Hello everyone I have added an additional horn to the passenger side of my jeep and wired it directly to the horn on the driver side just to give an additional auditory alert for knuckleheads in the city that can not see my bright red jeep coming at them.
So will the relay handle a 2nd horn or do I need to change relays?
When I got my YJ the horn (among many other things) did not work. I installed a pair (hi & lo note) horns from NAPA. Still no horn. I cleaned the springy thing under the horn cap and now both horns work. I never touched the horn relay.
The relays in the pic are for the headlamps.
Yeah I am not sure what my issue is anymore I tested the horns and they work installed new relay that is metal instead of plastic but no horn so now I am back tracing to find my issue need to know where power comes into the relay from anyone know that? want to isolate the column from the problem and see if issue is column or something else any ideas?
Not sure about series or parallel I forget that but what I did was splice off the feed going to horn and pigtailed it to feed second blazer horn also put rubber gasket to keep it from grounding to frame of car old horn only had 1 wire so was trying to keep it same
anyways, dont use the 'rubber' isolator, or if you do, make sure you run a 12v+ to one of the connectors, and the other connector needs to go to ground... (the bolt on the bracket will work fine)
btw, I installed the same setup today... lo and hi horn.. .sounds ten times better then the crappy horn I had before... it sounded like a barbie jeep before...
the wiring is a switch positive... that means that the positive lead is switched, and when made open, the horn wont work, when closed the horn will work.
and if using a 'relay', you are incorporating two circuits...
onc circuit will energize the coil in the relay, and the other circuit powers the horn...
im not understaning why you found aluminum in the horn button...absolutely shouldnt be there.
use steel wool or a scotch brite pad to clean the metal cup and the metal contact plate...
typically, if a device has TWO wires, or connectors, then the device is POSITIVE SWITCHED.
if it has ONE wire, then it is a ground switch/resistor... meaning it uses the chassis or the motor as the ground and the power is controlled thru the switch.. typically these are sensors... they are sensing voltage being returmed
what size fuse do you have? the wiring is a switch positive... that means that the positive lead is switched, and when made open, the horn wont work, when closed the horn will work. and if using a 'relay', you are incorporating two circuits... onc circuit will energize the coil in the relay, and the other circuit powers the horn... im not understaning why you found aluminum in the horn button...absolutely shouldnt be there. use steel wool or a scotch brite pad to clean the metal cup and the metal contact plate... typically, if a device has TWO wires, or connectors, then the device is POSITIVE SWITCHED. if it has ONE wire, then it is a ground switch/resistor... meaning it uses the chassis or the motor as the ground and the power is controlled thru the switch.. typically these are sensors... they are sensing voltage being returmed
Take a picture of you canceling cam and post turns out my issue was the new canceling cam was grounding the circuit and causing horn to sound constantly once I fixed other issues like fried relay I was able to check voltage and continuity from horn to relay to steering column to isolate where my actual issue was.
Zack Take a picture of you canceling cam and post turns out my issue was the new canceling cam was grounding the circuit and causing horn to sound constantly once I fixed other issues like fried relay I was able to check voltage and continuity from horn to relay to steering column to isolate where my actual issue was. Glad to have mine resolved. Chief
I think my horn is just pulling too much juice. I'm going to try and wire in a relay this weekend and go from there. But your post has me confused on what you were asking/ telling me to do lol
I'm not sure what problems it would really cause, aluminum foil is not conductive or really that tick.. I promise you sotchbrite pad or sand paper takes way longer and wire wheels are MUCH more abrasive.
I think you have me confused with someone else... I have the stock black wire to the ground, and the stock green and red(?) wire to the positive. I also only have one horn and no idea about a rubber isolator. Like I said, I just believe it pulling too much juice and needs a relay wired it.
and for the record.. I have heard of using aluminum foil to 'remove' rust... I am not a firm believer..... first off it is way more expensive then using steel wool or other abrasive remedies to 'remove' rust... as the process you are 'suggesting' is abrative...
but, I would not 'recommend' using aluminum foil to remove rust or corrosion on electrical parts, as pieces of the aluminum foil can become loose and lodged inbetween contacts and cause more problems...
again, too many other options to do the same thing and do it better.
good job and getting it fixed/working... wtg and for the record.. I have heard of using aluminum foil to 'remove' rust... I am not a firm believer..... first off it is way more expensive then using steel wool or other abrasive remedies to 'remove' rust... as the process you are 'suggesting' is abrative... but, I would not 'recommend' using aluminum foil to remove rust or corrosion on electrical parts, as pieces of the aluminum foil can become loose and lodged inbetween contacts and cause more problems... again, too many other options to do the same thing and do it better.
When you bake/grill/cook 7# of chicken a week for your self you got some foil your can 'repurpose.'
Right I wouldnt use it on say a bulb socket but as I posted using to clean a couple little pieces of flat metal, it's a lot easier, cleaner, and faster than the other options. But be realistic about it, you're not clean a frame with it there's better options, just like how a wire wheel would have marked up the metal and scotch would have taken much longer. Just like how a scotch bright but none of others would work to clean the metal contacts on the bulb socks on the back of the gauges. Just have to use the right tool for the job
My horn keeps blowing fuses. Its the factory horn in my 94 4.0. Is it possible to crack open the horn to look for the short or is it easier to just replace it?
I could be wrong but your horn should just switch to ground in the steering wheel. Might check wiring around the relay. The coil wires and #30. See what's grounding out. Just my suggestion.
i would remove the horn from the circuit, and then replace the fuse, and with the horn out of the circuit, try pushing the horn button and see if it 'blows' the fuse? check for voltage at the wires...
remove the battery cable, and then use your multimeter with OHMs settings and then check for resistance at the horn connections... then check for resistance at the wires
from the wire coming from the steering wheel to the frame/ground. (do this only with the battery disconnected...)
it is possible for the horn coil to get old and or burnt, but it is 'unlikely', as it could only get burnt if you use too much voltage or leave the horn blaring for a long period and over heating the coil.
but again, not very likely.
more likely it is a wiring problem, or a relay problem...
Thanks for the info. I did try swapping relays, still blew the fuse. Also tried disconnecting the horn and pushing the horn button, did not blow the fuse, but didn't think it would since the horn wasn't connected to complete the circuit
you can measure the horn resistance... use the multimeter on OHM/resistance setting.. and check for about 2 ohms or so...
if it is less then 2 ohms, I would replace it...
again, the horn works by using a coil that gets energized and attracts a vibratory mechanism that makes that annoying horn sound... a coil is exactly that, a coil of wire that has very little resistance... which is why you need a relay.
if the horn isnt shorted out completely, I would then test the horn with one wire from the battery positive, and the other wire to the negative battery terminal.
do it 'temporarily'.. i.e. connect one wire from the horn to the negative, but only touch the positive wire to the horn, do not 'connect' it via some type of semi permenant connection.
just touch the wire to the horn...it should sound the horn..
it may, spark a little when touching the horn connection... if it sparks too much, it maybe a problem.. if it doesnt sound the horn, it is a problem.
it maybe just easier to get another horn...they are cheap enuf...
you can measure the horn resistance... use the multimeter on OHM/resistance setting.. and check for about 2 ohms or so... if it is less then 2 ohms, I would replace it... again, the horn works by using a coil that gets energized and attracts a vibratory mechanism that makes that annoying horn sound... a coil is exactly that, a coil of wire that has very little resistance... which is why you need a relay. if the horn isnt shorted out completely, I would then test the horn with one wire from the battery positive, and the other wire to the negative battery terminal. do it 'temporarily'.. i.e. connect one wire from the horn to the negative, but only touch the positive wire to the horn, do not 'connect' it via some type of semi permenant connection. just touch the wire to the horn...it should sound the horn.. it may, spark a little when touching the horn connection... if it sparks too much, it maybe a problem.. if it doesnt sound the horn, it is a problem. it maybe just easier to get another horn...they are cheap enuf... good luck
I will admit that im a dumdum when using a multimeter. Dial should be set to 2k? Im getting a zero reading at that setting as well as higher
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