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Old 05-31-2012, 09:34 AM   #1
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Jeep YJ Bolts?

I am new to my YJ (well, to all jeeps!), I am noticing that the bolts for my body are starnge...at first glance I thought that they were removed with Allen wrenches, but upon further investigation I realized that they are "star" shaped. What tool do I use to remove these and what size?

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Old 05-31-2012, 09:41 AM   #2
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It's called Torx... You can pick up a set of at any tool shop, auto parts store or even at Walmart pretty cheap...

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Old 05-31-2012, 09:42 AM   #3
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you will learn to hate them.... get a full set max size is t-55
or -60 as I recall for the bumper bolts

File:Torx-Bits T15-T20-T25-T30.jpg - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:43 AM   #4
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They are Torx bolts. There are multiple sizes. You can usually get a set of bits from HomeDepot or Lowes for under $10 or most autoparts stores for a little more.
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:43 AM   #5
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I have decided to remove every Torx head bolt on my Jeep by attrition.... If I remove one, I put a grade 8 or 5 bolt in it place... I hate Torx... They always seem to strip out so easily, especially on an older jeep like my 94 YJ....
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Old 05-31-2012, 09:48 AM   #6
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Need a 'TORX' or 'Star' socket set.

The YJ sizes I've used go from T-20 to remove the sun viser to T-55 to remove bumper, and most sizes in between. I belive the sizes increase by '5'.

You don't need the tamper proof or 'security' type that are hollow.
The hollow type are weaker and you may snap a few on an old YJ.

I did find one tamper proof T-50 bolt when removing the roll bar extensions.
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:48 AM   #7
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Thanks guys.
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Old 05-31-2012, 11:52 AM   #8
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I thought I was the only one who responded.

Dial-up sucks!
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Old 05-31-2012, 12:00 PM   #9
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Just my 2 cents, buy a decent set of Torx sockets, don't get the cheapest set you can find, they WILL BREAK. And do not use security/tamper on non-security/tamper bolts, they WILL BREAK.
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Old 05-31-2012, 02:06 PM   #10
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Kobalt or duralast

I picked up the single units at Lowes (Kobalt) and Autozone (Duralast). They have both held up far better than what I thought. I had an old T-55 that I thought was extra tough. Snapped it right off trying to take off the bumper bolts. Got a Duralast (I think that was it) at Autozone. Ended up using a 4' extension pipe on my old 1/2" ratchet with a 1/2-3/8" adapter to break them loose. The bolts came instead of snapping the torx.
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Old 05-31-2012, 02:18 PM   #11
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... Ended up using a 4' extension pipe on my old 1/2" ratchet with a 1/2-3/8" adapter to break them loose...
Real men only use a 3 foot extension pipe.
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Old 05-31-2012, 02:18 PM   #12
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Helps if you use a little old tech device called an IMPACT DRIVER...... less snappage and strippage......WAY LESS.....

Impact Driver- Craftsman-Tools-Auto & Mechanics Tools-Auto Specialty Tools
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Old 05-31-2012, 02:41 PM   #13
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Torx as a fastener isn't really a bad design. For some reason, AMC/Chrysler decided to use silly putty instead of steel when casting the bolts though, so everyone strips them out with an 8" ratchet handle and some elbow grease.
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Old 05-31-2012, 02:48 PM   #14
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Quote:
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Torx as a fastener isn't really a bad design. For some reason, AMC/Chrysler decided to use silly putty instead of steel when casting the bolts though, so everyone strips them out with an 8" ratchet handle and some elbow grease.
damn, you got that right. I've about had it with the door bolts and need to drill the darn heads off now.
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Old 05-31-2012, 06:39 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Torx as a fastener isn't really a bad design. For some reason, AMC/Chrysler decided to use silly putty instead of steel when casting the bolts though, so everyone strips them out with an 8" ratchet handle and some elbow grease.
I think the real issue with torx bolts is that when you try and wrench hard on them, the torx bit does not sit level in the bolt head, rather, it ends up tilting to one side as you apply more force. You can fix this by pushing directly the socket into the torx bolt while turning the wrench, but that can be extremely difficult with only one set of hands. That is why they get stripped, an uneven force is being applied at it tears out one side and the torx bit doesn't sit level in the bolt head. With regular bolts where you are grabbing onto the outside of them, the socket stays level and applies an even distribution of force around the bolt.
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:40 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iceweasle33 View Post
I have decided to remove every Torx head bolt on my Jeep by attrition.... If I remove one, I put a grade 8 or 5 bolt in it place... I hate Torx... They always seem to strip out so easily, especially on an older jeep like my 94 YJ....
AMEN BROTHER!!!!
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:30 PM   #17
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wish the Impact would have worked

I tried my Chicago Pneumatic, 1/2" impact at 125PSI several times and it wouldn't begin to budge 3 of them. It did break 1 loose. And I have had it snap off 3/8" bolts without a twinge.

Actually I only used 36" of it. It is a pipe bender but doubled as an extension. They really popped when they finally did break loose.
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Old 06-01-2012, 06:09 AM   #18
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The real problem with these is the person who had the jeep b4 U didnt take the time to remove them correctly..
BTW OP,get a good angle grinder and ALOT of cut off disks,your gonna need them lol
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Old 06-01-2012, 06:36 AM   #19
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Old 06-01-2012, 07:39 AM   #20
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paint

Another issue is that they are typically painted over. That causes the indents to fill with paint and doesn't allow the torx wrench to fit fully into the head. Best to clean them out as good as possible BEFORE rounding off the edges.
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Old 06-01-2012, 08:07 AM   #21
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ok, as far as pushing on them... nope. We used a breaker bar, pushing straight onto the bolt and slowly putting pressure to turn and wam! there goes the edges of the torx screw like silly putty.

now, the paint in the bottom... thats most likely my prob. with my door ones. I'll bet if I strip that paint out of there it will sit deep enough to crack 'em loose. These particular doors were stock, the re-painted again. At least a few coats of paint in there.

Good call.
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:35 AM   #22
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I am telling you guys...... use an impact driver..... it solves every issue you are discussing here...... I have yet to strip out a head....... I HAVE busted a few off, but that would have happened no matter the drive head......
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Old 06-01-2012, 12:37 PM   #23
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ok, as far as pushing on them... nope. We used a breaker bar, pushing straight onto the bolt and slowly putting pressure to turn and wam! there goes the edges of the torx screw like silly putty.

now, the paint in the bottom... thats most likely my prob. with my door ones. I'll bet if I strip that paint out of there it will sit deep enough to crack 'em loose. These particular doors were stock, the re-painted again. At least a few coats of paint in there.

Good call.
Well you definitely do not want to "slowly" try and turn a stuck bolt, the metal begins to heat up and yield and then gives way the longer you apply force to it, working up to X amount of torque slowly is BAD, you want to apply X amount of force instantaneously and for a very short amount of time as to not damage the bolt. That goes back to the usefulness of an impact driver, you want to apply quick bursts of force to break the bond between the bolt and the hole it is in.
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Old 06-01-2012, 01:02 PM   #24
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Most of them are T40 Torx. I have been through several!
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Old 06-01-2012, 01:13 PM   #25
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my doors ones are so jammed, I had one twist the torx bit! Neither stripped, the bit is still good and has a twist to it, almost 90 degrees.

my next step is to pull the doors off, set 'em flat on their backs, put a drop of paint remover on each bolt, scrape the paint out, then use a brand new T40 on the impact gun. I'll also be sure its straight on before pulling the trigger to try and bump them loose.
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Old 06-01-2012, 01:26 PM   #26
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^^pop the door panels off and spray the backside with some lube
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Old 06-01-2012, 01:36 PM   #27
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^^pop the door panels off and spray the backside with some lube
OMG that is an awesome idea. The insides pop right off as well and I'll bet I can see the back of the bracket where they thread in.

THANKS!!!
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Old 06-01-2012, 01:43 PM   #28
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anytime
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Old 06-01-2012, 06:34 PM   #29
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OMG that is an awesome idea. The insides pop right off as well and I'll bet I can see the back of the bracket where they thread in.

THANKS!!!

Heat them up as well, you can get a cheap heat gun for 10-15 bucks. Most people completely overlook using heat to free a stuck bolt, but it can really help sometimes.

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