Help restore the shine! Painting Questions - Jeep Wrangler Forum
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Tech Forum

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on WranglerForum.com
Old 05-21-2013, 09:16 PM   #1
Jeeper
 
Fishnu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
Help restore the shine! Painting Questions

Ive got a black 94 yj, with tons of sun spots, and little spots that will turn into trouble if i dont do something this summer. I dont have $$$$s to spend on having someone do it for me. I also dont believe that is the jeep way. So I know its all in the prep. here are the questions, I have never tried anything like this before.
1. Should i even bother with plasti dip? I see its 300 for the entire setup for a large vehicle or just goto paint?
2. I will rent a compressor whats a good gun to spray? on the cheap
3. Sanding whats the best way to sand it down? How far down do i sand it down too? bare metal? what grit sand paper?
4. Primer or no?
5. If primer do i have to sand after the primer?
6. whats a good paint? duplicolor?
7. what about those plastic fenders how do you paint those? Do i have to remove them? Do i have to remove the doors, hood? As you can see I have a tiny garage to get this done in. Not like i can hang the doors and such from the ceiling. I will remove the top..
8. Any other tips, pointers are greatly welcomed.
here's a pic

Fishnu is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-21-2013, 09:28 PM   #2
IITYWTMWYBMAB

WF Supporting Member
::WF Administrator::
 
4Jeepn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Florence, KY
Posts: 10,218
Images: 5
I spend about 3 to 4 hundrend on mine with all the supplies.. had a buddy with a compressor and gun spray it for me.. you don't need to go down to bare metal.. unless you come across a rust area and need to repair it. You will want to skuff the surface I think I used 250, 600 and then 1000 grit. its been a while so don't recall it all.. But get the surface skuffed.. cloudly.. sand it down.. then spray can sandable primer.. then wet sand that down until is smooth as glass... Then use a paint prep oil remover and tact cloth then paint.. The better pre-paint you do the better the final will look. I used PPG shop line paint which is a one step process.. ran about 60-70 buck for a gallon which did the outside of the jeep with bit left over.

__________________
79.96.85.00.01.97.00.97.93.97.95.94
CJ.XJ.CJ. TJ. TJ.ZJ. TJ.TJ. ZJ.ZJ.YJ. XJ
4Jeepn is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-21-2013, 10:03 PM   #3
Jeeper
 
sinepome's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 513
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishnu View Post
Ive got a black 94 yj, with tons of sun spots, and little spots that will turn into trouble if i dont do something this summer. I dont have $$$$s to spend on having someone do it for me. I also dont believe that is the jeep way. So I know its all in the prep. here are the questions, I have never tried anything like this before.
1. Should i even bother with plasti dip? I see its 300 for the entire setup for a large vehicle or just goto paint?
2. I will rent a compressor whats a good gun to spray? on the cheap
3. Sanding whats the best way to sand it down? How far down do i sand it down too? bare metal? what grit sand paper?
4. Primer or no?
5. If primer do i have to sand after the primer?
6. whats a good paint? duplicolor?
7. what about those plastic fenders how do you paint those? Do i have to remove them? Do i have to remove the doors, hood? As you can see I have a tiny garage to get this done in. Not like i can hang the doors and such from the ceiling. I will remove the top..
8. Any other tips, pointers are greatly welcomed.
here's a pic
1. Plasti dip is a temporary solution compared to paint.
2. If your spraying it yourself and do not have access to a good gun. You can go with any hvlp gun. Don't get a siphon feed though. No matter what gun you get get ready to learn how to wet sand and buff.
3. First fix all the dents. Assuming your going to black, it's the hardest color to get right. If its got any shine to it, it will show EVERY imperfection. Sand with 180 all the places there are dents or scratches or whatever you find. If you need body filler, make sure it only goes on bare metal. After filler sand everything with 320. Tape it up and prime the entire vehicle. After that wet sand and block the whole thing with 500. It will take you some time but this is the best way to ensure you get all the sand scratches out ( remember, black shows EVERYTHING!) after that wetsand again with 600-800. And again with 1000-1200 if you desire. The finer grit the smoother
4. I think I covered primer. Any bare metal should be covered with self etching primer before the entire vehicle is primed.
5. Yes you have to sand the primer. Unless your using epoxy primer over bare metal but that's a whole different adventure. You do not have to sand the etching primer before priming if you do it shortly before.
6. Duplicolor... No. Shop line is not bad for the cheaper side. Pretty much anything ppg makes is good. You have to decide if you want single stage( color and clear in one ) or two stage( clear then color) single will be less shiny and IMO not worth the time.
7. Yes you have to take the plastic fenders off. If it were mine I would take everything off..... Everything I could. Plastic fenders, doors, lights, handles, top hardware( if applicable) anything that is going to get in the way of paint going where it needs to. The hood you can leave on just prop it up a bit before you tape everything up so you can get all the way under it on the fenders. The doors you can lay flat on a stand. No need to hang them up. Assuming your not doing the jamb. As far as painting the flares don't. Get a heat gun and CAREFULY heat them start small and you will see the surface flash navy to new. Just be careful and don't heat them too much. They melt pretty easily. Ha.
8. Take your time. The paint is in the prep. Your looking at about 25 hours in paint/prep time to do it right. Some people would rather pay someone to do it right than spend the time it takes. If you are the type to rush or "half ass" things then you are going to be greatly disappointed with your final outcome, and will be better off letting the professionals take care of it. If you are willing to learn and put down a lot of elbow grease and take your time it will turn out great. Don't get discouraged if you mess something up Or run your clear coat. It's all fixable that's the best part of painting.GL.
sinepome is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-21-2013, 10:55 PM   #4
Jeeper
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by sinepome View Post
6. Duplicolor... No. Shop line is not bad for the cheaper side. Pretty much anything ppg makes is good. You have to decide if you want single stage( color and clear in one ) or two stage( clear then color) single will be less shiny and IMO not worth the time.
I'm still in my learning phase of painting, but how do you do the two stage, (clear
then color) that you mentioned? Also, what decent quality HVLP gun would you recommend?

Sorry for hi-jacking....just a little.
Whotheguy is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-21-2013, 11:08 PM   #5
Jeeper
 
sinepome's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 513
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whotheguy View Post

I'm still in my learning phase of painting, but how do you do the two stage, (clear
then color) that you mentioned? Also, what decent quality HVLP gun would you recommend?

Sorry for hi-jacking....just a little.
First is the color. Do a few coats of that until everything is covered nice and even. Let that dry(flash) for a few minutes. Then apply at least 3 coats of clear. The more clear the better. A " decent"gun I would say sata 3000 or 4000. Those are going to be $600+. Unless you are ggoing to be doing this professionally it wouldn't be worth the investment. Just get a gravity fed gun from Walmart or a cheap one from the paint store. If you are just learning an expensive gun won't make you a painter. It's just as easy to mess up with either. General rules. 1 don't run the base coat. If you do, sand it out before continuing.
2. Get ready to wets and and buff that bad boy when your done painting. A good wet sand and buff can turn a dull crappy paint job into a glossy deep job. It just takes a lot of time to do it correctly. GL.
sinepome is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-21-2013, 11:17 PM   #6
Jeeper
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 31
Thanks GL. How do you feel about the old style pot sprayer?
Whotheguy is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-21-2013, 11:20 PM   #7
Jeeper
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 31
One more question, say you have a paint job that the clear coat is good on, color is red, but it has a hazy look to it? Rubbing compound, even heavy duty, doesn't make a difference. Are you talking 1000 grit wet sand, buff, wax, buff, polish and then buff?
Whotheguy is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-21-2013, 11:52 PM   #8
Jeeper
 
sinepome's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 513
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whotheguy View Post
One more question, say you have a paint job that the clear coat is good on, color is red, but it has a hazy look to it? Rubbing compound, even heavy duty, doesn't make a difference. Are you talking 1000 grit wet sand, buff, wax, buff, polish and then buff?
I wouldn't go any more corse than 1200. Wet sand it, maybe go back over it with 2000 if the clear is thick enough. After that buff polish ect. But Be careful through the whole process not to go thru the clear. If you burn thru the only fix is a repaint. This is also the way to get rid of imperfections in a fresh paint job trash, runs, texture(orange peal), ect. Use a sanding block also.
sinepome is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-21-2013, 11:57 PM   #9
Jeeper
 
sinepome's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 513
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whotheguy View Post
Thanks GL. How do you feel about the old style pot sprayer?
Not 100% sure what you are referring to, but I'm assuming that's a syphon feed gun. With the straw going down into paint cup. Those are just old technology. A gravity feed( cup on top) can be bought for less than $50. Worth the investment just to not have to deal with that syphon junk in my opinion.
sinepome is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-22-2013, 11:02 PM   #10
Jeeper
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by sinepome View Post
Not 100% sure what you are referring to, but I'm assuming that's a syphon feed gun. With the straw going down into paint cup. Those are just old technology. A gravity feed( cup on top) can be bought for less than $50. Worth the investment just to not have to deal with that syphon junk in my opinion.
Yes, you're on target with your assumption. Total old school days I know, but then again I'm getting old, with old school knowledge.
Whotheguy is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-22-2013, 11:05 PM   #11
Jeeper
 
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by sinepome View Post
I wouldn't go any more corse than 1200. Wet sand it, maybe go back over it with 2000 if the clear is thick enough. After that buff polish ect. But Be careful through the whole process not to go thru the clear. If you burn thru the only fix is a repaint. This is also the way to get rid of imperfections in a fresh paint job trash, runs, texture(orange peal), ect. Use a sanding block also.

I'm pretty confident I would burn through the clear, just not a whole lot there where I did some test sanding. My best bet is to shoot it all new. The only pisser I have is, the Jeep is factory red, I don't want to go red, so you know what that means? If I want it right I need to pull the body in order to get the front firewall color correct. Nothing would be worse than seeing a white Jeep, and then opening the hood and seeing a red firewall. I guess I could run blue ignition wires and call it a "flag theme".
Whotheguy is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-23-2013, 12:31 AM   #12
Jeeper
 
Fishnu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
ok, some im now a little scared about trying to do a black paint job. I would hate to drop all those hours of work into it and end up with a ton of orange peel. I am going to bed line the interior pretty much the same time i do the paint. How does bedliner look as a paint job?? Seriously! I have seen some pics and heard people say it looks good but im afraid of it looking like a bad 70s popcorn ceiling paint job.
Fishnu is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-23-2013, 12:34 AM   #13
Jeeper
 
Fishnu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 20
oh yeah another question. Whats the best way to sand her down?? grinder, drill, dremel, or my soon to be buff arms?? Hell im like a damn stripper I need and want tips!
Fishnu is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-23-2013, 10:49 AM   #14
Jeeper
 
sinepome's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 513
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishnu View Post
ok, some im now a little scared about trying to do a black paint job. I would hate to drop all those hours of work into it and end up with a ton of orange peel. I am going to bed line the interior pretty much the same time i do the paint. How does bedliner look as a paint job?? Seriously! I have seen some pics and heard people say it looks good but im afraid of it looking like a bad 70s popcorn ceiling paint job.
I think bed liner is not a bad idea. It may be difficult to clean. If you paint it orange peal is probably the least of your worries. You can wet sand and buff orange peal out usually.
sinepome is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-23-2013, 10:53 AM   #15
Jeeper
 
sinepome's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 513
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishnu View Post
oh yeah another question. Whats the best way to sand her down?? grinder, drill, dremel, or my soon to be buff arms?? Hell im like a damn stripper I need and want tips!
Get a da sander( dual action). You can probably get one cheap. That is an air tool tho so a compressor is required. If no da then an electric hand sander should do. Or get yourself a set of sanding blocks and go to town any wet sanding you do should be done by hand and a block anyways. A grinder is going to take it down to the metal way too fast and a drill or dremel aren't really for sanding.
sinepome is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-23-2013, 10:56 AM   #16
Jeeper
 
sinepome's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 513
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whotheguy View Post

I'm pretty confident I would burn through the clear, just not a whole lot there where I did some test sanding. My best bet is to shoot it all new. The only pisser I have is, the Jeep is factory red, I don't want to go red, so you know what that means? If I want it right I need to pull the body in order to get the front firewall color correct. Nothing would be worse than seeing a white Jeep, and then opening the hood and seeing a red firewall. I guess I could run blue ignition wires and call it a "flag theme".
Doing the jambs is a whole other adventure. Involving more prep, masking, painting, and disassembly. But if any of this was too easy anyone could do it and I would be out of a job. Haha. GL guys.
sinepome is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-23-2013, 02:27 PM   #17
Jeeper
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Tyler, TX
Posts: 265
Thanks for this info. I have been wanting to paint my full doors and hood (White) to bring them back to life.
__________________
1989 YJ, 4.2/TF999
Cashcrazy is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-23-2013, 11:45 PM   #18
Jeeper
 
stuntmansjeep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bellingham
Posts: 76
stuntmansjeep is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-24-2013, 07:18 AM   #19
Jeeper
 
sinepome's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 513
Quote:
Originally Posted by stuntmansjeep View Post
You can use anything you want to wet sand. That's a da and they are usually used to dry sand. I personally wouldn't use anything other than a block and my arms for wet sanding.
sinepome is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-24-2013, 09:43 AM   #20
Jeeper
 
stuntmansjeep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bellingham
Posts: 76
It says its a wet sander but since it is a air compressed one I wouldn't be really comfortable using it. How many gallons of paint do you think it would take to paint the inside and outside of my jeep? For how many coats?
stuntmansjeep is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-24-2013, 10:40 AM   #21
Jeeper
 
sinepome's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 513
Quote:
Originally Posted by stuntmansjeep View Post
It says its a wet sander but since it is a air compressed one I wouldn't be really comfortable using it. How many gallons of paint do you think it would take to paint the inside and outside of my jeep? For how many coats?
I would get at least 1.5-2 gallons. Of base and one of clear. Base you just want to make sure it's covered and not see thru. Clear a minimum of 2 coats. The more the better I say.
sinepome is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-24-2013, 10:43 AM   #22
Jeeper
 
stuntmansjeep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bellingham
Posts: 76
Would a gallon of clear coat be enough for 3 coats?
stuntmansjeep is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-24-2013, 12:09 PM   #23
Jeeper
 
sinepome's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 513
Quote:
Originally Posted by stuntmansjeep View Post
Would a gallon of clear coat be enough for 3 coats?
If you don't clear the inside is SHOULD be enough. I would ask the paint shop people if you get 2 and don't need one could u return it. Clear is expensive( you get what you pay for) but you don't want to run out mid coat.
sinepome is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Old 05-24-2013, 02:54 PM   #24
Jeeper
 
stuntmansjeep's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Bellingham
Posts: 76
Ya I would like to clear the inside too. I might only d one coat of clear on the inside though since I'm putting insulation and carpet in but the reason I was wanting to clear coat is because you can still see through to the body in a few places

stuntmansjeep is offline   Quote Quick Reply
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off




Download our Mobile App

» Network Links
»Jeep Parts
» Featured Product

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:36 PM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC