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Old 02-26-2011, 05:33 AM   #1
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How to bleed my clutch Be spacific.

My clutch was giving me trouble and I tried to bleed it and it got worse. Now I got no clutch pedal. I went to auto parts place thinking it was the clutch master cylinder. The guy at the parts store said we were bleeding the clutch incorrectly. He said you only depress the clutch pedal 1/2 way down when you crack the bleeder open then close. The Haynes manual doesn't mention this 1/2 way method at all.

Anyone want to break the tie???????

Thanks for the info. Trying to get it fixed this morning.

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Old 02-26-2011, 07:43 AM   #2
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What year ? Bleeding a clutch I just like bleeding breaks use the same method but.... try opening the bleeder then pressing the pedal down to get fluid all the way through then close the bleeder and let your foot up until a steady stream of fluid gets through then continue bleeding normally

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Old 02-26-2011, 07:57 AM   #3
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it depends on what you are using. The safest way is to get some tubing to attach to the bleeder screw end. Fish tank air line works really well, especially the softer more flexible stuff. You also want a jar I find a large CLEAN Ragu jar work well.

Fill the jar with at least an inch or two of brake fluid. The end of the hose needs to be covered.

When I did mine I had my wife push on the pedal, not too hard, then opened the screw. She would tell me when the pedal got down to the 3/4, or the master cylinder dropped past the Min line.then I would tighten the screw and she would let up on the pedal. She would fill the master to the max line and we would repeat.

It is Very Important to keep the Master Cylinder full enough that is the big mistake I s most people make, especially if they are soloing it.

We continued this until no bubbles came out.

if you go all the way to the floor, you will lose pressure.

The reason for the jar is just in case the assistant slips on the pedal and lets up, it won't suck up air. it the Chilton method it is required because they are loosening the screw with no pressure behind it.
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Old 02-26-2011, 11:36 AM   #4
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Thanks guys for the reinforcement of what I thought is the correct method. I replaced the MC and only took 3 pumps of the pedal to get a nice firm functioning clutch pedal.
Thanks for the replies. Awesome site!

Rich
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Old 02-26-2011, 12:05 PM   #5
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Master cylinder is a sneaky one because it leaks inside the car usually not in the engine compartment.
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Old 02-26-2011, 01:27 PM   #6
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Mine leaked inside the truck I could tell immediately bc the pedal would fade if u put a slight amount of pressure against the pedal
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Old 08-03-2011, 04:16 AM   #7
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If its the 94 YJ, the master cylinder and lines are all sealed. There is no valve to bleed!! If you figure it out let me know, I'm now having same problem.
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Old 08-03-2011, 10:41 AM   #8
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I just replaced the master cyl on my 94 renegade. i pre-serviced the cyl then installed it. no bleeding required. yes, the master can be replaced without replacing the whole sheebang.
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Old 08-03-2011, 10:59 AM   #9
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Just replaced mine a couple weeks ago. Mine didn't leak at all. The MC doesn't have to leak to be bad. If the plunger seal is gone it won't hold pressure. I bench bled mine first. The existing line was full of fluid so there was no need to bleed it...no air introduced into the system.
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Old 08-03-2011, 11:31 AM   #10
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hey Glenn, can brake calipers be done the same way?
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TREAT EVERY STRESSFUL SITUATION AS A DOG WOULD.
IF YOU CAN'T EAT IT OR PLAY WITH IT,
JUST PEE ON IT AND WALK AWAY.
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Old 08-04-2011, 07:11 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NAVYCHIEF View Post
hey Glenn, can brake calipers be done the same way?
I'd say no only because there is really no way to "bench" service it. The clutch and brake MCs are easy to bleed using the pedal rod and a piece of plastic tubing. I did the same when I swapped out my brake master cylinder and booster with an 06 setup from a TJ.

Calipers I've always bled in the traditional manner.

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