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3K views 59 replies 6 participants last post by  way2fastmike 
#1 ·
okay this going to be long but maybe someone can help. back in oct during the hurricane (Matthew) my daughter called me stranded beside the road, got there the jeep seemed to be out of fuel, would start right up but shut down. i put fuel in it and got it started, dont think it was out of gas, but was acting like it. got the jeep home running it in third gear keeping the rpm up. took it to a repair man. he keep it two weeks, replaced the intake gasket,replaced some vaccum lines he said was question. said it was leaking. also the valve cover gasket. said he checked out the fuel pump, regulator and no problem, had good pressure. said the tps was good also. called me to come get it as he cant fix it. didn't have a machine to run codes. picked it up and took home. run sea foam in the fuel.
no help. still act like it was starving for fuel. took to another repair shop. kept it a week. replaced battery, injector, and fuel pump, new plugs and the i.s.a. motor. helped a little but still not right. still sputtering a little and sometime wants to die and cut off at stop lights, now its using double the fuel it did before and im getting black soot out the back onto the ground. so i got it home and decided to change some parts my self. i installed new, air filter, M.A.P. SENSOR, C.P.S, T.P.S., I ALSO CHECKED OUT THE PCV and it is sucking good and when off i can hear the rattle in it so it seems to be okay. guys im at the ropes end hanging on.thanks for all the commits to now and in the days to come.
 
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#2 ·
I can't help you with posting the video.

What I can tell you is that anything made by man can be repaired by man.

Sometimes the issues with our Jeeps require a learning curve. Most of us aren't mechanics and those of us that are still learn things regularly.

Don't be shy about asking for help. Not every forum member goes onto this forum every day, so you may have to post your problem again from time to time.

The best way to get the most help is to give as much detail about your problem as you can. In the general forum see "A better way to get help when posting on the technical forum".

With a basic tool kit and determination, you will be surprised at how much you can accomplish. Don't let it beat you. We can help.

Good Luck, L.M.
 
#3 ·
Hey guys I have a short 2min video I would like to post of the problem I am having, I's there a way to do that. I am at my ropes end with this jeep. Next step is a forsale sign.
Please help.
Thanks
Michael
I don't know if this will help but what I do is post the video to YouTube. Once there I copy and paste the link into the thread.
I'm sure there are other ways without going to YT first but I don't know them.

Post up the issues with the Jeep. There's tons of help here!
 
#4 ·
YouTube. If you have a GMail account, you have a YouTube account. You can choose to upload a video as unlisted.
 
#6 ·
Here is what has been replaced as of now.
Intake gasket
Valve cover gasket
Battery
Some vacuum hoses
M.a.p sensor
C.p.s.
T.p.s.
I.s.a. sensor
Air filter with a knm
Plugs
Fuel pump
Tbi injector
The plug wires and rotor and cap is about a year old.
The pcv was checked and is good.
Run sea foam in the fuel system and added premium fuel.
 
#7 ·
I just went thru your earlier posts.
The "mechanic" replaced the injector in the throttle body and then you started getting the soot. That makes me think he got the wrong injector.
Injectors are rated by the total amount of fuel they will flow in a specific amount of time. The ECM pulses the injector for a specific amount of time based on input from the various sensors on the engine. With an injector rated to flow more fuel than the original, the engine will constantly run rich at all engine speeds.
If you have the invoice with the part number of the injector, post it up(the part #) and we may be able to determine if it is correct.
Also, was the throttle body mounting gasket replaced?
 
#8 ·
What are symptoms of a problematic injector?

Check Engine Light/Misfiring engine caused by a change in the injector's flow
Noticeable fuel odor caused by leaky injector
Reduced gas mileage caused by an incorrect injector spray pattern
Inconsistent engine idling, hesitation or stalling caused by dirty injectors due to low quality fuel

Do you know if the mechanic changed both injectors, cleaned IAC, replaced fuel filter?
 
#9 ·
First thought: intake leak. Smoke test will verify. Airslot also seems to be onto something here with the injector.

Vacuum test also may be warranted. You seem to have a rough idle and misfire. See which cylinder is misfiring by holding a 12V test light, clamp on ground, near a distributor terminal as you pull the wire. If the engine sounds the same, that cylinder has a misfire.

The reason you hold the test light near the terminal is to direct the spark. Otherwise you'll get a shock.

Here's a video of poor vacuum...

https://youtu.be/PjeWxVoWZsg
 
#12 ·
As it surges, check these things:
Engine vacuum
Fuel pressure
Injector pulse*

Injector pulse may or may not be helpful, sometimes it's too fast to see/hear.
 
#16 ·
Who said there was a second injector? There should only be one but I believe there are some aftermarket mods for a second injector.

Injector pulse is checked with a NOID light. You basically just want to look for the light to flash faster as the engine surges. If it flashes faster, the PCM is firing the injector more frequently.

I just read the factory service manual. Here is what it says:

IDLE SPEED ERRATIC, LOW, OR HIGH CONSISTENTLY

Either:
ISA (idle speed actuator) motor inoperative
No ECU output

Fix:
Requires special tool

Is the ISA motor mentioned at all in the "swaptronics" invoices from the shops?
 
#15 ·
It might sound simple but I had the same issues with my snow blower and lawn mower. I added SeaFoam ran it for a while. It improved but then I added "Mechanic in a Bottle" I got at Home Depot. As small slim tube found near the lawn mowers section. It cleared the junk out of the carb and ran great after that. It was a cheap fix and can't hurt to try. I did had to take out and clean the plugs after that since the gunk collected on the plugs but that was easy to do. Sorry, I'm guessing your engine in carbonated.
 
#17 ·
Yes the isa was replaced, that guy working on it today said the new one he put on was bad oUT of box, so he put another one on today. It's working but we still have the same problem. He says I need to take it to a dealer. Or put a new computer on it. ??????

there is no vacuum leak that we can find.
 
#20 ·
Check the injector pulse with a NOID light so that you can see if the PCM is sending more fuel or if you just have an uncontrolled air leak.
 
#21 ·
Another thing I'd recommend would be to check the TPS voltage as the idle surges. Easy to check with a standard voltmeter (digital).
 
#22 ·
okay, some more info....so a guy told me to run sea foam in the vacuum lines to the intake. i did, just as told, let it sit then ran it. i then took it out for a drive and was told to be hard on it so i did. found out something not sure what but something. normal driveing is bad......at full throttle it runs great. for a stand still easing off.....bad......but full throttle it runs like a bad ass.......so now im really confused.......ill just tell my daughter to put it to the floor all the time.......nah i cant do that.......any ideas????
thanks for yalls help.
michael
 
#23 ·
Check the TPS voltage and injector pulse.
 
#25 ·
I can walk you through it.

TPS (I've done this on a few Chrysler vehicles)...
Three wires: 5 volt supply (red w/ tracer, also goes to MAP sensor), ground (brown w/ tracer), and PCM input (yellow w/ tracer)

First let me explain how the TPS works. It is a variable resistor. The voltage drop across the resistor ranges from 0V to 5V, but usually is between 1V and 4V. Voltage rises as throttle opens. THIS IS NOT A 12V CIRCUIT. Rather it is a 5V circuit.

1. Turn key ON.
2. Test ground. Black lead of multimeter on sensor ground (brown wire), red lead on battery positive. Should read battery voltage (I know I said this is not a 12V circuit but this is just a check of the ground).
3. Test 5V supply. Black lead of multimeter on ground anywhere (MAKE SURE YOUR GROUND IS GOOD). Red lead on red wire. Should read 5V. Again, make sure your key is on.
4. Test PCM input. Black lead of multimeter on ground anywhere, like before. Red lead on yellow wire.
5. SLOWLY open the throttle manually. Voltage should slowly climb from around 1V to 4V.

Post the following info:
Voltage readings in step 2 and 3
Starting voltage (idle voltage) and wide open voltage in step 5

Follow all directions literally and exactly. Post any questions.

*Note: to backprobe the connectors, thin paperclips sometimes work. I prefer t-pins, available at most office supply stores. Sewing needles could work.

This is my suspect. If it checks out fine, then look at the injector pulse.

YouTube video...
https://youtu.be/URNYaGXM_uQ
 
#26 ·
I forgot to mention that this sensor should be on the throttle body itself, and you want a good multimeter to use. The Harbor Freight one is surprisingly decent, as shown in the video.
 
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