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Old 10-28-2013, 09:40 PM   #1
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Hard start no start

OK looking for some thoughts before I dig into this...the other morning I went to start my 95 4.0L and it cranked a while before it caught. Started just fine throughout the day after that. Did this a few days. Now it won't start at all when it sits for a while. At first I thought it just needed a tune up but it runs fine when running. Definitely seems to be no fuel because I hit it with a shot of starting fluid and it fired right and ran fine. It seems if I cycle the ignition it will start. The fuel filter looks like crap and is rusted. My hope is just a bad fuel filter but could the fact that cycling the key seems to build the fuel pressure enough to start mean the fuel pump is bad?

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Old 10-29-2013, 10:09 AM   #2
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I would say you are on the right track. It could be the fuel filter. I would first check fuel pressure at the rail, should be around #31. If not change the fuel filter and check pressure again. See if there is a difference. I also foresee a new fuel pump in your future, but I would go with the filter first and see how things turn out.

As an after thought, have you ran any fuel treatment through your engine? Might help and can't hurt.

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Old 10-29-2013, 09:01 PM   #3
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Thanks. I'll throw a fuel filter in it and see how things go. Is doing the fuel pump difficult on a yj? Any tips?
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Old 10-29-2013, 09:04 PM   #4
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Oh yeh one more thing... If the pressure is low could that be from a fuel leak or bad fuel line? In hind sight I did smell fuel at the rear of the jeep before it wouldn't start but is didn't see any leaks around the fuel filter or anywhere visible.
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Old 10-30-2013, 11:32 AM   #5
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You will have to drop the tank to replace the fuel pump. Go ahead and get a complete new fuel sending unit with the new pump already installed. While the tank is down you can inspect and replace any fuel lines that are suspect. If they have never been replaced, I would bet you will find some that are cracked and dry rotted. Keep us posted.
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Old 10-31-2013, 09:05 PM   #6
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Sounds like a plan. Been workin like 70 hrs a week so not sure when I'm gonna have time but will let you know
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Old 11-10-2013, 05:42 PM   #7
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So I finally got sound to changing the fuel filter. Before I did I verified I have NO fuel pressure when it sits. Pressed the valve on the fuel rail to bleed off pressure and didn't even get a drip of fuel. If I cycle the ignition a few times its starts up perfect and runs fine.

Could the loss of pressure be from leaking fuel lines or is it definitely something with the fuel pump?
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Old 11-10-2013, 05:46 PM   #8
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fuel pressure regulator
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Old 11-10-2013, 06:22 PM   #9
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That's on the fuel pump on a jeep right?
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Old 11-10-2013, 06:29 PM   #10
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yes..it's easy to change,once you get the tank dropped
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Old 11-10-2013, 08:43 PM   #11
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I have a 2.5 but a lot the same situation mostly in the mornings or after it sits for several hours. Thanks for the thread. I'm gonna investigate
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Old 11-10-2013, 09:11 PM   #12
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That's my exact issue, mornings or after it sits a while. I just cycle the ignition a few times n it fires right up. I'll be changing the fuel pressure regulator as harleydragon said. I'm not sure if it's separate or part of the fuel pump but I'm gonna change that all out while the tank is down. I don't want to have to deal with it later.
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Old 11-11-2013, 06:29 AM   #13
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you can change the fuel pressure regulator without changing the pump if you want to
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Old 11-11-2013, 12:08 PM   #14
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Thanks harleydragon. I thought I heard somewhere it was. If I drop the tank I'm gonna change everything I don't want to have to drop it again.
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Old 11-11-2013, 12:31 PM   #15
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I hear ya,that's your call....yw
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Old 11-11-2013, 12:42 PM   #16
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Call me old fashioned but isn't the fp regulator on the fuel rail in the engine bay?
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Old 11-11-2013, 01:34 PM   #17
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there is a port on the fuel rail that you can test the fuel pressure but as far as I know,all the regulators are on top of the tank,plugged into the fuel pump
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Old 11-21-2013, 10:55 AM   #18
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Hey guys...getting around to Fixing my hard start issue. Before i start buying parts I noticed now that when turning the ignition on I sometimes
Don't hear the fuel pump kick on. I can turn the ignition on and off and will hear nothing and it won't start. As soon as I hear the pump kick on its starts. Is my issue possible the fuel pump not the fuel pressure regulator?
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Old 11-21-2013, 12:52 PM   #19
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Sounds like a fuel pump now. When you turn the key on.. (if it's working correctly) it should only run for a couple of seconds then quit. when you crank the engine, the crank sensor allows it to run again. if you aren't hearing it... bad pump.

Just my thoughts.
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Old 11-21-2013, 01:35 PM   #20
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Same exact issue on my 2.5 I posted some one said to check this out so I'm going to try it later today and I'll let you know

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/c...rs-ecu-492597/
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Old 11-21-2013, 01:55 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blak0ut316 View Post
Same exact issue on my 2.5 I posted some one said to check this out so I'm going to try it later today and I'll let you know

Crash Course In Brain Surgery Replacing Capacitors On ECU - JeepForum.com
When you do this... please post up what size capacitors yours takes.

Thanks.
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Old 11-23-2013, 07:38 AM   #22
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When you do this... please post up what size capacitors yours takes. Thanks.

All done and it worked...I think started up today without a hitch and it's like 35 degrees out...tomorrow will be the real test...it's really simple if you just follow the directions on the write up its really on point...I used 220 if 35vwdc there's two different kinds...one with terminals on each side and one with two terminals on one side and a plus sign on the other when you do it just make sure you face the black stripe to the tower on all three of the capacitors part number is 272-1029 I believe also a second set of hands help a lot but it can be done with one
Good luck
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Old 11-23-2013, 09:48 AM   #23
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Is that just an issue on the 2.5L? I don't wanna be changing out a fuel pump if that's not the issue.
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Old 11-23-2013, 11:35 AM   #24
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Is that just an issue on the 2.5L? I don't wanna be changing out a fuel pump if that's not the issue.
I'm not really sure. I have a 4.2 with mechanical pump. It may apply to the 4.0 with electric pump.

All electrolytic capacitors are subject to drying out. So this issue applies to almost all electronics. I don't know if the ECU is the same so that write up may not apply exactly but the basic concept should apply.
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Old 11-23-2013, 06:19 PM   #25
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I verified this is exactly what's going on with my 4.0L. Turn the key on pump doesn't prime, let it sit a few minutes and check engine light comes on and pump primes and it's starts right up. Guess it's not a fuel pump after all. Thanks for posting saved me the money and effort of changing the fuel pump. Not sure I'm gonna attempt the ECU repair or just by a reman. Any one know a good place to get a reman an what they cost?
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Old 11-23-2013, 08:18 PM   #26
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I happen to live in ct an would be happy to do the soldering. It's really simple and caps are cheap. You are probably looking at less than $5 at radio shack. Pm me if your interested. I'm in Vegas right now but I fly home tomorrow.
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Old 11-23-2013, 09:44 PM   #27
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Get the parts at radio shack and take it to a TV repair shop and pay the man for 15 minutes work. They will do a good job. Just Oreo everything some get out for $10.
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Old 11-23-2013, 10:36 PM   #28
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I verified this is exactly what's going on with my 4.0L. Turn the key on pump doesn't prime, let it sit a few minutes and check engine light comes on and pump primes and it's starts right up. Guess it's not a fuel pump after all. Thanks for posting saved me the money and effort of changing the fuel pump. Not sure I'm gonna attempt the ECU repair or just by a reman. Any one know a good place to get a reman an what they cost?
Reman isn't worth it unless you absolutely need one they are expensive too
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Old 11-24-2013, 09:41 PM   #29
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OK so I think I'm gonna try and tackle fixing the ECU myself but I have a few questions. 1.) what/how do you dig out the capacitors? 2.) does it matter what kind of silicone sealant you use to close up the holes? Could any particular sealants cause issues with the ECU electronics functioning? 3.) not sure if anyone knows but is it the same capacitors for a 4.0L? 4.) not sure what is meant by "side with the stripe is facing the big metal tower "

Thanks Fabrokoner for the offer to help. Much appreciated. I think I can handle it just a little scary to start messing with something like that but I guess if I screw it up I'm stuck getting another ECU anyway so what's the difference, right.
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Old 12-19-2013, 06:30 PM   #30
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Hey guys just wanted to chime in here i did this brain surgery this week on my 95 4.0 would start hard intermittently. sometimes turning key multiple times or leaving on the fuel pump would finally come on and jeep would start. I pulled ecu upon inspection of the caps two were slightly bulged, i bought 3 220uf 35 vdc caps at radio shack under 5 bucks soldered in sealed with silicone. and now jeep starts great everytime. easy to do if you have a soldering iron with a small tip i heated up caps as i pulled out with needlenose pliers had to work it back and forth as i only heated one side at a time. i tried desoldering them but the amount was so small the squeeze bulb had a hard time getting to it plus i didnt remove a bunch of the stock waterproofing. I say Go for it easy fix and cheap money.

as for the stripe you will see which way the stock ones face and the new ones have nice stripe on them just put in the same way the old ones came out and the all face the same way towards the "tower" heatsink looking thing sticking up out of the ecu

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