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Old 09-17-2011, 10:24 AM   #1
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How to bleed coolant? Replaced stuff, still overheats in 5 mins

'93 4.0

I replaced the thermostat, thermo housing and put a new radiator in. No leaks but it will just hit redline temp in 5 mins at idle.

I think I have air in the lines. I searched for instructions on how to get the air out but found nothing.

thanks

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Old 09-17-2011, 10:39 AM   #2
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When they get vapor locked, I've always just opened radiator cap just a little until I get all the air out. Sometimes it may take 3 or 4 times opening and closing. Hope this helps.

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Old 09-17-2011, 05:27 PM   #3
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Id squeeze the hose to make sure you have enough coolant in the radiator. Then I'd replace the thermostat again because there really isn't any other reason for it to overheating that fast, thermostats are tempromental little bast**ds. Good luck with the new radiator.
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Old 09-17-2011, 08:08 PM   #4
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Old 09-17-2011, 08:17 PM   #5
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Quote:
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Id squeeze the hose to make sure you have enough coolant in the radiator. Then I'd replace the thermostat again because there really isn't any other reason for it to overheating that fast, thermostats are tempromental little bast**ds. Good luck with the new radiator.
X2 on the thermostat. They can be bad straight out of the box. Sucks but sometimes its a crap shoot. Luckily they're inexpensive. Good luck.
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Old 09-17-2011, 11:42 PM   #6
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If you think you have an air pocket in the motor try filling the block up with one of the heater hoses un-hooked. You can also try raising the back of the jeep up. Had to do that one a dirt track car when we first put the motor in.
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Old 09-18-2011, 01:57 AM   #7
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The water pump is low enough that it always is drawing fluid from the bottom of the radiator. So as long as there is fluid in the system enough to keep the pump supplied, air should be forced out at the top of the engine. Opening the radiator and bleeding out the air should remove air from the system and assuming that there is some liquid in the overflow bottle, the system should be good to go.
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Old 09-18-2011, 02:10 AM   #8
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I had this problem with mine. Turns out there was no air bleeder hole in the thermostat from the factory, so an air bubble was trapped behind it preventing it from opening.

Punched a small hole in it, positioned the hole at the top, and put it all back together. Well what do you know it was all working properly.
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Old 09-18-2011, 05:21 AM   #9
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over heating

My son had the same problem. The water pump was not showing signs of being bad. BUT the fins on the shaft was gone as in worn off. So it could not pump the coolant thur the engine. Replaced the water pump and all is fine. KEEP IT COOL
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Old 09-18-2011, 10:11 AM   #10
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I wouldnt recommend driving the vehicle like this, however, you can check to see if the thermo or water pump is bad by simply removing it. Take out the thermo and crank it up, if the engine still red lines, you know that your system is not cycling fluid properly (vapor lock/water pump). On the other hand, if your not red lining, you know that you have a faulty thermo.

I had a truck thermo that went bad on me while out in the woods. Took out the thermo, made a make shift gasket using silicon spray and cardboard. Saved my ass till I drove to town and bought a new gasket and thermo from the parts store.
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Old 09-18-2011, 10:23 AM   #11
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I had that problem on an older 4.0 after I replace the water outlet. Come to find out after have a new head gasket and head installed and was still doing it, the water outlet had the small outlet plugged from the autoparts store. The mfgr never knocked out the rest of the casting. I told the store about it, and they offered no compensation.
Don't drive it like this until you find out what is wrong.
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Old 09-18-2011, 10:24 AM   #12
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There are a couple ways to get the air out if the system seems to be air-locked on a closed cooling system
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Old 09-18-2011, 01:26 PM   #13
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X2 on running without the thermostat to see if still overheating.......if runs OK 'stat is bad ....check it in a pan of boiling water......should open around 190-200.......

If pump is working..... should be no reason for an "air pocket".....
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Old 09-18-2011, 02:59 PM   #14
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When you replace the thermostat it is best to spend a few dollars more and get a fail safe thermostat. It can save your motor and let you drive the jeep home if it ever goes bad.
A stock or cheap thermostat will stay closed when they go bad as where a fail safe thermostat will stay fully open if it goes bad allowing the motor to cool and allowing you to keep driving till you can get it replaced all for about 3 bucks more.
Also when filling or refilling the coolant turn on your heater on high both temp and fan so the coolant can flow thru the heater core so all trapped air can move thru the system.
MotoRad - Fail Safe® Thermostat
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Old 09-18-2011, 07:28 PM   #15
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Jack the back of the Jeep up a foot or two and then unscrew the temperature guage sending unit one the back of the engine. All the air in the cooling system will be pushed out.
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Old 09-18-2011, 08:27 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funjeeper69 View Post
My son had the same problem. The water pump was not showing signs of being bad. BUT the fins on the shaft was gone as in worn off. So it could not pump the coolant thur the engine. Replaced the water pump and all is fine. KEEP IT COOL

I was going to suggest the water pump as well.
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Old 09-18-2011, 09:01 PM   #17
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I had that same issue... After mudding last night found myself overheating... I replace the retarded and flush the system today, but the system overheated at idle now rather than when I'm just driving it... Def think its the water pump (only other part in the system) and the fact that it only overheated after a few minutes idling. All the parts are pretty inexpensive so (pump $30, tstat $11, gaskets $5) I just wish I did the pump while I already had the system drained just hope it solves the problem lol trail ride coming up this weekend lol
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Old 09-18-2011, 09:02 PM   #18
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Retarded = thermostat... Damn autospell!
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:26 AM   #19
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Jack the back of the Jeep up a foot or two and then unscrew the temperature guage sending unit one the back of the engine. All the air in the cooling system will be pushed out.

A question about this method, do you jack the truck up, remove the sending unit then run the engine? I heard about removing the senging unit, but looking at it it semed like it would still leave an air pocket, I didnt htink about jacking up the rear.

I replaced my thermostat last night, all i did was replace it, refill the radiator. I drove the truck, it got to about 190, then the temp dropped down to like 130 ish. Seemed like to big of a drop so i think thee must be air somewhere. When i got home, i opened the cap and really weasnt able to add more antifreeze. When I used to work on toyotas alot, this method worked. Just refil, drive around and add a bit more. i would do it maybe 2 or 3 times and it was all good. The jeep just seems different.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:31 AM   #20
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just a thought and not meant as an insult , but is the thermostat installed the right direction
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Old 01-05-2012, 12:07 PM   #21
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just a thought and not meant as an insult , but is the thermostat installed the right direction
Yeah, I thought of the same thing, its easy to do
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Old 01-05-2012, 07:39 PM   #22
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Thermostat only fits in one way.
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Old 01-05-2012, 08:43 PM   #23
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can you remove the cap, start the engine and look in to see if water is moving? That would tell you if the pump is moving water.

Just guessing here. Was also gonna suggest just removing the thermostat from the system to check if it was bad.
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Old 01-05-2012, 09:26 PM   #24
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You said you replaced the water outlet? I had this problem and kept on messing with it until I blew a head gasket. It ended up being the water outlet was plugged up out of the box. They didn't knock the casting out on the small opening. I found this too late by putting a screw driver in there. I was very mad, and even madder when Advance Auto would not make it good. That cheap part cost me a lot of money.......I don't buy from there anymore. You may want to atleast try if you are still hunting for the problem
Good luck
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Old 01-06-2012, 12:13 AM   #25
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If I may ask what Led You to change all these things, was it running HOT before? it already have a Blown Head Gasket,

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