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Old 03-10-2012, 11:55 PM   #1
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Headlight help

Ok I no I have ask once before about this but I have no headlight or dash lights or taillights or brake lights but I do have turn signal and a new switch headlights are new and work I have tested them ... Agin any help would be great thanks

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Old 03-11-2012, 12:04 AM   #2
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Check your grounds, contacts, etc. Are you getting ANY voltage to your headlight plugs?

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Old 03-11-2012, 12:17 AM   #3
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Since the headlights and tail lights both take power from the 50A fuse in the fuse box under the hood, it can't be the problem. Once the power gets to the fuse box, they are supplied by separate power sources. The headlights, taillights, marker lights and dash lights all take power from fuse #8 in the inside fuse box mounted to the firewall above the break pedal. I would check that first! They all have separate grounds, so it's just unlikely that all of the grounds went bad.

When you stick the key in the ignition do you hear the buzzer that tells you the key is in? The reason I ask is that it is also powered by the same fuse.

From the bottom left corner of the fuse box, it is the 20A two fuses to the right and one up (right above the aluminum clad fuse).

The next suspect would probably be the switch itself, if the fuse is good.
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Old 03-11-2012, 12:25 AM   #4
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Yes I am getting fire to the plug and I for got to say this but my YJ is a 89 so no under the hood fuses
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Old 03-11-2012, 12:30 AM   #5
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Gotcha I was going of the 91 diagram because of your user name. Sorry bout that! Let me check out the 89 wiring diagram real quick.

By buzzing, I meant the buzzing noise in the Jeep when you put the key in the ignition without turning it (not the engine turning over).
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Old 03-11-2012, 12:36 AM   #6
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The only difference seems to be that you'd have a fusible link rather than an under hood fuse box, but I don't suspect that anyhow. Looks like on the 1989, fuse #8 underdash (labeled PARK/TAIL) is likely the cause. 20A fuse in the center of the box above the aluminum clad fuse in the bottom row.
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Old 03-11-2012, 12:43 AM   #7
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Ok I'll check it thanks for your help and ill let you no how it turns out
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Old 03-11-2012, 12:48 AM   #8
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No problem........and do let me know, I'll look further if necessary. This is just the best spot to start. Good luck bud!
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Old 03-11-2012, 12:05 PM   #9
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Ok update the fuse is good and I'm getting fire to the fuse
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Old 03-11-2012, 01:27 PM   #10
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O.K. next would be to see if the plug at the switch (going in and going out). On the plug for the switch there should be four wires if you put a jumper from the red/black to the blue wire do the interior and running lights come on? The only ones that won't come on should be the headlights (different wire).
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Old 03-11-2012, 01:51 PM   #11
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Yes the switch is good and the plug has fire coming in on 3 wires a big brown with white strip a big red wire and a little red with black strip
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Old 03-11-2012, 01:56 PM   #12
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So with the switch turned on you have power on, do you have power at the blue wire?
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Old 03-11-2012, 01:57 PM   #13
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O.K. then with the switch turned on and plugged in do you have power going out on the blue wire? Oops double posted.
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Old 03-11-2012, 02:00 PM   #14
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Ok on the plug I have 5 wires..... I put a jumper in the red/black to the blue and no lights came on
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Old 03-11-2012, 02:05 PM   #15
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There is fire at the plug when you turn the switch on no fire ... And no the blue wire does not have fire when switched on
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Old 03-11-2012, 02:10 PM   #16
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How about if you jump from the red to the blue? Just out of curiosity would it help speed this up if I gave you my number so you could call?
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Old 03-11-2012, 02:14 PM   #17
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Yea any help would be great
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Old 03-11-2012, 02:17 PM   #18
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I PM you my number.
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Old 03-11-2012, 03:43 PM   #19
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If you find the relay we talked about under the dash, I think I may know what the problem is.
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:55 PM   #20
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Well small update I bought a new relay and it did not help ... I traced the wires back and the were good and good connection so I'm at a loss but maybe a new after market switch would do it at this point ......
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Old 03-11-2012, 10:59 PM   #21
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For all those nights to be out it has to be in the headlight, reostate switch. I'm going from memory but thats the only place dash lights, and exterior lights intersect.
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:21 PM   #22
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Could run a hot from the battery to where the red/black wire is on the switch with an inline 20A fuse. The you get the power back and still have good wiring the whole way.

All of the wiring after the switch is working, so it can't be relay. When we jumped from the battery to where the red/black connected, all we essentially did was bypass the fuse, so it should work. There could be corrosion between the two inside/outside halves of the fuse block. The weak connection would explain why the power disappears when it comes on.
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:46 PM   #23
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Ok so if I get a aftermarket switch what wires would I need to connect to the new switch
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Old 03-12-2012, 09:26 PM   #24
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I think your switch is fine, especially since none of the three worked. The switch worked great once it had strong power going to it. I'm 99.9% positive that if you just replace the red/black by going straight to the battery, with an in-line 20A, you'll be all set. If you go with aftermarket switches, you still have to run another power wire anyhow. Plus if you go with aftermarket, you'll have to run two separate switches (one for running lights/dash and another for headlights). Plus you'll need to wire in two relays to control them also. I'm I could make up a diagram for you, but I'm thinking it's WAY more costly, not to mention complicated and not really necessary.

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