I'm having some issues with my YJ and have been for a while.
I went mudding one day and when I got back on the road, it's grinds when trying to put in Reverse. Sometimes it'll work good, sometimes you can't put it into 2nd, 3rd, 4th, or 5th without it grinding. I'm afraid I'm gonna chip a tooth if I keep driving it like this and will cause the tranmission to be destroyed.
It must be the synchronizer not slowing down the gears.
I've rebuilt fourwheelers before, but nothing with transmissions.
However, I feel comfortable to try to rebuilt it. I have a budget of $500. I don't want to risk buying a broken transmission on craigslist.
This mostly sounds like a clutch issue. If you're set on a rebuild, you'll have a hard time without a press. The synchronizer hubs are near impossible to remove without one. Also, measuring clearances with a feeler gauge is a skipped step that can result in a bad rebuild.
Each gear has its own synchronizer, except for 1st and reverse, neither of those gears have a synchronizer on their shaft.
You have described a clutch issue. Possibly the slave cylinder is bleeding off internally and causing the grinding that you are experiencing. If you are tearing it apart, plan on doing a full clutch rebuild. That is the only smart way to go.
Each gear has its own synchronizer, except for 1st and reverse, neither of those gears have a synchronizer on their shaft.
You have described a clutch issue. Possibly the slave cylinder is bleeding off internally and causing the grinding that you are experiencing. If you are tearing it apart, plan on doing a full clutch rebuild. That is the only smart way to go.
I checked out the bleed line. (It's next to the one entering it. On my drivers side)
I cannot, for the love of god, figure out where the "bleeder screw" is. The end is a hole. There's a nut before that, then a coupling-like thing. PLEASE HELP. I plan on doing this in the morning.
The clutch pedal feels so easy to push now that I notice. I'm also pretty sure it's an internal. (I know I need to go from internal to external, but not right now..)
Pull the black cap off, hold the coupling and loosen the thing the black cap was on, while some one holds the brake down, then while they hold it on the floor tighten, not tight just snug the thing the black was on, repeat this while making sure the Master for the clutch stays full, do not let it run dry. Repeat till No air bubbles come out.
If some one can tell this better, Please do so, Thanks.
I bled it twice. (The 2nd guy had work today) Already, it's easier to put it in reverse. There's still a grinding, but it's a ton slower. I think bleeding it some more will get the clutch to fully come out.
I bled it like 10 times and theres no stream of liquid flowing out, just a tiny bit that rolls down the wrench. It was a lot better, but it still grinds in 4th when the clutch is in. I guess it's time for a clutch replacement.
I guess I'm gonna take it to a professional and get a estimate on how to get the transmission working smoothly again. I'm trying to get it in great shape for the Sheriffs-JeepFest
Did the kit come with the slave cylinder? That's kind of a big one when you have an internal slave
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