mine would't start. Found out there there is another orange wire that goes thru the fire wall. You have some vac lines that don't follow the instructions with mine. Don't know what to say on that one.

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Old 03-03-2011, 09:48 AM   #3
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First, I have only had my 89 since September, but just recently installed the MC2100 carb and that's what you have.
So I for sure have the MC2100 on there then?! That would be sweet because I dont have to mess around with getting a different carb. But again it blows because I dont get to tinker around on the jeep. O well if thats the case I can find something else to mess around with.

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Originally Posted by gfarris View Post
Nutter bypass - yours isn't done right. I saw a post on here early that showed me the err of my ways so in my disgust I ran new wires directly from the distributer to the ECM. When I first did it mine would't start. Found out there there is another orange wire that goes thru the fire wall. You have some vac lines that don't follow the instructions with mine. Don't know what to say on that one.
I read that if the HEI is done to it the nutter is already done because the HEI bypasses the ignition module all together?

Also does anyone have suggestions on what plugs & wires to use with the HEI?

Thanks
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Old 03-03-2011, 10:24 AM   #4
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Correct the prurpose of a nutter bypass is to bypass the ECM when putting in a different carb,
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Old 03-03-2011, 10:32 AM   #5
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What kind of HEI need pics and accidentally pressed send before I was complete on my post above!
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Old 03-03-2011, 10:53 AM   #6
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The nutter bypass is done to bypass the ECM when replacing the carb with a different kind, the wires that you splice into on the ignition module(pos underneath coolant resevoir bottle) those wires intially go to the ECM and get tweaked like the timing or firing of sparkplugs by the ECM according to its sensors to make the emission of exhaust less toxic for the baby seals and puppies in the world. The wires then travel out of the ECM to the distributor and makes the ditributor run in a manner that makes it cleaner for the enviroment then there ya go no more dead baby seals (which in turn means no more nice water proof boots or really any nice coats). Anyways to get the performance you want and possibly more mpgs you say screw you baby seals and puppies and even you too kittens of the world and bypass the ecm part that controls your distributor by connecting the orange and purple wire together from the distributor straight to the ignition module no more of that meddling evil ECM. It helped my jeep get more power and better response.
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Old 03-03-2011, 10:57 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billytheyj
The nutter bypass is done to bypass the ECM when replacing the carb with a different kind, the wires that you splice into on the ignition module(pos underneath coolant resevoir bottle) those wires intially go to the ECM and get tweaked like the timing or firing of sparkplugs by the ECM according to its sensors to make the emission of exhaust less toxic for the baby seals and puppies in the world. The wires then travel out of the ECM to the distributor and makes the ditributor run in a manner that makes it cleaner for the enviroment then there ya go no more dead baby seals (which in turn means no more nice water proof boots or really any nice coats). Anyways to get the performance you want and possibly more mpgs you say screw you baby seals and puppies and even you too kittens of the world and bypass the ecm part that controls your distributor by connecting the orange and purple wire together from the distributor straight to the ignition module no more of that meddling evil ECM. It helped my jeep get more power and better response.
Now the HEI upgrade from what I know is "self contained" meaning it doesn't need the ignition module so bye bye that which in turn says bye bye to the ECM (emissions control module) and just tries to run at top performance with your carb cuz it says yes to nuking whales ahahaahha I will do that upgrade when I have the money!
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Old 03-03-2011, 10:59 AM   #8
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There ya go I was wondering when the full post would get on here.. So let me get this strait. I've been digging and the HEI upgrade eliminates the need for the nutter alltogether? Because the power to the distributor/coil on the HEI basically comes straight off the battery. Is that right?
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Old 03-03-2011, 11:00 AM   #9
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There ya go I was wondering when the full post would get on here.. So let me get this strait. I've been digging and the HEI upgrade eliminates the need for the nutter alltogether? Because the power to the distributor/coil on the HEI basically comes straight off the battery. Is that right?

....Nevermind. You answered my question for me while I was typing this up

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Old 03-03-2011, 11:04 AM   #10
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Yeah the system is self contained enough where it only needs juice from the battery to run and it also connects to the tach I believe. I know some provide a "hotter spark" so you can open up your spark plug gaps from a .030-.035 to a gap of .050-.055. That's what I will do one of these days...... I could be wrong on the sparkplug gaps though I can't remember.
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Old 03-05-2011, 11:17 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by billytheyj
Yeah the system is self contained enough where it only needs juice from the battery to run and it also connects to the tach I believe. I know some provide a "hotter spark" so you can open up your spark plug gaps from a .030-.035 to a gap of .050-.055. That's what I will do one of these days...... I could be wrong on the sparkplug gaps though I can't remember.
A guy on another thread titled Distributor has a lot of info on the hei I asked about the spark plug gaps and he says yes to opening up the gaps to .050
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Old 03-06-2011, 08:33 AM   #12
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You are correct on opening the gap. One thing to correct is the power to the dist. It needs to be connected to the full 12v accesory lead, connecting directly to the battery will supply voltage to the cap when the key is turned off.

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