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Jeep Wrangler 1990 YJ Transmission Rebuild

3K views 34 replies 6 participants last post by  Axton 
#1 ·
I'm having some issues with my YJ and have been for a while.

I went mudding one day and when I got back on the road, it's grinds when trying to put in Reverse. Sometimes it'll work good, sometimes you can't put it into 2nd, 3rd, 4th, or 5th without it grinding. I'm afraid I'm gonna chip a tooth if I keep driving it like this and will cause the tranmission to be destroyed.

It must be the synchronizer not slowing down the gears.

I've rebuilt fourwheelers before, but nothing with transmissions.

However, I feel comfortable to try to rebuilt it. I have a budget of $500. I don't want to risk buying a broken transmission on craigslist.
 
#3 ·
I would start simple and drain and refill with fluid.. see if that helps before tearing into it.
 
#4 ·
This mostly sounds like a clutch issue. If you're set on a rebuild, you'll have a hard time without a press. The synchronizer hubs are near impossible to remove without one. Also, measuring clearances with a feeler gauge is a skipped step that can result in a bad rebuild.
 
#7 ·
Each gear has its own synchronizer, except for 1st and reverse, neither of those gears have a synchronizer on their shaft.

You have described a clutch issue. Possibly the slave cylinder is bleeding off internally and causing the grinding that you are experiencing. If you are tearing it apart, plan on doing a full clutch rebuild. That is the only smart way to go.
 
#8 ·
Each gear has its own synchronizer, except for 1st and reverse, neither of those gears have a synchronizer on their shaft.

You have described a clutch issue. Possibly the slave cylinder is bleeding off internally and causing the grinding that you are experiencing. If you are tearing it apart, plan on doing a full clutch rebuild. That is the only smart way to go.
1st has a synchronizer, only reverse doesn't.

And I agree with the clutch issue which is why that was my first bit of advice that seemed ignored in favor of a fluid change.....
 
#11 ·
I checked out the bleed line. (It's next to the one entering it. On my drivers side)
I cannot, for the love of god, figure out where the "bleeder screw" is. The end is a hole. There's a nut before that, then a coupling-like thing. PLEASE HELP. I plan on doing this in the morning.
The clutch pedal feels so easy to push now that I notice. I'm also pretty sure it's an internal. (I know I need to go from internal to external, but not right now..)
 
#15 ·
Pull the black cap off, hold the coupling and loosen the thing the black cap was on, while some one holds the brake down, then while they hold it on the floor tighten, not tight just snug the thing the black was on, repeat this while making sure the Master for the clutch stays full, do not let it run dry. Repeat till No air bubbles come out.

If some one can tell this better, Please do so, Thanks.
 
#31 ·
Just bought one for 150 and that includes a throwout bearing at autozone! Picking it up tomorrow morning!

So far I have the Clutch kit with the throwout bearing + the pilot bearing.
What else do I need to really make sure the clutch works perfect?
 
#32 ·
Just bought one for 150 and that includes a throwout bearing at autozone! Picking it up tomorrow morning!

So far I have the Clutch kit with the throwout bearing + the pilot bearing.
What else do I need to really make sure the clutch works perfect?
Did the kit come with the slave cylinder? That's kind of a big one when you have an internal slave
 
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