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Old 07-11-2013, 10:11 PM   #1
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Help needed Overheat/No Start

Looking for some direction with an issue I had tonight with the ol girl. So specs on the jeep, it's an 87 with a 350/700r4 swap done by PO. I had her out in some traffic, water temp got up to about 220, by the time I pulled into the driveway, it had climbed to 230, then the motor stalled out and would not restart, and by no restart I mean it won't even crank. Accessory lights come on, radio works, but no crank. Then I notice a pretty steady stream of coolant pouring out, so I pop the hood and see the reservoir bracket had somehow snapped off and the res is now sitting sideways on top of the alternator...weird but probably explains the over heat.
Additionally, I had been having some intermittent no start issues recently that I traced to a loose hot wire to the starter. Tightening it down seemed to fix the issue until tonight. Waited until she cooled down a bit, then got under and wiggled the wire a little to see if maybe it came loose again but nope, it's still pretty snug in there so now I'm kind of stumped.
I don't even know where to start on this one. Is there any possible way the overheat could cause a no crank situation? There has to be two issues going here right? I would think even if the head gasket went, it should still at least crank. Anyone have any advice on what to check first? Love the jeep but she's getting to be more hassle than she's worth!

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Old 07-11-2013, 10:41 PM   #2
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Sis the water from the reservoir leak into the alternator and short something? Does the engine turn with a wrench in the crank?

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Old 07-11-2013, 11:07 PM   #3
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It's possible, but it didn't seem like a short at the time. I could feel it chugging and starting to gradually lose power as the temp rose. I think a short would have just cut it right out. Will check fuses tomorrow as well as see if engine manually turns. It's acting just like it did with the loose starter wire, everything comes right on but no crank.
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Old 07-12-2013, 12:51 AM   #4
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230 isn't that hot, at least not got enough to fry a motor. I think your on the right track with two separate issues. Could of fried the alternator or fuse and ran off the battery as long as it could.
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Old 07-12-2013, 10:36 AM   #5
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Engine turns freely so thats good. Inspected fuses, they all look good. Battery kept a full charge.

Loosened and repositioned the power wire to the starter (which was giving me problems two weeks ago) and that did nothing. Hit the starter a couple times with a mallet, also nothing-still getting power to accessory lighting, radio etc but will not crank.
Is there a way to test the alternator with the multi meter? If so, how much current should is have?
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Old 07-12-2013, 11:01 AM   #6
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sounds like you just have a starter or most likely a starter solenoid problem
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Old 07-12-2013, 12:56 PM   #7
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What's the best way to check the solenoid?
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Old 07-12-2013, 02:11 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Why-Jay View Post
What's the best way to check the solenoid?
when you apply power to the small wire on the solenoid either by turning the key to start or by jumping power to it from the battery cable going to it,you should here a click .this click is the solenoid closing its contacts to connect the battery power to the starter motor..if you have no click then the solenoid is not working..if you here a click but the starter doesn't turn then either the starter itself is bad or the solenoid contacts are bad..usually the starter and new solenoid come together
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Old 07-12-2013, 02:47 PM   #9
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Check the battery terminals and loosen and wiggle both of those wires and then retighten. Check the power leads both positive and negative for all connections. Put a meter on the battery and have someone turn the key to start. Battery voltage should drop 2-3 volts maybe little more. However if it drops below 10 volts that's not good. If it does drop 2-3 volts the solenoid is probably good but the starter is seized. If there is not voltage drop then either a blown fuse or bad solenoid.

If you have a manual you can try a push start. Second gear is best for this as first is to low. Check your coolant level before driving off.
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Old 07-12-2013, 02:52 PM   #10
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700r4 is an automatic
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Old 07-12-2013, 06:33 PM   #11
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Should have mentioned earlier, the starter is new. Replaced within the last 6 months. Doubt it's seized but could be wrong. Again, had been working fine after I tightened up the hot wire.
Battery seems fine, terminals recently replaced, wires on there snug. Multi readings look good, holding 12+.
Got underneath with the wife turning the key a few times and did not hear a click. Is there a way to free up the solenoid or am I in the market for a new starter? Honestly, I find it incredibly coincidental that the solenoid would quit right as it stalls out. Feel like there's something else missing here...
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Old 07-12-2013, 06:48 PM   #12
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Should have mentioned earlier, the starter is new. Replaced within the last 6 months. Doubt it's seized but could be wrong. Again, had been working fine after I tightened up the hot wire.
Battery seems fine, terminals recently replaced, wires on there snug. Multi readings look good, holding 12+.
Got underneath with the wife turning the key a few times and did not hear a click. Is there a way to free up the solenoid or am I in the market for a new starter? Honestly, I find it incredibly coincidental that the solenoid would quit right as it stalls out. Feel like there's something else missing here...
take a meter and make sure that the small wire on the solenoid gets voltage when your wife turns the key..if it is getting voltage but does not click then it is the solenoid..you can replace just the solenoid and keep the same starter motor

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