Please I need help and advice on what to do... I have an 89YJ, SOA Added about 5 1/2 inches... After the soa I put a new drag link, new tie rod, new trac bar on the front end and also a drop down pitman arm and brand new steering box.... I have had am alignment done however I think it needs to redone, something's off... My issue is I have sever bump steer over 45mph... I am list and don't know what to do... I have read article after article on how to help this get better... I want my 7 yr old son to be able to enjoy the jeep... Here is question and I have a picture of the setup up currently and as soon as I figure out how to post this pics I will put them up... But currently the drag link, and trac bar, are on an angle from the axle up to the pitman arm, I guess fr what I have read I am under the understanding that the drag link and trac bar need to be Parallel to the ground? Or parallel to the tie rod (which is also brand new)??? The angle they are currently on is causing the bump steer ? Before I invest the time and money on changing the setup I would appreciate any advice... Also any advice on how to if needed get the drag link and trac bar parallel... Oh and I know everyone says get rid of the trac bar... I did that and it was even worse the front end so I put it back on... Thanks please help me out if you could...
Worn out parts maybe? I know the draglink does not need to be parallel to the ground. Not does the trac bar. But the only one that does is the tierod bar that connects both front wheels. Or maybe the drag link needs to be at less of an angle. Stock draglinks are on an angle but not so severe.
I don't know, all parts on from end are pretty much brand new... I don't know if drag link at to much of an angle... That's why I posted pictures hoping someone would see the angle and let me know it is to much of an angle... I appreciate you thoughts... I am lost and frustrated.. :-(
The Panhard bar or track bar is to be parallel to drag link. As well the track bar should be as close to the same length as the drag link. And finally if you can have both as level as possible that will compensate for difference in length (roll over centre). This will give the best handling. So what to do? Well.....
Ruff stuff 4x4 has weld on Panhard bar brackets for not much money.
Then you need to research for a steering knuckle that has attachment for high steer drag link.
I don't want to turn this into a track bar/no track bar debate but try losing the trac bar and drive it just to see if it still does it. Also, as previously pointed out, everything doesn't have to be parallel to the ground but the more severe the angle the more exaggerated things will be.
This is my set up. I have Reid Racing knuckles and a high steer set up which is a whole other project in itself but you can see how flat my steering runs. I get zero bump steer.
Big Red:'93 YJ, SOA, Deaver leafs, Fox shocks, Dana 44 front w Reid Racing knuckles, Ballistic Fab high steer, Detroit, Superior shafts & Warn hubs, Ford 8.8 (31spl/discs), "Super 88" kit, Detroit, Dana 300 w Low Max 4:1, 35" BFGs, Allied beadlocks, Mastercraft seats, Currie bumpers, Warn sliders, Gen Right fenders
Ok well I did not do the lift some kid I meet assured me he knew how to do it, he was in correct and butchered the job...I have spent months trying to fix his hack job... And I found a professional shop cheap and great at fabricating etc... So just so I am sure before I take It there and ask them to do this work... I also saw that the front axle and pumpkin where tilted way up and not straight... I was going to have them address this in the winter.., but I want to drive now in the summer... Just so I understand because I learning as I go... Great reading on this forum learning a lot... Need to fix the castor angle... And this WILL help reduce the bump steer aka moving and jerking from side to side when I got a bump???? Please advise and I really do appreciate everyone's expertise and input...
All the high steer in the world will not fix caster. I have a rig with the draglink at 36 degrees and a trackbar at 43 and it drives fine.
Caster is important but that is not classified as bump steer. Bump steer is when one wheel hits a bump and due to geometry the centering of the steering wheel changes to keep the wheels straight down the road. You actually feel this in the wheel when you hit a bump.
The castor is important and is something someone pointed out here. I agree that should be fixed as well. Do both IMO.
The kid did know what he was doing to do the lift. But not everyone is worried about steering and making there jeep handle well on the road. You only do what you know. I would thank the kid and then educate him. He was trying to help you the best he could I feel.
08' JKUR auto | traildash | SuperWinchEPi9 | ASFIR bumpers and skids | Xenon Flat Flares | TF 6" lift with monster Panhard bars | 37" GY MTRcK | MT classic II wheels 4.5" bs | Coast drive shafts | RCV front axleshafts | lots of extras
This is a serious problem with inverted T steering, there are a few rough 'fixes' for it, but they usually don't work. Your caster may be off, and you may have a bad center return but your bump steer and 'darting' behavior isn't going to change until you get rid of the RR / Rusty's style inverted T steering.
There are a million ways to build a Jeep, pick one and do it - you bought a canvas, not a painting!