Just wondering how high you could go with a YJ (95) without needing brake line extensions or an extended drive shaft and all the other stuff that would have to be modified? What's the the highest I could go..? 3"? 4"?
Thanks ahead peeps Sorry for not searching, gotta run to work so I'll just post and check here later :P
Well every Jeep is going to be a little different, even similar models might act up at different heights. But generally Id say you can get away with 4" tops without needing a sye/driveshaft/extended brake lines. Since most lifts that height have a drop for the skid it corrects the ds problem a little and the brake lines sometimes get relocation brackets. It also depends on the quality of the lift you buy as well.
Hey thanks for the quick reply man. Anyone else want to chime in here? Unfortunately a question about automobiles can be asked to, lets say, 4 different people and you'd get 4 different answers for the same question.
So coyote what about everything else that has to get modified? This SYE I keep reading about and the driveshaft and the transfer case or what not...? Lets get into details here!
I came from installing Stance Coilovers to put my car 1" off the ground to wanting to put my Wrangler 12' (THAT'S RIGHT I SAID TWELVE FEET) off the ground! Camber kits, staggered wheels, tires measured like so: 285/30/18, Berk Tech. GT3076R Turbo, Full Ferrea component built/ported/polished head, full internals, HKS 264 Cams, Apex'i exhaust, so on and so forth!! I'm super lost in the Wrangler off roading/mudding/crawling game. The one that caught my attention the most was the crawling of course... it looks like SO MUCH DAMN FUN! But that gets back into spending big bucks that I don't want to spend on cars anymore, hell, that's why I sold all my CARS and got the Wrangler.
SO! SoA seems like the biggest and most comfortable lift for the cheapest price. Biggest bang for the buck we can say. So what exactly do I need? What's the ghetto way and what's the professional way?
Sorry for all the questions :P Still looking forward to the pics coyote. And thanks for your into as well whiteyj!
When doing an SOA there are a few things that need to be addressed. Keep in mind that this is just for doing the SOA. For rock crawling you'll want to do more to the jeep than just lift it.
1) Steering Geometry.
2) Brake Lines.
4) Driveline Angle.
5) Pinion Angle and Spring Perches.
1) Steering Geometry for an SOA is easily addressed by getting a drop pitman arm and adjusting the drag link a little to get the steering wheel back to center. I've seen them run between $20 and $80. Personally I would go for one with a name brand(Skyjacker, Rubicon Express), so if it fails you have someone to go after.
2) Brake Lines we've already covered. Extensions or relocation. As far as emergency brakes I think I was able to adjust them out a bit and things worked out ok. I do believe that I removed the passenger side e-brake cable from its support bracket in the middle of the tub to allow it to move freely under full axle drop.
3) Shocks. You can buy new shocks to accommodate the added lift or you can buy or fab up new shock mounts and relocate them. I chose to make my own shock mounts and relocate them because it was way cheaper (free) and I could move the shock mounts so they weren't hanging below the axle tube. Granted I went overboard and fabbed them out of 1/4" steel, but I already had the piece of scrap laying around.
4) Drive line angle can be handled one of 2 ways. First is the drop transfer case. Its the cheapest and easiest way, $50 or less. The other is of course the SYE. I've seen them for as little as $178 (Advance Adapters) and requires disassembly of the t-case. The easiest is the Rubicon Express Hack 'N' Tap for $190; which is what I have. It does not require disassembly of the t-case. All the other SYE brand kits can go up to about $400 depending on the MFG and length and they require disassembly of the t-case. And if your going SYE then you'll need to complement that with a CV drive line. There are many different vendors that put these out, and they usually sell for at least $200. For my particular situation (a total of 12" of lift and a tummy tuck) I had to go with the one that could handle the steepest angles. The company that HANDS DOWN has the best drive lines is Tom Woods. They can and will provide for more flex then all the rest. They also have their own line of sweet u-joints. They have the grease zerk in the end of the cap for super easy access. I think mine (from Tom Woods) cost about $400 with shipping. My old one is from 4WD Hardware and at the time I bought it, it was about $265.
5) Spring perches can be ordered online or in some places picked up locally from a 4x4 shop or a axle shop. I happen to have a spring and axle shop in town. I believe I picked up the perches for less than $20 for all 4.
Pinion angle is set when you weld the spring perches to the axle. When setting the front pinion angle you will want the old and new spring perches to be exactly parallel. I.E. the angle on the front will never change. It will affect handling, tire wear and vehicle stability if you change this. As for the rear end you want to point the center line of the pinion at the center of the output of the t-case or 1 or 2 degrees lower. You will need an angle finder for this. I recommend 1 degree of pinion angle. When you accelerate the axle twists and the pinion rotates up. You don't want to end up in a situation where the pinion points above the t-case input under load.
Whew!!! I believe I have covered the long and short of it. Someone can chime in if I missed anything. I mean after all it is 2:30am now and bobbin and weavin already.
Mmmkay...I'm gonna hit the hay now and when I get up I'll take and post those pics.
Woo, someone who knows their shit! Now you're going to hate yourself for exposing your knowledge, your PM box will always be full of dumb questions! About the pics, you need to post pics of the full vehicle man! Let me see it in all its glory.
Ok, I've decided against the SoA set-up for my own personal reasons. I'd like to do about a 5-1/2" lift... My suspension is all types of shot so I just want to buy a 3.5" suspension lift and then maybe a 2" body lift or some shackles... point is I'll be around 5 to 5-1/2" higher, will I NEED a drive shaft and all that or can I just do it and slap some bigger tires on there? Think 5-1/2", I know someone said I could get away with 4", so if it takes too much modifying I might just stick around at the 4" lift.
Oh here's one more. Since I'm STILL not used to standard tire measurements, see if you can answer this question for me as well. My rims are 15x8... how wide can I go with the tires? I know I could pass 8" wide tires because all you get is a bit of bulge... but what's the limit... so I'm not taking a turn at 20 MPH and my tires pops off my rim, ya know what I mean? Could I squeeze a 33x10-R15 on there? Have an inch of tire bulging to both sides?
I would question just what the quality would be when a RE 2-1/2" kit is over $700.
33x12.50x15's are pretty normal on 15x8 wheels.
^ x2 ^ on both accounts.
As far as what you would have to do with 5.5" of lift...It is going to be the same as the SoA minus the perches, depending on how you attain that lift. When trying to determine if your going to need a drop pitman arm or an sye the only part of the lift your going to take into consideration is the suspension lift because the body lift does not alter your suspension. With 3.5" of suspension lift you are probably not going to need the SYE and CV, I would do the drop pitman arm though.
Again guys thank you for your help and information. In the future after doing much homework, experimenting, and plain ol' trial and error I'll be able to help others myself. Thanks to you guys though I won't rely so much on trial and error!
I'll post after pics after I lift it a bit.
I put a 4 in procomp on my 95 and extended the brake lines. I wheeled the heck out of it for years with zero issues in the drive line dept.. now ive put a Rubicon Express 4 inch on my 94 and ive got all kinds of vibration with the drive line and my non extended brake lines are stretched! you just don't know what you're gonna get until u do it. Id put some money aside in case u have any issues just to be safe. I don like the idea on moving the mounts the the underside of the frame though!
95' YJ 4.0, 5speed, 4in procomp, 33 BFG muds, 4:10s, rino lined tub....will be missed
94' YJ 4.0, auto with A/C, wheelin in comfort! 4in Rubicon Express, 1in shackles, 33 BFG muds, rino lined tub
99' TJ 4.0, 5speed, 3in BDS, 33 Wrangler muds, Lynx sprayed interior