I just finished the Nutter Bypass on my 89/4.2 and I learned that it has been Nuttered before. I have been trying to find someone that pulled their excess wiring after the Nutter to try to get some of the factory plugs and ignition module to make things look better under the hood. As I was working I noticed the wires were the same as the Nutter wires and had been returned to stock. Well the Jeep runs different, but still like crap. I will set the timing again this week and look for improvement. I also pulled the Carter idle tubes and cleaned them which helped a little. I think the little Carter is still causing the problems.
This video is after the nutter bypass. It started idling a little rough so i did the team rush(kept using the stock coil). It still idled horrible so I pulled the idle tubes out and cleaned them. The video is where I am at now. Would anyone like to take a stab at diagnosing??
That's good for the Stock Carter, It will run better if you install an Stock Carter for an older 4.2, One from back in 78 to 80 CJ7 before the Computer, and it is a bolt on with no adapters or linkage change even for the Auto Trans, I run one one my 90 YJ 4.2 Auto Trans and runs perfect, but yours is real good for stock Carb. , oh my MPG are better too!
If you listen close you can hear it struggling to keep running while in drive and idling. Can a bad spark plug wire cause this? When I take my foot off the gas while driving and apply the brakes it will die unless I keep one foot on the gas. It has new plugs gapped to 35, new msd wires, dist cap, rotor, nutter bypass, fuel filter, and I pulled the idle tubes for a good cleaning. I also sprayed the base of the carb and intake manifold finding a couple vacuum leaks that I have corrected. What am I missing? The only thing left I can think of is the carb itself. Any suggestions? I need to find out what's wrong instead of throwing money into it hoping the problem will be solved.
It ran excellent when I purchased it about six weeks ago. I pulled the trans/tcase and replaced all the seals to stop a couple leaks. Replaced the alternator and then started to replace the timing chain cover gasket to stop its leak and discovered the harmonic balancer and timing chain were shot so I took care of that. It was running good with the normal cough at idle that it has always had. The last tank of gas I added some Lucas gas treatment to see if it would cut back on the fuel smell for the inspection that will be in two weeks. Ran through that and refilled with a tank of premium to see if it would have an effect on the fuel smell when running. That's when it started running like crap. I sprayed the devil out of the carb with carb cleaner and got about two trips to work before the crap running hit again.
There it is all out on the table. Has anyone been down this path before? I dread driving it now because I know ill be in the middle of a busy intersection and the power steering will disappear because it died and I have to move it into neutral to restart it making a turn with no power steering or brakes.
Mine does the exact same thing and I have a weber carb.... I've read on this forum that the HEI distributor upgrade with a motorcraft 2150 carb will solve the problem so I just ordered my HEI distributor
Well I let the Heep sit for a couple days and decided to mess with it little more tonight. I messed with the timing some more and for some reason it started running pretty good. It doesn't have the smoothest idle in the world but it's good considering its a 4.2 with a carter. Most importantly it didnt die while I went for a test drive. It idles about 700 rpm in Park and about 400-500 in gear. It is idling so low in gear that I thought it died a couple times but I looked at the gauge and it was still running. I started with the timing at 8* and changed to 10*. It seems to run a little better at 10. It's hard to believe a slight timing change made such a difference. I believe it was a combo of it all. I will venture further from the house tomorrow and put it to the real test.