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Old 03-26-2011, 08:38 PM   #1
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Hard to shift into first gear

Hard to shift into first gear from a stand still. No grinding noise except shifting into reverse, just hard to get into gear. Thought it was the master/slave cylinder. Replaced both today and still have the same problem. 1994 YJ. When jeep is not running all gears shift with no problem. What Next ?

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Old 03-26-2011, 08:45 PM   #2
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Having same problem i usually have to put it in reverse back up a bit and then i am able to put it in first... Im going to keep and Eye on this thread..

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Old 03-26-2011, 08:46 PM   #3
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Drain trans and replace fluids. Substitute one quart of pennzoil synchromesh when refilling. Drive through all gears and circulate fluid. Should fix the problem.
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Old 03-26-2011, 08:57 PM   #4
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Drain trans and replace fluids. Substitute one quart of pennzoil synchromesh when refilling. Drive through all gears and circulate fluid. Should fix the problem.
Will do this Tomorrow where can i get Pennzoil Synchromesh any parts store? and is it a specific weight? 80w-90 75w-90?
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Old 03-26-2011, 09:02 PM   #5
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Synchromesh is synchromesh. There is only one type. Comes in a yellow bottle. Usually any parts store has it in stock.
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Old 03-26-2011, 09:06 PM   #6
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I just changed the fluids a week ago. Running 80/90 in there. Do I need to drain all the fluids or can I just add the Synchromesh.
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Old 03-26-2011, 09:09 PM   #7
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Im sure you could drain a quart and replace with synchromesh till it spills out the fill valve
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Old 03-26-2011, 09:44 PM   #8
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Appreciate it. I will try it out.
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Old 03-26-2011, 09:47 PM   #9
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Thanks for your help
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Old 03-26-2011, 09:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D3uc3s
Synchromesh is synchromesh. There is only one type. Comes in a yellow bottle. Usually any parts store has it in stock.
Have you tried royal purple synchromesh? Just curious.... cuz I just changed my transmission fluids to royal purple synchromesh. A little exspensive to do all 4 quarts.
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Old 03-26-2011, 09:59 PM   #11
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Have you tried royal purple synchromesh?
No bc its way more expensive. Pennzoil works perfect. RP is quality stuff for sure!
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Old 03-26-2011, 10:01 PM   #12
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That's what I thought. it was exspensive at 14.99 a quart.
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Old 03-26-2011, 10:06 PM   #13
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That's what I thought. it was exspensive at 14.99 a quart.
Yea and for as long as i have been servicing my manual transmissions i have always just substituted one quart. Its really all the synchros need. Never fails to stop grinds and crappy shifting.

In auto transmissions i always substitute one quart of lucas stop slip. Lucas oil is great stuff as well. But also $$$
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4" RC lift w/2" BL, 32x11.50 Wild Peaks, posi-lock, SYE, custom driveshaft, RC steering stabilizer, SS brake lines, quik discos, custom f&r bumpers, warn 6" fogs, blah blah blah...
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Old 03-26-2011, 10:08 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by D3uc3s

Yea and for as long as i have been servicing my manual transmissions i have always just substituted one quart. Its really all the synchros need. Never fails to stop grinds and crappy shifting.

In auto transmissions i always substitute one quart of lucas stop slip. Lucas oil is great stuff as well. But also $$$
That's exactly y I did it all gears were grinding, so I replaced qll quarts with it and nothing but smooth shifting now!!
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Old 03-27-2011, 02:41 AM   #15
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On the manual AX15 i have 10w40 synthetic.
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Old 03-28-2011, 09:14 AM   #16
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My 90 AX15 with 82,000 miles started gradually not going into first gear and would bite a little going into second recently after I had the dealer change the tranny fluid with the normal recommended gear oil. It got really bad. I changed it out to synthetic 10/30 after reading about this and my tranny is back to normal shifting like butter. That was my experience.
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Old 03-28-2011, 01:39 PM   #17
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how difficult are these manual transmissions to change the fluid?
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Old 03-28-2011, 01:54 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbfunTH
how difficult are these manual transmissions to change the fluid?
Not.. I don't remeber the exact size socket/wrench you need to use but its big. The drain hole is on bottom passenger side of transmission and the fill hole is half way up the side on the driver side of the transmission. Drain it all out and fyi it drains much quicker if you take out the fill port bolt and drain bolt. So back to it now, drain it all out replace the drain plug bolt, then fill it up till it starts coming out of the fill plug and replace the fill plug/port bolt and your done. I believe the ax15 should take 3.25 quarts of oil.
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Old 03-28-2011, 02:19 PM   #19
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Remove the fill plug first, it'll suck if you pull the drain plug and discover you can't get the fill plug out.
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Old 03-28-2011, 02:20 PM   #20
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Not.. I don't remeber the exact size socket/wrench you need to use but its big. The drain hole is on bottom passenger side of transmission and the fill hole is half way up the side on the driver side of the transmission. Drain it all out and fyi it drains much quicker if you take out the fill port bolt and drain bolt. So back to it now, drain it all out replace the drain plug bolt, then fill it up till it starts coming out of the fill plug and replace the fill plug/port bolt and your done. I believe the ax15 should take 3.25 quarts of oil.

Sounds easy enough! I was recalling my first experience changing the fluid, filter and gasket on an automatic 20 years ago. I believe it was an old mustang. That was much more involved than this one sounds.
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Old 03-28-2011, 02:21 PM   #21
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Remove the fill plug first, it'll suck if you pull the drain plug and discover you can't get the fill plug out.
that would suck.... thanks for the tip!
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Old 04-02-2011, 06:11 AM   #22
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Hey all...I'm new to the forum. I recently bought my first Jeep and I love it. I have a 98 Sahara 6cyl...pretty much stock. I have just started to notice the same symptoms. When I first start driving, it drives perfect. After about 15 mins or so, I can't get it into first. Sometimes I can go into reverse and back to first quickly...but that is the exception. Usually I just can't get it into first without turning the Jeep off. Took it to 2 garages and got 2 different answers. 1 told me to replace the clutch...1 told me to replace master/slave cylinder. Both quoted between $500-$600. The clutch feels good to me, but I'm certainly not an expert. Any thoughts?
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Old 04-23-2012, 11:11 AM   #23
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Confused about which oil to use in AX5

Why not just fill it with Pennzoil Synchromesh? I've seen so many suggestions of which oil to use, I'm confused. I'm having the same issue if being hard to shift into first from a stand still when the trans warms up.
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Old 04-23-2012, 07:39 PM   #24
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I've seen issues where once warm the fingers on the pressure plate won't release the clutch disk completely. Therefore it is still pulling on the input shaft. When you put it into reverse does it have a grinding noise? That's probably slowing the input down enough to get it into first. If it was mine, I would do all of it.
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:53 PM   #25
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Shifting from a stop...

I've been reading a lot about this issue, even on various forums for other vehicles. There seems to be no real solution. Changed my trans oil today, using recommended synthetic 75-90 oil and substituted one qt with Pennzoil Synchromesh as suggested above. Still very difficult to shift into first gear from a stop. The problem seems simple, that maybe the clutch is not fully releasing - so it's keeping the trans components spinning (if you're in neutral with the clutch depressed). Yet, it's so slight that it's not displaying any signs of resistance or causing the jeep to want to move while the clutch is depressed. My clutch feels strong, has plenty of "pedal" and the slave feels great (and pumping makes no difference). It seems that manual transmissions should have some built-in drag - just enough to stop everything from spinning when you're stopped, in neutral, with the clutch depressed. Perhaps these trannys get so "worn" that they simply offer no resistance and spin too easily in this situation? It makes sense that if the trans work better cold, as the oil would be thicker and offer some internal resistance. At any rate, I'm frustrated that no one seems to be able to answer or solve this issue. I took the slave off today too to inspect it - hoping that the nylon "nub" on the end had worn away. No such luck. I'm tempted to "temporarily" replace the slave's push rod with something maybe 1/4" longer to see if the extra throw might help. Anyone ever try this?
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Old 04-25-2012, 01:08 PM   #26
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I've only had this Jeep a week and I swear this problem is getting worse - maybe the new oil actually made things worse. Today, I tried lengthening the push rod inside the slave cylinder (on the trans). I basically just put a 3/8 nut inside to pack it out and add about a 1/2 inch of travel. My thought was that it would allow the clutch to fully disengage if it's getting hung up for some reason. No dice - no difference (so I put everything back).
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Old 04-25-2012, 01:21 PM   #27
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I just bought a 94 YJ a couple of weeks ago.(been meaning to post, new to the forums) Anywho, mine does the same thing. Took it to my mechanic and said that it was weak slave cylinder. Since it's not too bad I haven't done it yet, so I can't verify the result. Will keep an eye on this thread, and keep you posted when I get it replaced.
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Old 04-25-2012, 01:51 PM   #28
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This is well done and a good explanation of how synchros work.

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Old 05-01-2012, 09:06 PM   #29
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just noticed this today...

I have a 97 4.0 5spd and just noticed the same issues a couple weeks ago. Just today it was the worst it's ever been.. Had to shut it off to get it into first because I didn't wanna break anything... Gunna try replacing the fluid in the morning and adding the necessary amount of synchromesh. I'll keep everyone posted..
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Old 05-02-2012, 11:01 AM   #30
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I think I'm going to 'start' with a new slave cylinder since that's pretty easy to do. If that doesn't help, perhaps a new clutch and components. I'm not convinced that it's a trans/sunchro problem. When I go for reverse (an unsynchronized gear) it's clear that the trans is not spinning down. That sounds clutch related to me.

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